All Forum Comments
Comment by BigJacko posted on Votes Voting Competition # 0 (test run) - The Number Six at 26/07/2010 - 20:50
davidtrout wrote:
Neil I'd love to be able to tell you I have such lightening quick reactions I leapt to safety within a split second. The truth is Durham station is on a gentle curve and I was safely wedged against a fence at the far end of the station just a few feet from ther track. Because of the tele compression it looks as I was on the track.
David
Hehe - in that case, score at least another 99 style points out of a hundred, for the resultant effect! I had visions of you holding the camera out on a broom-handle or something, maybe getting the missus to hit the remote button. Sure, the truth is much more mundane, but the picture lies brilliantly, and that's half the art, ain't it? Neil I'd love to be able to tell you I have such lightening quick reactions I leapt to safety within a split second. The truth is Durham station is on a gentle curve and I was safely wedged against a fence at the far end of the station just a few feet from ther track. Because of the tele compression it looks as I was on the track.
David
Comment by BigJacko posted on No smokeless zone here at 26/07/2010 - 20:29
Just realised something, David.
How on earth did you take that shot without being flattened!
You look like you're on the running rail, mere feet in front of the loco. Even with a tele, I still can't see how you can be on the platform - you'd need a gorilla's arms! And you look to be too low to be on a bridge.
Please don't tell me you were in the four-foot and dived out at the last minute, Buster Keaton style!
How on earth did you take that shot without being flattened!
You look like you're on the running rail, mere feet in front of the loco. Even with a tele, I still can't see how you can be on the platform - you'd need a gorilla's arms! And you look to be too low to be on a bridge.
Please don't tell me you were in the four-foot and dived out at the last minute, Buster Keaton style!
Comment by BigJacko posted on No smokeless zone here at 25/07/2010 - 23:46
Sorry, T-T... yeah, Stef and I have wandered into pastures new... think of it as a 'future quest' - but yeah, for now, please ignore!
I had a look at your photos - some of them are really good. Well-exposed, photojournal style. No problems with the lighting or the flash, for the most part.
Interestingly, only the very last two show signs of the metering having been 'fooled' by the back-lighting coming in from that big window. The position of the window (and its height) will have meant it was sitting right across the metering zone ("pattern", in the EXIF, which means the full monty metering mode) - and this brightness will have made the K-x think the scene was brighter than it really was. And so, it exposed for less, and consequently the room to the right is a bit dark. A flash here would definitely have helped (though it was maybe a bit far from the subjects, and may not have lit equally), or a +1 on the exposure compensation would've done the trick.
If you don't want to auto-bracket, remember, you can always do a SINGLE one-off follow-up shot, with a +1 setting, as and when you feel like it. Let's say you'd taken the shot, and saw the window (big backlight - warning flag!) and thought "I'd better check that one!" You look at it on the camera, and see it's a little dark. Ok, so you need a +1 exposure to act as a banker... what to do?
Frame up your shot again, just as before, and half-press the shutter to focus, etc - all the same steps again apart from firing. Now press the AV button on top of the camera, and inside the viewfinder, you'll see that AV +/- logo repeated, over to the right at the bottom. To the right of that, is a number, with an underline on it. This time, instead of that number being an exposure under/over WARNING, it's a setting you can choose! Just use the e-dial to wind it up to +1.0, and then take your shot! Result? One over-exposed shot, to the value of one f-stop above what the meter THOUGHT was right (but which we know was wrong, because of the window). Check the shot in the camera, and if all is well, move on, job done!
Do be aware of the AV button's setting, though! I think it may (by default) remember the last setting you left it on, so wind it back to zero again when you're finished with the shot, or else it'll +1 your next 'live' shot, without you realising, unless you notice the +/- symbol in your viewfinder!
The benefit is, it's a lot 'cheaper' in terms of space-usage, than auto-bracketing all the time, and it's a tad easier to set it up for a 'one-off' than auto-bracketing is.
I had a look at your photos - some of them are really good. Well-exposed, photojournal style. No problems with the lighting or the flash, for the most part.
Interestingly, only the very last two show signs of the metering having been 'fooled' by the back-lighting coming in from that big window. The position of the window (and its height) will have meant it was sitting right across the metering zone ("pattern", in the EXIF, which means the full monty metering mode) - and this brightness will have made the K-x think the scene was brighter than it really was. And so, it exposed for less, and consequently the room to the right is a bit dark. A flash here would definitely have helped (though it was maybe a bit far from the subjects, and may not have lit equally), or a +1 on the exposure compensation would've done the trick.
If you don't want to auto-bracket, remember, you can always do a SINGLE one-off follow-up shot, with a +1 setting, as and when you feel like it. Let's say you'd taken the shot, and saw the window (big backlight - warning flag!) and thought "I'd better check that one!" You look at it on the camera, and see it's a little dark. Ok, so you need a +1 exposure to act as a banker... what to do?
