Dangermouse

Joined: 25th November 2009

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Dangermouse
Well I posted that thread about Kodak Gold at Tesco, then went back in and...

They don't have any left!

At least, none that I can find. I'm wondering if it was a mistake and the stuff was only supposed to be sold via their website (which still lists it). I can't believe anyone locally would have bought the entire stock overnight!

I will be trying my lone roll of the stuff out tomorrow (along with my new MZ7), providing the weather behaves.

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Another pointless thread at 16/07/2011 - 14:29

Dangermouse
I'd sell the Super Takumar if I had to get rid of one.

I find the M42 adapters too fiddly and also my K-m's light meter doesn't like them - with all K lenses I get accurate stop-down metering down to f11 or so, with M42 lenses it underexposes regardless of camera settings.

When it comes to selling you will probably get more for the K lens as they are rarer. I seldom see many K lenses at all, and even then the 28, 50, 55 and 135mm seem to be the most common. Evidently those who have them don't want to let go (and I can understand why, as the owner of a 28/3.5, 55/1.8 and 120/2.8 along with 28-50 and 85-210/4.5 zooms)!

Comment by Dangermouse posted on SuperTakumar105 vs SMC105... which one goes ? at 16/07/2011 - 14:18

Dangermouse
Back to the other original question, here's my KM and its case:

[IMG]http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x21/Kingofthemountains/IMGP5239.jpg[/IMG]

These cases are not the easiest to lay hands on, but aside from the strap that outfit is correct. The lens is the 55/1.8 which was one of the kit lenses for the KM, although the components didn't come into my possession together. The KM came with a Spotmatic case, Super Tak 35/3.5 and M42 adapter ring. Said case and lens are now reunited with a tidy Spotmatic and original leather strap (a dealer sticker in the case dating from before the KM's release suggested that the original owner had replaced a broken Spotty with the KM). I already had the 55/1.8 so decided to track down an original case to complete the KM.

The K2 and KX/KM/K1000 cannot share a case as the K2's tripod socket is about 5mm further to one side than that of the other three. I've just held a KX and K2 side by side to check this.

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Information at 16/07/2011 - 14:07

Dangermouse
I just wish Lowepro would make their Lens Case 1N slightly taller. It'll take an M 28mm and 50mm but not either of those and a 135mm. The diameter is perfect and it has an internal divider to stop them rubbing together, it's just a couple of cm or so too short.

That would make for a very neat three lens walkabout kit, with the lens pouch on your belt holding two lenses and the third on the camera.

It might take the M 100mm f2.8 and the 28 or 50, I'll have to measure precisely by how much the 135mm is too tall.

Comment by Dangermouse posted on DA limited lens case at 16/07/2011 - 10:36

Dangermouse
Mine has the same thing, but I was able to reglue the little opaque plastic window using plastic glue (which wouldn't have worked on metal).

The part definitely feels like plastic when compared to that on my black Pentax ME (the black ones are painted rather than electroplated, I'd expect a chrome one to feel different). I think Pentax must have plated the plastic with a brassy substance first and then painted it black, presumably so it would look like brassing when the paint wears at the corners.

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Information at 16/07/2011 - 09:01

Dangermouse
My Super A top plate is definitely plastic, although the baseplate and camera chassis are metal. It doesn't seem to make much difference to their robustness judging by the number still out there. Find a nice condition one and enjoy it, they're very flexible cameras. Mine is currently loaded with Ilford Delta 3200 film as it's one of only four bodies I own which can meter that high (and its illuminated LCD shutter speed display is better than the KX/KM/K1000 in the lighting conditions ASA3200 film would be desirable for).

Pentax didn't bother marking the cases for specific bodies back then, as far as I know all the K series have the same basic dimensions (the KM and KX are both effectively upgraded Spotmatic Fs while the K2 is different as it has the electronic shutter). The K2 definitely uses a different case to the KM/KX though. I will double check the precise differences tomorrow when I can get my hands on a K2 for a few minutes.

The KM, KX and K2 all appeared in 1975 and (officially) lasted until 1977, although I know many were sold after that date with M series lenses. The K1000 was intended to be a cheaper version of the KM, lacking the self timer, DOF preview and second flash sync socket of the original it was launched in 1976 and went on until 1997.

I use the rear half of the case for the same reason, but also find it makes the camera more comfortable to use in cold weather as leatherette is much easier on the fingers than cold brass!

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Information at 15/07/2011 - 22:57

Dangermouse
AFAIK the top plate of the Super A/Super Program/Program A is plastic, while the baseplate and camera chassis are metal. I know I was able to re-glue the skylight which illuminates the viewfinder LCD on mine using a plastic solvent-type glue intended for ABS.

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Information at 15/07/2011 - 21:27

Dangermouse
95% here. I suspect an American/English communication error...

I know I get thoroughly fed up with Firefox spell check telling me that I've spelled modelling wrong. It has two "l"s in English. I don't care what they do to it on the other side of the Atlantic!

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Twitter spellings test at 15/07/2011 - 21:06

Dangermouse
Well I have the AF240Z so I can advise there:

If you set the camera to X, set the flash to Auto, and set the ISO and aperture to the values the flash expects, the flash's own light sensor will set the light output for the correct exposure (assuming the subject is within the right distance).

If you set the camera and flash to "P", the camera will automatically select the right aperture and shutter speed when the flash is ready. Aperture can be altered by changing the ISO in this scenario.

I've never used an AF260SA but the P setting should work in the same way. I carry an AF201SA as my pocket flashgun now as it's relatively tiny but packs a decent punch, plus using Program Flash makes life easier if all you want to do is take a photo in low light without fiddling around.

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Older flash guns at 15/07/2011 - 20:59

Dangermouse
I'm here!

I remember being told that the K2 case was different, although I haven't actually compared my K1000 to Dad's K2 to check how they differ. If you just want a case to protect a K2 then look at the Lowepro Reso cases, as the genuine Pentax case seems hard to find.

The K1000, KX and KM can all use the same cases (as can the Spotmatic). The original Spotmatic case is genuine leather, this was then changed to a crinkled pretend leather for the KM/KX (and a similar case for the K2) before a more squared-off case was offered for the K1000 later on. I have one of the Spotmatic and KM cases with the correct cameras in them, so I can post a photo if that would make things clearer?

The ME and MX were probably the last Pentaxes with metal top and baseplates, after that they began to use chromed plastic top plates and when they got to the P series both top and baseplate were plastic. I'm not sure about the LX though - I'd imagine that was all-metal too? The cameras retained a metal chassis for many years, which is after all what matters.

Comment by Dangermouse posted on Information at 15/07/2011 - 19:44

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