I now have a Spotmatic, It's a rather nice example too!

One question - is what I hear about the light meter not liking modern batteries true (it came with an adapter ring to fit a currently available SR41)? The metering seems sluggish compared to my KM and seems to be overexposing by half a stop or so when compared to the KX.

It's just an expansion of an existing scam to a new site by the sounds of it - ebay have long warned about sellers offering to complete a deal outside their site.

Presumably this is a case of reputable sellers having their accounts compromised? That in itself is rather worrying!

I've been doing that for a while. Mostly as I never seem to see any lenses I actually want to buy at prices I can afford!

I've already got three dead or nearly dead ME Supers, so not me!

The usual faults seem to be either outright jamming (which can be cleared with a squirt of lighter fluid in the mechanism) or the other favourite of the shutter failing to cock when you wind on. I should probably bite the bullet and strip one down completely to sort it out, as there's a very good guide on the web covering how to fix them.

I mostly seem to have trouble with the self timer lever retaining screw. I've managed to shear two off and strip the thread on a third, as a result of which I now leave well alone!

Yes, the front element group is a standard thread (as opposed to the reversed ones found in the fittings for most winder lever parts).

For future reference, the finishing ring and the front element group both screw into the filter thread (which extends further into the lens barrel than you can see with the lens assembled). The finishing ring acts as a locknut to keep the front group from unscrewing itself.

I've rescued three 50s from fungus - two f2s and an f1.7. They all work perfectly well and take sharp photos - in fact I can see no difference between them and the mint examples of both I also have.

Another useful trick (learned recently while cleaning a speck from the M 80-200mm): If you have trouble with fingerprints on the inner side of the element while trying to refit it, put a blob of blutack on the outer side and use that as a handle. Polish the glass and use the blutack to drop it back into place - any marks left by this will be on the outside and can be cleaned off when the lens is reassembled.

I have a handheld meter, it does respond although I really need to calibrate it properly.

There is a 67 listed at the moment which looks like it has been in a fight, £21 with ten hours left. I'll see how much that one goes for I think, as it would look perfectly presentable with a new prism unit (and by the sounds of it works fine with a dented one). I'm guessing that lenses are the expensive part rather than bodies!

Dead easy to fix, the M 50mm is probably the best lens to learn repairs on as it's very simple. You are likely to need the following:

A lens spanner (basically two metal prongs mounted on a bar which can be adjusted for different diameter lenses)

Something to unscrew the finishing ring (the bit with "SMC Pentax-M" on) - I use the rubber strip from one of those "Boa" jar openers

Cotton buds

Domestic vinegar

Air duster/rocket blower

Microfibre cloth for final polishing of glass

Start by working out where the fungus is. On the three I've worked on it was partly on the rear element of the front group and the front element of the rear group. The front element group unscrews as a single unit after you unscrew the finishing ring, so start there as you can then strip the front group down further if required. The rear element group is best dismantled from the back of the lens - look for the metal rings around the glass with notches in. If they're reluctant to turn, try a drop of lighter fuel in the threads and leave to soak for a minute or two before you try more force.

Fungus can be easily removed with a cotton bud dipped in household vinegar. After cleaning it off, allow to dry and then buff gently with the microfibre lens cloth before reassembling. The air duster may come in handy here for a quick puff to clear any dust out of the lens - you will never get it perfect but a little dust won't do any harm. In the lenses I dealt with I simply cleaned the mould off, polished the glass, and screwed the front element group back in to finish the job.

You do not need to disturb the focus mechanism, so you don't have to worry about resetting infinity focus afterwards.

Do make sure you remember how it came apart - I tend to lay parts on the table in the correct order and just as importantly the right way around.

I wouldn't bother having it professionally cleaned, these are plentiful lenses and I doubt it's worth the money. It is however a very satisfying way to spend a few minutes cleaning one up and learning a bit about lens construction at the same time. I've since dealt with mould in a K 28-50mm and M 80-200mm, which were a bit more involved due to the need to disturb the focus mechanism to get at the fungus. Both take much better photos after cleaning!

Currently keeping my eyes open for a cheap mouldy 50mm f1.4 to rehabilitate, as I seldom see them in decent condition for £50 or less.

Yep, I somehow managed to add an extra "r"!

I've seen them similarly cheap on ebay after a brief rummage, my main worry is that I don't have a film scanner big enough for 120 film. Our local charity shops are a dead loss for camera gear, one suggestion I've heard is that they have people waiting for any so it never makes it onto the shelves.

Presumably you carry a customised version of "sunny 16" around to suit the camera? Just thinking as it appears to use non-standard shutter speeds it might be entertaining trying to use said rule with it.

I think something like a Bessa is a better bet for me, as they look to be available for £20-£30 rather than the £150 or so for the Bronica.

Weirdly, I quite fancy an old rangefinder of some sort too (been looking at FED IIs but the Parcelfarce "admin charge" fine on top of the import duty would make them stupidly expensive). I rather like the look of that Voightlander Bessar mind...