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Comment by davidrobinson posted on Sigma IQ Expectations... at 17/05/2012 - 18:22
coker wrote:
Good afternoon, David.
The lens is on its way back to me, delivery today.
I spoke to Chris who said a colleague had done the "brick wall" test on it, at various focal lengths & apertures. They consider it to be within acceptable standards.
He offered to send it to Sigma for their testing/thoughts.
I had, however, a project lined up for next week to photograph kestrels at their nest-box. Even with its shortcomings, the Sigma is the only tool for this excercise!
We've agreed, therefore, for it to come back to me for a couple of weeks, then Chris will arrange for its collection to be returned to Sigma for their examination.
We'll see how I get on with my shots, for which I'll use RAW, then move on with Sigma.
Thanks very much for your interest in my predicament, I really appreciate your support!
Watch this space!
Roger.
( P.S., my latest post of the water boatman on The Gallery does, I think, at least demonstrate that I know how to (manually) focus a lens! :shock
Hi RogerGood afternoon, David.
The lens is on its way back to me, delivery today.
I spoke to Chris who said a colleague had done the "brick wall" test on it, at various focal lengths & apertures. They consider it to be within acceptable standards.
He offered to send it to Sigma for their testing/thoughts.
I had, however, a project lined up for next week to photograph kestrels at their nest-box. Even with its shortcomings, the Sigma is the only tool for this excercise!
We've agreed, therefore, for it to come back to me for a couple of weeks, then Chris will arrange for its collection to be returned to Sigma for their examination.
We'll see how I get on with my shots, for which I'll use RAW, then move on with Sigma.
Thanks very much for your interest in my predicament, I really appreciate your support!
Watch this space!
Roger.
( P.S., my latest post of the water boatman on The Gallery does, I think, at least demonstrate that I know how to (manually) focus a lens! :shock
As yet I have not needed to use manual focus on a regular basis, I only envisage that being necessary if I should have the subject sitting long enough to use a tripod, although on very rare occasions I have used manual focus when shooting through foliage. As a rule you should get good images without resorting to this.
However as I have said before JPEG's straight from the camera with this lens are not good, I would suggest you use Adobe RAW editor every time. In my experience doing auto RAW to JPEG conversions rarely does more than reduce file size and gives a pretty poor result. If I find out how to and get chance I will post an example of how I do my RAW editing.
All the best David
Comment by davidrobinson posted on Sigma IQ Expectations... at 17/05/2012 - 16:40
coker wrote:
It's on its way back to Watford!
R.
Hi RogerIt's on its way back to Watford!
R.
Any news of your iffy Sigma lens, I have been looking at your recent uploads with other lenses and I cant see much wrong with them, I'm sure there must be something wrong with the Sigma and it's not just a focusing issue.
Regards David
Comment by davidrobinson posted on Sigma IQ Expectations... at 17/05/2012 - 11:54
We wait with our fingers crossed, good luck
Regards David
Regards David
Comment by davidrobinson posted on Sigma IQ Expectations... at 09/05/2012 - 16:30
coker wrote:
Thanks, David.
I'm ringing Chris at SRS tomorrow!
(Just been looking at your portfolio of birdie shots with the K7/150-500.........
encouraging & inspiring!).
Roger.
Hi RogerThanks, David.
I'm ringing Chris at SRS tomorrow!
(Just been looking at your portfolio of birdie shots with the K7/150-500.........
encouraging & inspiring!).
Roger.
Thanks very much for the complement it makes it all so much more enjoyable.
I know I bang on about it but almost all my shots for the last year are taken in RAW, are you using RAW?
I use RAW no matter what lens is fitted, my images are less than crisp with jpeg. I dont think mine would be anywhere near as good if I used jpeg.
With RAW the photos are often sharp enough, however you have the option to sharpen the way you want if as required. Playing with the exposure, black and clarity levels etc can also transform an iffy image into a pretty good one.
