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Thanks Matt much appreciated
Comment by Clarky posted on Metz 45 CT- 5 flash at 04/01/2009 - 22:32
chirpy wrote:
I just checked mine again on all my SDM lenses and no luck. I get the MF symbol flickering in the viewfinder :Clarky wrote:
Chirpy, My Kenko 1.5 has the PZ designation and the power zoom contacts but still does not work with SDM.
I will experiment a little more with it and try it on my DA*16-50.
Odd. Mine definitely does work on the 300mm - I just tested it again.Chirpy, My Kenko 1.5 has the PZ designation and the power zoom contacts but still does not work with SDM.
I will experiment a little more with it and try it on my DA*16-50.
I gave all the contacts a good clean and still nothing. I wonder if mine is faulty :
Comment by Clarky posted on teleconverter question at 04/01/2009 - 11:03
chirpy wrote:
Chirpy, My Kenko 1.5 has the PZ designation and the power zoom contacts but still does not work with SDM. Clarky wrote:
It won't be cheap I would imagine. The Kenko 1.4 works with autofocus but not SDM. Not sure about the Kenko 2.0, I have one but haven't tried it yet.
As Mike-P reports the Tamron 1.4 works with SDM.
(Edit )Sorry mine is the Kenko 1.5 not the 1.4
The Kenko 1.5 does work with SDM, you need to make sure you get the one with the Pz designation as that model has the powerzoom connections that SDM uses. I have a recent one that works fine with the DA* 300mm.It won't be cheap I would imagine. The Kenko 1.4 works with autofocus but not SDM. Not sure about the Kenko 2.0, I have one but haven't tried it yet.
As Mike-P reports the Tamron 1.4 works with SDM.
(Edit )Sorry mine is the Kenko 1.5 not the 1.4
I will experiment a little more with it and try it on my DA*16-50.
Comment by Clarky posted on teleconverter question at 04/01/2009 - 06:59
jbrramsey wrote:
Thanks for your prompt responses. Indeed changing the lense seems to sort the problem so I think you are very much on the right lines, though I can't see anything wrong with the lense I was using.
There is nothing wrong with the lens. You just have to change the custom setting to what I have said above and it will work fine.Thanks for your prompt responses. Indeed changing the lense seems to sort the problem so I think you are very much on the right lines, though I can't see anything wrong with the lense I was using.
Comment by Clarky posted on camera not working/ Av flashing at 02/01/2009 - 20:47
You are probably right about those cheap chinese versions. I don't have any of them and can't comment on them. But the thread is about the the NP-400 battery and I am not convinced they aren't made by the same manufacturer.
Comment by Clarky posted on K20D batteries at 02/01/2009 - 20:45
Hi Jbrramsey welcome to the forum.
What lens do you have on the camera : Is it the kit lens :
It sounds like the lens is not communicating with the body. You need to go into the custom settings and change the (allow use of the aperture ring) too permitted. Or it could be dirty contacts on either the lens or body mount, give them both a good clean. cheers
What lens do you have on the camera : Is it the kit lens :
It sounds like the lens is not communicating with the body. You need to go into the custom settings and change the (allow use of the aperture ring) too permitted. Or it could be dirty contacts on either the lens or body mount, give them both a good clean. cheers
Comment by Clarky posted on camera not working/ Av flashing at 02/01/2009 - 20:29
Its not that difficult to do yourself, at least the front element anyway.
I just cleaned up Pentax A 50mm f2.0 with a large piece of rubbish under the front element, Wear rubber gloves when you do this. I used a rubber stopper to remove the front locking ring (thats the part with the writing around it) and a smaller stopper to remove the inner ring which locks the element in place. The element will then drop out into your hand. Give it a clean up and re-assemble.
Not sure about the rear element but looking at it, it doesn't look too difficult.
I just cleaned up Pentax A 50mm f2.0 with a large piece of rubbish under the front element, Wear rubber gloves when you do this. I used a rubber stopper to remove the front locking ring (thats the part with the writing around it) and a smaller stopper to remove the inner ring which locks the element in place. The element will then drop out into your hand. Give it a clean up and re-assemble.
Not sure about the rear element but looking at it, it doesn't look too difficult.
Comment by Clarky posted on Not just a Program A & a 50mm at 02/01/2009 - 20:11
johnriley wrote:
As mentioned the Pentax battery has a higher rating of 1620 mAh. The original batteries can be found for £30-ish if you search around shops, eBay and Amazon. The last bargain I saw was only £25.
Individuals decide whether or not they want original parts or not, but bear in mind a cheap battery that leaked would not probably find much favour with a guarantee claim.
You won't budge on this battery issue will you John As mentioned the Pentax battery has a higher rating of 1620 mAh. The original batteries can be found for £30-ish if you search around shops, eBay and Amazon. The last bargain I saw was only £25.
Individuals decide whether or not they want original parts or not, but bear in mind a cheap battery that leaked would not probably find much favour with a guarantee claim.
I don't believe Pentax make thier own batteries. My belief is they built the K10/K20 around an already available battery and simply get the manufacters to brand it as Pentax.
I have scrutinised (I used a magnifing glass)both the NP-400 and the Pentax so called original and find both to be exacly the same in every detail, right down to the mould marks on the casings.
I believe they were both made by the same company in Japan. But I will stand corrected if you have proof that states otherwise.
Comment by Clarky posted on K20D batteries at 02/01/2009 - 10:02
polchraine wrote:
Hardgravity & Hefty1
So, has anything arrived yet?
The suspense is killing me Hardgravity & Hefty1
So, has anything arrived yet?
Comment by Clarky posted on Anyone fancy their chances with this one? at 02/01/2009 - 09:40
shim wrote:
It shouldn't be too hard to adapt the cable release to close a circuit at the camera end, because it stops the lens down well before the shutter fires, not really needed if you can fire two releases at about the same time possibly using both hands.
shim
Thanks guys It shouldn't be too hard to adapt the cable release to close a circuit at the camera end, because it stops the lens down well before the shutter fires, not really needed if you can fire two releases at about the same time possibly using both hands.
shim
Shim, I currently use the 2 handed technique, and will look at making something to activate it with one action. cheers
Comment by Clarky posted on Pentax Bellows K at 01/01/2009 - 23:37
