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Comment by ChrisA posted on Second camera needed (Help required) at 07/08/2007 - 10:07
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Hi Guys. Just got a K10 after a break of 20 years from SLR slinging. WOW! do I like digital!
Quick question:- I always used to have a filter perminantly attached basically to potect the lens from physical damage. I assume this is still a good idea, what type of filter should I use on the DSLR?
Thanks, Phil
Welcome, Phil, and congrats on getting the K10D.Hi Guys. Just got a K10 after a break of 20 years from SLR slinging. WOW! do I like digital!
Quick question:- I always used to have a filter perminantly attached basically to potect the lens from physical damage. I assume this is still a good idea, what type of filter should I use on the DSLR?
Thanks, Phil
There are quite a few here that don't put a filter on the lens in case it gets broken, and then the splinters of glass trash the front element. I always used to think the same as you but now I'm not so sure.
Check out this thread:
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4880
Comment by ChrisA posted on newbie filter question at 07/08/2007 - 08:51
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didnt really test the 360 long enough
(Clamps hand firmly over mouth)didnt really test the 360 long enough
Comment by ChrisA posted on Major problem with Sigma E500 Flash on K10D at 06/08/2007 - 23:09
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I would have thought the K10d needed less cleaning than the Ds due to it's sensor cleaning ability but it seems that that is not the case?
It may be that the fluorine compound they coat it with makes the dust stick less well, so although the shaker isn't brilliant, it shifts more easily with a blower.I would have thought the K10d needed less cleaning than the Ds due to it's sensor cleaning ability but it seems that that is not the case?
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The best cure is to keep the dust at bay as much as possible. So always turn off the camera before changing lenses. Change lenses in clean areas away from wind and dust. Keep the camera pointing down to minimise the chance of dust ingress whilst a lens is being changed.
I do all this apart from the turning the camera off but, which I often forget.The best cure is to keep the dust at bay as much as possible. So always turn off the camera before changing lenses. Change lenses in clean areas away from wind and dust. Keep the camera pointing down to minimise the chance of dust ingress whilst a lens is being changed.
I realise that not turning it off means that if the new lens can't communicate the focal length itself, the camera won't ask you for SR purposes, but why has turning if off got anything to do with dust?
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I have cleaned mine once, when cloning began too take up too much time and didn't always work. There's dust on it again now but it can wait a while.
I tend to give it a blast with the rocket blower as soon as I notice some, in case it somehow sticks more fast if I leave it. No idea whether it would, but so far, touch wood, I haven't had any dust that won't shift with the blower.I have cleaned mine once, when cloning began too take up too much time and didn't always work. There's dust on it again now but it can wait a while.
I've had to do it about four or five times in the six months or so I've had the camera. I usually give the inner element of the lens a blast or two as well at the same time.
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Think there's a dust spot dead centre, but well blurred due to the aperture. Could be wrong, but there's definitely a bit of a shadow there...
I agree. A third of the way up the blue, immediately above the pointy bit of the main cloud in the middle.Think there's a dust spot dead centre, but well blurred due to the aperture. Could be wrong, but there's definitely a bit of a shadow there...
And a fainter one to its left, about 1cm over and down a bit. And another one half way up the flagpole, just a few mm to the left.
Sorry John.
Quite a small file though - are JPEG artefacts a possibility?
I really like it. The misty effect is very unusual, and the gradient of stone density decreasing from bottom right to top left is very effective.
And the long exposure disguises the foam a bit, which is a bonus.
Curious about the sparkly highlights from the wet stones, though.
How did you have the polarisers oriented?
And the long exposure disguises the foam a bit, which is a bonus.
Curious about the sparkly highlights from the wet stones, though.
How did you have the polarisers oriented?
Comment by ChrisA posted on Long exposure using crossed polarizers [img] at 06/08/2007 - 19:53
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I'm none the wiser.
ICBM stood for Inter Continental Ballistic Missile, and was a metaphor for George's inimitable style. It was a poor one, though, since an ICBM can only destroy a whole city.I'm none the wiser.
"A bit of a doing", is what Brian got. As in "doing over", "getting duffed up", or otherwise suffering a degree of internet GBH.
Personally, I'm all for straight talk when it comes to photo critique. I'll learn a lot more if I get it straight.
Comment by ChrisA posted on A reply (sort of) to G's ICBM at 06/08/2007 - 16:03
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I see the mistake I've made in the RIGHT eye (note to self: more self criticism required)
What I'm seeing in her right eye is a distinct angle in what should be circular, at the lower left quadrant.I see the mistake I've made in the RIGHT eye (note to self: more self criticism required)
It's much worse than her left eye, but there's something not quite right about that too. It's more a flattened circle than an actual angle, but to me it still looks funny - and since I look at the eyes in much more detail than the fist, it spoils the overall effect much more.
Comment by ChrisA posted on A reply (sort of) to G's ICBM at 06/08/2007 - 13:20
Yes the K10D has this except lacks the quietness needed as once again on Sunday my camera seemed far louder than my friends (Pro) camera.
... 18-200 VR .... Tamron 18-250mm ...
... what's the image quality likely to be like with lenses with enormous zoom ranges like this?