Regards David
Comment by davidrobinson posted on Sigma IQ Expectations... at 09/05/2012 - 10:23
Hi Roger
From the settings you used you should have a much better image than the one you have. I would not expect to have to use a tripod for this. In fact I have never used a tripod with my Sigma 150-500 and have achieved far better results at shutter speed as low as 1/200 providing the SR is swiched on, with apertures wider than f8 if lights poor. I have read that there are some bad Sigma 150-500 lenses out there so get on to SRS and try to get it swappped, after all I think you have tried every thing else.
Kind regards and best of luck David
From the settings you used you should have a much better image than the one you have. I would not expect to have to use a tripod for this. In fact I have never used a tripod with my Sigma 150-500 and have achieved far better results at shutter speed as low as 1/200 providing the SR is swiched on, with apertures wider than f8 if lights poor. I have read that there are some bad Sigma 150-500 lenses out there so get on to SRS and try to get it swappped, after all I think you have tried every thing else.
Kind regards and best of luck David
Comment by davidrobinson posted on Sigma IQ Expectations... at 08/05/2012 - 22:40
[quote:3496ace15f="Frogfish"]Hi David .... the 150-500 is not the Bigma (that is the 50-500) it is called the Bigmos.
I stand corrected, my lens is the 150-500OS. Sorry for any confusion.
Regards David
I stand corrected, my lens is the 150-500OS. Sorry for any confusion.
Regards David
Comment by davidrobinson posted on Sigma IQ Expectations... at 07/05/2012 - 07:12
Hi Roger
Looking at your recent gallery uploads it looks as if as in my camera if f8 can be achieved its the best aperture for the Bigma. It may have to be at the expense of ISO or worst shutter speed but f8 works for me providing the lights good enough.
For the last few weeks as light has got better I have used either
1) In medium/poor light PAv with aperature at f8 if possible, shutter 1/200sec or better if possible, ISO set to max of between 800>1250 if it does go this high noise can be a problem.
2) If the light gets very good use Tv or Av if you want to keep f8, manual ISO as low as you can afford to go for the situation, this depends on what shutter speed you can get away with or require.
From your recent uploads and the settings I would presume light was in short supply so they are very good considering.
The https://www.pentaxuser.com/photo/mallard--droplets-46584/large is excellent and shows what the camera and lens can do despite the large aperture.
I liked the rug bug https://www.pentaxuser.com/photo/grub----46717/large excellent.
Regards David
Looking at your recent gallery uploads it looks as if as in my camera if f8 can be achieved its the best aperture for the Bigma. It may have to be at the expense of ISO or worst shutter speed but f8 works for me providing the lights good enough.
For the last few weeks as light has got better I have used either
1) In medium/poor light PAv with aperature at f8 if possible, shutter 1/200sec or better if possible, ISO set to max of between 800>1250 if it does go this high noise can be a problem.
2) If the light gets very good use Tv or Av if you want to keep f8, manual ISO as low as you can afford to go for the situation, this depends on what shutter speed you can get away with or require.
From your recent uploads and the settings I would presume light was in short supply so they are very good considering.
The https://www.pentaxuser.com/photo/mallard--droplets-46584/large is excellent and shows what the camera and lens can do despite the large aperture.
I liked the rug bug https://www.pentaxuser.com/photo/grub----46717/large excellent.
Regards David
Comment by davidrobinson posted on Sigma IQ Expectations... at 06/05/2012 - 08:06
For ISO 800 with a K7 and the Bigma that looks pretty good, you didnt say what shutter and aperture you were using. Have you done anything to the set up to acheive this or do you think it is poor light thats the root of the problem?
I know if I try in poor light with speeds less than 1/200 and large apertures I will be dissapointed. The problem is the K7 doesnt seem to like ISO much above 1000 either.
As you say the sun must come out soon and when it does I'm sure you will be delighted.
Regards David
I know if I try in poor light with speeds less than 1/200 and large apertures I will be dissapointed. The problem is the K7 doesnt seem to like ISO much above 1000 either.
