Too late to edit so this has to be a new post, but...

How tolerant are the Delta films of exposure errors? I'm attempting to learn how to meter by eye and HP5 is very forgiving according to the Ilford website (I hope - haven't processed the first roll yet!) but I've never tried Delta or Pan F.

I might try a couple of rolls of Delta 100/400 and one of Pan F then - the latter is a bit limiting in terms of only being able to shoot static scenes in good light handheld, but given I'm after 120 film it's only a 16 frame roll.

Ok, I've tried Ilford FP4, HP5 and SFX. What next?

I've looked at the Delta 100 and 400 but I'm not sure they're much different to the FP4 and HP5? Pan F does sound interesting although by the sounds of it you need a perfect sunny day to be able to make much use of it without a tripod. Any thoughts?

Unlikely? Only if it gets wrecked.

It's much, much easier to get funding to restore a tired structure than it is to convince people to invest in something which no longer has any glass and is covered in graffiti. Councils are also more likely to grant planning permission if the existing structure has been rendered an eyesore by vandalism than they are to allow a relatively tidy building to be demolished. Anyone else wonder why so many old warehouses in areas targeted for redevelopment mysteriously catch fire?

We don't have huge abandoned industrial sites here, but we do have a fair number of remnants of farm cottages from something merely in need of a roof, doors and windows to single walls with a chimney. I always wonder who the last person to leave was and when they left. I would guess many of them were abandoned after the second world war, when many farms cut down on the number of labourers and invested in new machinery. Others were probably the original farmhouse, replaced by a new construction with indoor bathroom and running water.

There's one known as Moel Prysgau which has found a second use as a bothy for walkers, this would presumably have been an overnight stop for drovers using the track past it judging by the sheepfolds next to the house.

It must have been a cold, bleak existence up there on the moorland, several miles from the nearest village.

There's also the world of difference between wandering through an open door/gate and breaking windows. From reading 28DL and other urbex sites if you're caught in most abandoned buildings you'll probably just be ejected rather than it turning into a trespass case. Criminal damage is a much more serious offense than simple curiosity about an open door.

I have no problem with wandering abandoned areas and taking photos. I have a major problem with people smashing things. This isn't "natural decay", it's wanton destruction.

Vandalism breeds vandalism. It's been shown in psychological studies that people are more inclined to cause damage to an area which is already run down. By smashing that window you're contributing to the miserable drawn-out death of the building, and giving developers an excuse to rip it down before replacing it with banal flats lacking in any architectural interest. They will be more inclined to convert it instead of demolishing if the building is respected by visitors, legitimate or otherwise.

If the voltages are safe and the hotshoes match then they should work in manual mode. I think I remember seeing some generic flashes which worked in a similar way to the Pentax Auto Flash system (where you set the shutter speed/aperture/ISO to what the flash expects and it will then use its own light sensor to produce the correct flash level).

The physical size of the flash is no guarantee of its trigger voltage by the way - the two flashes I have with lethal (to DSLRs) trigger voltages are both little cheapies powered by a couple of AAs. I get the impression that cheap flashes often didn't bother with an extra circuit and instead put the full internal voltage of the flash on the trigger pins?

The Bigma is a great lens but really not for indoor use or sports. It can struggle to find focus in less than perfect light and does need a tripod to get the best results due to the sheer size of the thing.

If you want to capture plantlife and sports I'd say to look for something fast. Either something in along the lines of an 80-200mm (ish) f2.8 (not sure who makes what, but that's a good starting point for research) or the Samyang 85mm f1.4 depending on budget. The latter is manual focus so may not be ideal for sports, but it makes a very nice job of isolating individual leaves/flowers.

Assuming the K100D is like my K-m then yes it will, I've done so on many occasions.

You will be able to use all the modes of the AF240Z as it uses the older Program Flash protocol which is supported by Pentax DSLRs. Simply select "P" on the camera and flash, when the flash is charged the camera will automatically select the correct shutter speed and aperture depending on what ISO you select (you can see what it will use by reading the back of the flash). You also have Manual and Auto modes for greater control. Given you can often find them for £10-£20 I'd say they're well worth buying.

The AF280T is more flexible but also a lot more expensive. If you set that to either of the Auto modes and put the camera in "P" it will function like the AF240Z in "P".

One thing though - a troll gets their kicks from posting a controversial topic then watching a forum explode. So far we've all been in agreement and I can't see anyone disagreeing with the premise that wanton destruction is ethically wrong (and illegal in the scenario described).