Hi Adrian, you're right, the Pentax lens is just not sharp enough. I don't think lack of a steady hand is the problem, I know that because I've used this setup on a solid surface, not hand held and the detail is no better than the shots posted here. The Pentax lens lacks the resolution required, but it's a good experiment and proves to me that the butchered zoom works. Of course, you already knew that but I had to prove it to myself.

What do you think of the lighting?

Regards
David

Have you tried removing the SD Card and using just this to upload your images? It may be that the USB connection on the camera is getting a bit worn.

Regards
David

OK, so I've had another practice in the garden this evening with the zoom set at F32 - boy this makes a massive difference. Here are the results, again with the Pentax-A 50mm F1.7:













These insects are very tiny indeed, the flies probably 3mm or so long.

Regards
David

Thanks to Neil (darkskies), Charlotte and Adrian (Dr O) for this superb thread.

I've now managed to buy a Pentax FA 28-80 F3.5-4.7 and remove all the elements. This was quite a task, unknown to me the 28-80 seems to have a lot more elements than the 35-80 Neil mentioned, and there is no plastic in the end of the zoom, all the front elements (3 sets of them) are embedded in aluminium housings which took some getting out. There was also a clear glass section in front of the main front element, presumably this is protection, but this is also embedded in aluminium and I had to smash it to get it out.

The rear set of elements is accessible by removing the lens mount and actually comes out quite easily once the mount and all the gubbins are out of the way. If anyone else attempts this, be sure to do it on a tray so you don't lose any bits and also be sure to remember where all the springs and other bits go, otherwise you won't get it back together in a working state.

I've now got a completely empty tube with a working aperture and can mount a reversed lens on the front. I've ordered a Nikkor 50mm F2.8 EL lens from ebay. If anyone wants to go down this route, look out for the 'N' versions of this lens, these are the later ones produced after 1979 that have higher resolution, less distortion and multi-coated lens elements.

While I wait for the Nikkor to arrive, I've been trying out the butchered zoom with a Pentax-A 50mm F1.7. Results have demonstrated that this lens is not sharp enough to produce the same quality of shots posted by Neil, Charlotte and Adrian. I will wait for the Nikkor before trying again, in the meantime, here are a few with the Pentax-A, the two 'live subjects' are at F22 and the two laptop stickers are F32, these have been posted to give some idea of the depth of field at F32. These are all straight camera jpegs with no additional sharpening, only a levels adjustment, re-sized to 1200px wide in photoshop.













To give you an idea of scale, the 'Memory' word on the laptop sticker has letters that are just over 1mm high.

Regards
David

Hi Andy

I would give it a wet clean, I think you are right in that someone has previously tried to clean and probably used too much solution. The pad you use to clean the sensor should be only very slightly damp, not wet, otherwise it will leave smears.

I have successfully used 'Pec Pad' lens tissues wrapped around the end of a lollipop stick cut exactly square at one end, this then dampened in a very small amount of isopropyl alcohol. It costs very little to try a clean this way as Pec Pads and the alcohol are cheap and the lollipop sticks cost nothing. Carefully wipe the sensor surface in a single direction, applying very light pressure. Make sure the whole surface is wiped, into all edges and corners and also make sure there is no residue being left by the swab, if there is any residue it is likely the swab is too wet, if so, let the alcohol evaporate a little, then try again.

Before doing the wet clean make sure you blast the sensor with a rocket blower or similar to get rid of any dust particles, this will avoid the risk of any scratching occurring.

I know there are proprietory solutions and swabs available for sensor cleaning, but I've successfully used this method several times with no damage caused. It's a fairly straightforward process as long as you take your time and do it carefully.

I hope this helps.

Regards
David

Hi Stuey, nice to see some wildlife from you!

The 3rd and 5th in this series are spot on, really sharp where it counts and full of personality. The second one is a bit overexposed so the feather detail has disappeared unfortunately, otherwise it would have been the best in this set.

Looking forward to seeing some other species!

Regards
David

Hi Neil, sorry I didn't reply to your post, you must have been typing it as I was replying to a previous one and I hadn't noticed yours.

Hope you got on OK with the K-3?

Regards
David

AV mode is just fine, if you need to prevent whites burning out just dial in an exposure adjustment of minus whatever value is required. I often shoot this way and regularly dial in 2/3 of a stop under-exposure. It's always easier to bring out shadow details than it is to recover burned out highlights.

Regards
David

These are great Alan, fantastic clarity. Are you now the owner of the 560?

Regards
David

Never really thought about it. I know what looks right to me and I just go with this. I think some of us compose things this way subconsciously, it just sort of turns out that way.

Most of my images are 'composed on thirds', my image making mind works this way.

Regards
David