As you say the sun must come out soon and when it does I'm sure you will be delighted.
Regards David
Comment by davidrobinson posted on Sigma IQ Expectations... at 06/05/2012 - 01:13
ChrisA wrote:
The voltage from + to - was 8.34, and from + to T 8.33.
Immediately after 20 shots with the Bigma, also AF and OS=1, this had dropped to 8.27 and 8.26 respectively.
After 5 mins, this had risen to 8.30/8.29.
For comparison, a knock-off battery that's been in the camera for a few days, but still showing full charge, indicates 7.97/7.96.
I'm measuring the voltage using an ordinary digital multimeter which reads to +/- 0.01V, but of course there's no way of knowing how it's calibrated - I only have the one
It's not really evidence for an undercharged battery, though.
Hi Chrisdavidrobinson wrote:
Just to clarify in the case of of the Pentax battery I am fairly certain terminal "T" is a thermistor temperature feedback terminal.
Yes, based on a number of articles I've found this appears to be so.Just to clarify in the case of of the Pentax battery I am fairly certain terminal "T" is a thermistor temperature feedback terminal.
davidrobinson wrote:
I took the Hahnel battery off charge this morning (OE Pentax Charger) and the terminal voltage is 7.85v as is the voltage between + & T.
The voltage after 20 shots with the Bigma set to AF and Stabiliser in No1 was 7.82v across the same terminal positions. If you wait several minutes this voltage may creep back up slightly if the battery is healthy.
Ensure you dont short out the battery and use an accurate Digital meter for the test. Hope this is of help.
Kind regards David
Ok, I fully charged the Pentax brand battery, with the Pentax charger, until the light went out.I took the Hahnel battery off charge this morning (OE Pentax Charger) and the terminal voltage is 7.85v as is the voltage between + & T.
The voltage after 20 shots with the Bigma set to AF and Stabiliser in No1 was 7.82v across the same terminal positions. If you wait several minutes this voltage may creep back up slightly if the battery is healthy.
Ensure you dont short out the battery and use an accurate Digital meter for the test. Hope this is of help.
Kind regards David
The voltage from + to - was 8.34, and from + to T 8.33.
Immediately after 20 shots with the Bigma, also AF and OS=1, this had dropped to 8.27 and 8.26 respectively.
After 5 mins, this had risen to 8.30/8.29.
For comparison, a knock-off battery that's been in the camera for a few days, but still showing full charge, indicates 7.97/7.96.
I'm measuring the voltage using an ordinary digital multimeter which reads to +/- 0.01V, but of course there's no way of knowing how it's calibrated - I only have the one
It's not really evidence for an undercharged battery, though.
From the voltages you have given the battery sounds to be in good order but open circuit voltage doesnt always reflect the Mha capacity of the battery. Even so I wouldnt think the battery/charger are at fault. If possible I can you swap identical fully charged batteries with someone near you and compare the number of images they will take from fully charged to flat.
Sorry but I cant think of anything else at the moment.
Regards David
Comment by davidrobinson posted on How long will your battery last. at 04/05/2012 - 14:35
Thanks, David.
I generally use Elements 9, which has a RAW editor "attached"
Are such editors much the same? Are any/is one "better" than the others?
The comment re manual focus only really referred to my macro work.
Thanks again for your help,
Roger.
Not certain but I think the PSE6 and PSE9 RAW editors are similar, you may have more options especially when you have finished using the RAW editor and open the image in the standard editor for final tweaks and saving. I have to say even with my version the detail that is revealed by the RAW editor is amazing and this can ofetn be further enhanced using the normal PSE editor. I very rarley use any of the auto options except the white balance is often corrected by selecting Auto. Many of my images I leave with the camera RAW default WB, thats except for some landscapes which are often a bit too blue. If you want I can email you a PDF document of a quick RAW edit and conversion to jpeg I have done.
Regards David