All Forum Comments
Comment by Dangermouse posted on old versus new at 04/03/2010 - 11:32
I generally use Ubuntu Linux on my Eee PC, with Win 2k on my desktop, car PC and spare laptop. Ubuntu is great if you want something that "just works", plus it's pretty much invulnerable to Windows viruses.
You can also run some Windows programs on Linux using WINE - I have Memory-Map, Spotify and RAVE (Land Rover workshop manual program) running that way.
You can also run some Windows programs on Linux using WINE - I have Memory-Map, Spotify and RAVE (Land Rover workshop manual program) running that way.
Comment by Dangermouse posted on New iM ac at 03/03/2010 - 22:12
I do think the K series glass tends to produce cooler tones than the later series, but I don't really see it as a criticism, more a feature of the glass. I've been told that the coatings on older glass "aren't designed for digital" but this really doesn't seem to bother my K-m.
What amazes me is how good the various 50mm and 55mm lenses still are, considering that they were sold as the standard lens with every 35mm SLR Pentax made for a couple of decades. While the 18-55mm DA L is one of the finest kit zooms out there it just doesn't compare to the old M or A 50mm.
What amazes me is how good the various 50mm and 55mm lenses still are, considering that they were sold as the standard lens with every 35mm SLR Pentax made for a couple of decades. While the 18-55mm DA L is one of the finest kit zooms out there it just doesn't compare to the old M or A 50mm.
Comment by Dangermouse posted on A's vs. DA's at 03/03/2010 - 14:35
pink wrote:
oo that takes me back!!
why don't you scan on a flat bed scanner and convert into Photoshop ??
James
You should be ok on a flatbed scanner with 120 film, I know I've managed to scan a few old glass plates that way which were slightly larger than 120 frames. Unfortunately they date from around a hundred years ago and as a result we've no idea who the people shown in them are, although the photos look rather like my lens test shots with a few people, a handsome clock and some unknown cupboards. They may have been taken in this house but we've failed to work out where so far.oo that takes me back!!
why don't you scan on a flat bed scanner and convert into Photoshop ??
James
Comment by Dangermouse posted on My first time!! at 02/03/2010 - 23:19
The age of the glass plays a part too. Modern float glass is much better than earlier stuff. I know my kitchen windows (approx 100 years old) baffle the AF on my 100-300mm zoom as they've got all sorts of tiny ripples in them.
Comment by Dangermouse posted on shooting through glass at 02/03/2010 - 23:13
iceblinker wrote:
Most likely. It's very easy to accidentally take lenses out of "A" (done it myself a few times, usually while changing lenses) and there are still a few FA lenses in production with a proper aperture ring. Still a bit baffled though - it doesn't actually damage the camera if you use the lens set to anything other than A, you'll just be stuck in Av or M.stu49 wrote:
Maybe it's to stop u accidentally taking shots if u only want to ever use the 'A' position !? Never Manual !!
I reckon that's what it's for too.Maybe it's to stop u accidentally taking shots if u only want to ever use the 'A' position !? Never Manual !!
Comment by Dangermouse posted on Think I bought a dud at 02/03/2010 - 17:34
cardiff_gareth wrote:
It'll work, go into the menu and into custon settings and there is a setting there that sounds like 'use aperture ring - on/off' can't remember what is actually says, adjust that and come out of menu. Put camera into manual focus and also in M. Set lens wide open so you can see out of it. Then focus, press the green button and camera will work out exposure for you, if you stop the lens down then it'll darken up the viewfinder so its easier for now just shooting wide open so its easier to see and focus. If you do stop the lens down then the camera will work out the correct exposure for that Aperture value when you press the green button down. You can also leave the camera in autofocus but the camera will beep and you to tell you its in focus. If its not in focus it won't fire off the shutter. This can be a little hit and miss though.
Maybe this question could be stickied as it can be a regular question sometimes :
So long as the lens is a K mount (rather than an M42 with an adapter) it'll be held wide open and then released to the selected aperture in M mode. Pressing the green button (+/- button on K-m) stops the lens down to take a meter reading, after which you use the digital preview to check how accurate it is. You will probably find that at certain apertures you need to tweak the shutter speed as the camera's idea of the correct setting can be a bit out. It'll work, go into the menu and into custon settings and there is a setting there that sounds like 'use aperture ring - on/off' can't remember what is actually says, adjust that and come out of menu. Put camera into manual focus and also in M. Set lens wide open so you can see out of it. Then focus, press the green button and camera will work out exposure for you, if you stop the lens down then it'll darken up the viewfinder so its easier for now just shooting wide open so its easier to see and focus. If you do stop the lens down then the camera will work out the correct exposure for that Aperture value when you press the green button down. You can also leave the camera in autofocus but the camera will beep and you to tell you its in focus. If its not in focus it won't fire off the shutter. This can be a little hit and miss though.
Maybe this question could be stickied as it can be a regular question sometimes :
In Av mode the lens is just held at the widest aperture all the time, but the camera will meter and set shutter speed automatically.
I used to use the focussing beep but I found it distracting - the green hexagon focus indicator is much more accurate.
Comment by Dangermouse posted on Think I bought a dud at 02/03/2010 - 14:06
Look at Slik again - I have an ancient Slik 500G which I paid £8.50 for in full working order, it weighs next to nothing and I've used it with my K-m and a 730g K series zoom before now with no real problems. It's pretty stable and folds fairly small.
It doesn't have a hook for ballast, although I doubt it'd be hard to add one. The base of the central column is a hollow tube so I'm considering fixing a "plug" in there to screw a small eye hook into.
I was in the same situation with only a lightweight but massive Velbon tripod, which is both a pain to carry and likely to attract unwelcome attention. That now holds a pair of binoculars aimed at the bird table in the garden!
It doesn't have a hook for ballast, although I doubt it'd be hard to add one. The base of the central column is a hollow tube so I'm considering fixing a "plug" in there to screw a small eye hook into.
I was in the same situation with only a lightweight but massive Velbon tripod, which is both a pain to carry and likely to attract unwelcome attention. That now holds a pair of binoculars aimed at the bird table in the garden!
Comment by Dangermouse posted on Any tripod recommendations? at 02/03/2010 - 12:40
My view:
Most of my lenses are old K or M series. I've only had one marked example (which I knew about before buying it). If they've lasted this long unscathed without protective filters then I don't really see why I need to add them.
Most of my lenses are old K or M series. I've only had one marked example (which I knew about before buying it). If they've lasted this long unscathed without protective filters then I don't really see why I need to add them.
Comment by Dangermouse posted on Filter for 16-45 at 02/03/2010 - 12:00
If that last one sells for the starting bid it isn't too bad for a clean black MX with case along with the 30mm. The original rear lens cap and body cap are included which suggests a camera that has been well looked after.
Comment by Dangermouse posted on 30mm f2.8 ! at 02/03/2010 - 11:48
Older zooms can be a pain as you need to set the shake reduction manually. I've seen some people set this to the shorter end of the zoom range which probably works on a short zoom (eg 40-80mm or 75-150mm), I generally end up treating the old zooms like primes by just using them at one focal length. Certainly the Pentax-M 75-150mm f4 is very handy for this as it gives you a 150mm f4 in a compact package.