The tripod head is rock solid, there is no movement in it at all. The issue wasn't being caused by deviation of the head as all elements of the image are sharp without the Astrotracer turned on. Also, there was no wind and the tripod legs were securely seated in the ground. It just seemed to me that the Astrotracer wasn't actually doing anything, the images with / without it were identical.

Cheers
David

Hi HarisF1

I was using the D FA 28-105 and also a Tamron 17-35, neither of which are manual lenses.

Regards
David

Hi All

Just a quick query from me, I was out the other night with my K-1, using the Astrotracer functionality for night shots. Exposures were between 30 and 50 seconds, on a sturdy tripod. I took one shot without the Astrotracer and one shot with it, for each composition. When reviewing the images on my PC the trails of the stars looked identical with or without the Astrotracer! Has anyone else noticed this, or has anyone got any observations on the effectiveness of the Astrotracer?

Before anyone asks, the precise calibration was successfully completed before taking the shots and my camera has no fault with the sensor shake reduction mechanism.

Kind Regards
David

Hi John

These are really good, I particularly like the tighter shots (the first three) and numbers 7,8 and 9. Well spotted and well taken!

Regards
David

It does sound to me that the camera is actually working correctly, it should reduce the shutter speed to a lower value if it is darker. The only thing you can do is open up the aperture as far as possible to keep the shutter speed higher.

Regards
David

You are tempting me again Mike, but I have to resist! Fantastic lens though, I'm sure someone will snap it up.

Regards
David

I think the above edit by David is not to show noise reduction, but to show the text added?

I'm surprised by the noise level if it's shot at ISO 280. Is it a large crop? If so, this would explain the noise. I find the KP to be a very capable camera that doesn't exhibit much image noise, even at pretty high ISO's.

The image is very nice, although I do have a bit of a pet hate of bird shots against the background of just a sky. This is why I don't post many bird images, I only feel happy with them if they are shot at eye level and have a nice diffused (non-sky) background. I appreciate this is extremely difficult with a Kestrel, but to get exceptional images of wild birds requires a lot of skill, time and patience.

Keep at it, you've got a great combination with the DA*300 and a KP, you should get some stunning shots.

Regards
DAvid

If you have some precision screwdrivers this is a repair that most people who are reasonably handy can easily do themselves. There are loads of youtube videos on how this repair is done and also the solenoids are in ready supply on ebay. Alternatively, you may be able to fix the existing solenoid in the camera by shaving off the shoulders with a small file, again there are videos on youtube showing how this is done. Taking apart a K-50 is pretty straightforward, as it is with most of the Pentax DSLR's, the shells come off easily when you've removed the right screws. You need a screwdriver that is a '00' gauge crosshead.

Regards
David

Hi Peter

I ordered the wool yarn from ebay, see link below for one example, there are other sellers that may be selling it cheaper:

link

Regards
David

Hi Gareth

Noticed this post as it's right up my street and I think I can help you. I wouldn't use foam at all for your rear seals. I've replaced hundreds of rear seals in a variety of film cameras and I use 100% wool yarn (black), bedded in with clear silicone sealant. This has many advantages over the foam seals:

- It doesn't compress like foam does, it has more natural 'spring', so forms a tighter seal around the rear door
- You don't have to be careful to remove all of the old seal material, just ensure there's a channel to take the wool yarn
- It is much easier to install than foam seals, just put the silicone into the channel and then guide the yarn in, using something like a cocktail stick, stretching the yarn as you go. It will seat easily in the channel
- Make sure the ends are firmly pressed into the channel so it doesn't pop out
- Leave to cure for 1 day before shutting the rear door

The wool yarn seal will not degrade like foam does, so should retain its light-tight properties for a lifetime. It also provides some resistance when closing the rear door, which demonstrates that it is sealing against the door edge. Be careful not to cover the gap where the frame counter pin is, otherwise the frame counter will stop working.

Hope this helps, send me a PM if you need any advice.

Regards
Davied