I might look at making a diffuser - would greaseproof paper be a suitable material?

I finally tried my K-m with an external flash (an AF200T), and it worked rather better than expected!

The AF200T doesn't have a bounce head, but it does have variable power in Manual mode as well as TTL and the old red/green auto settings so it's a very good choice if you want a small, cheap flash. The interesting part? The red/green auto modes seem to work. TTL obviously doesn't as the digital bodies use P-TTL, but when I turn the flash on in red or green mode the camera sets the aperture and then chooses a sensible shutter speed. It seems to be about right for exposure although I've only tried a few test shots so far.

Weirdly my AF200S has the same red/green modes but only works as a manual flash with the K-m. I'm therefore considering looking for an AF280T as it should have the same functions but with the ability to bounce the light off ceilings or similar.

I just ordered a set of 3 tone air horns. I'm fed up with people completely failing to notice my car...

I play them when I get a chance - GEC A3000-P direct drive turntable, Marantz PM4001 amp, Cambridge Audio S30 speakers. The latter two were new a couple of years ago while the turntable is an ancient ebay find fitted with a new cartridge.

I just find that vinyl recordings are much more detailed than early CDs, although as it's down to the original mix the "remastered" stuff might be better. In the days before CDs sound engineers would mix the recording so that it sounded right on vinyl, which behaves in a different manner to CDs. Digital recordings can also be at a low sample rate - basically it cuts off any sound below a certain level to create a smaller file, which means you lose detail.

Do I use film? Well as I have a small pile of film bodies, ten rolls of HP5 and a daylight dev tank around I think that might be a "yes"!

"It's an Olympus though...who has that?"

Somehow I suspect that if you put whatever the top OM series was in his hands he wouldn't have a clue where to start!

The OM series were pretty good, although the OM10 I've used isn't a match for an ME Super.

I bought a near mint used K1000 with M 50mm f2 in the mid 1990s. It has since turned out to be an early example of the Hong Kong-made model, still all metal but with minor differences from the first Japanese-made batch. Aside from some rubbing around the strap lugs it's in excellent condition and has recently been fitted with new light seals, although it doesn't see much use as it's a bit basic. If I want a 100% manual camera I use my KX or MX!

I really must buy an SMC Tak 55mm f1.8 and some strap rings (if that's what they're called - I mean the big triangular things that the strap goes through) for my ES II then try it out. I bought it for £10 last year minus the battery cover, I've managed to bodge one from plastic sheet and copper tape so the camera now works. Although, that said, it doesn't feel different to the K series bodies I have which are a lot more flexible as all but my DA 18-55mm will work on them!

Exactly - I would only use shutter priority if I don't want it to wander from a set speed (such as with the aircraft example where dropping would cause blur but rising would cause frozen props, and the light will change as you pan across).

Looking back at the early semi-automatic Pentax SLRs they all offered aperture priority, but very few (even after the A series lenses came in and made it possible) offered shutter priority. Possibly a hint as to what people actually use?

You also didn't mention the bit where you smile and nod while being told some very strange ideas by Sony owners, then get on with taking photos as you always have done!

Today's one: apparently I should be using shutter priority, not aperture priority. See, call me odd but I generally find that you want to control the aperture in order to control your depth of field, and the shutter speed generally follows to get the correct exposure? Obviously for some situations you do want to set a specific shutter speed (such as photographing aircraft where you want to avoid frozen props, or in low light where you have to sacrifice depth of field to avoid shake) but for general photography controlling the aperture is the important part.

Am I completely wrong or are they? I also got disapproving looks when I pointed out that a Lensbaby might be a great toy, but it's the same price as two or three nice old primes which will give you far better results and will still be useful when you get bored with the funny effects.

I've said this before, but I find film to be an excuse to use the old bodies (which are so sweet-handling - an MX for example can't be bettered). I also find myself reaching for the Ilford HP5 if it's cloudy, as this makes the grey sky and muted colours irrelevant.

I know I could use the black and white filter on my K-m, but it just isn't as much fun!