Frame up your shot again, just as before, and half-press the shutter to focus, etc - all the same steps again apart from firing. Now press the AV button on top of the camera, and inside the viewfinder, you'll see that AV +/- logo repeated, over to the right at the bottom. To the right of that, is a number, with an underline on it. This time, instead of that number being an exposure under/over WARNING, it's a setting you can choose! Just use the e-dial to wind it up to +1.0, and then take your shot! Result? One over-exposed shot, to the value of one f-stop above what the meter THOUGHT was right (but which we know was wrong, because of the window). Check the shot in the camera, and if all is well, move on, job done!
Do be aware of the AV button's setting, though! I think it may (by default) remember the last setting you left it on, so wind it back to zero again when you're finished with the shot, or else it'll +1 your next 'live' shot, without you realising, unless you notice the +/- symbol in your viewfinder!
The benefit is, it's a lot 'cheaper' in terms of space-usage, than auto-bracketing all the time, and it's a tad easier to set it up for a 'one-off' than auto-bracketing is.
Comment by BigJacko posted on For help please at 25/07/2010 - 23:37
Correction to #3 above...
3- Cancel AF means the AF/AE-L button does not autofocus the scene. Autofocus is only available via half-pressing the shutter. Instead, AF/AE-L will put the camera into MANUAL focus mode (MF is displayed), and will lock the focus whereever you have it at that moment (for as long as the button is held down). Half-pressing the shutter when the AF/AE-L button is being held down will not trigger autofocus, until you let go of the AF/AE-L button.
Not entirely sure when you'd use that, to be honest. Seems easier to me to just flick the AF/MF button on the barrel/mount, if you want manual focus control, because you'd need to be an octopus to hold all the neccessary buttons down otherwise!
I did try the Custom Menu 5 option though (AF & AE locked together). That's quite nice, actually. You can do this:
1 - Point at subject (in M mode), looking thru the finder.
2 - Press Green button (to set up a balanced exposure)
3 - Half-press the shutter, and hold it there (to trigger autofocus and lock the already-balanced exposure)
4 - While still holding the half-shutter, spin the e-dial, to change the shutter speed, and the Aperture will automatically re-balance!
Alternatively to step 4, if you want to change the DOF (i.e. change the aperture) you'd insert:
3a - Press the AV button (to switch the e-dial to aperture selection).
Then carry on to step 4, except that it will now change the aperture and rebalance the shutter speed.
Nice. No AF/AE-L button involved at all (but plenty of others! :lol
You may even be able to put step 3a as step 2a (so you don't have to hold down the half-shutter and try to press AV, which is awkward). You'd just need to make sure you didn't leave too long before spinning the e-dial, or else it will switch back into shutter-speed change mode.
Lots of twists and turns to this K-x, ain't there? I'm more impressed with it, each day!
3- Cancel AF means the AF/AE-L button does not autofocus the scene. Autofocus is only available via half-pressing the shutter. Instead, AF/AE-L will put the camera into MANUAL focus mode (MF is displayed), and will lock the focus whereever you have it at that moment (for as long as the button is held down). Half-pressing the shutter when the AF/AE-L button is being held down will not trigger autofocus, until you let go of the AF/AE-L button.
Not entirely sure when you'd use that, to be honest. Seems easier to me to just flick the AF/MF button on the barrel/mount, if you want manual focus control, because you'd need to be an octopus to hold all the neccessary buttons down otherwise!
I did try the Custom Menu 5 option though (AF & AE locked together). That's quite nice, actually. You can do this:
1 - Point at subject (in M mode), looking thru the finder.
2 - Press Green button (to set up a balanced exposure)
3 - Half-press the shutter, and hold it there (to trigger autofocus and lock the already-balanced exposure)
4 - While still holding the half-shutter, spin the e-dial, to change the shutter speed, and the Aperture will automatically re-balance!
Alternatively to step 4, if you want to change the DOF (i.e. change the aperture) you'd insert:
3a - Press the AV button (to switch the e-dial to aperture selection).
Then carry on to step 4, except that it will now change the aperture and rebalance the shutter speed.
Nice. No AF/AE-L button involved at all (but plenty of others! :lol
You may even be able to put step 3a as step 2a (so you don't have to hold down the half-shutter and try to press AV, which is awkward). You'd just need to make sure you didn't leave too long before spinning the e-dial, or else it will switch back into shutter-speed change mode.
Lots of twists and turns to this K-x, ain't there? I'm more impressed with it, each day!
Comment by BigJacko posted on For help please at 25/07/2010 - 22:34
Anvh wrote:
Wow Neil you love to write
It's very useful and appreciated so keep on writing.
I've little to add and all I can do is agree with you
Still have some minor points/tips to think about.
Whoops. Maybe I overdid it a little there! I do like writing, as you can probably tell! I type very fast, so it comes easily to me... Wow Neil you love to write
It's very useful and appreciated so keep on writing.
I've little to add and all I can do is agree with you
Still have some minor points/tips to think about.
Anvh wrote:
About the bracketing, I don't know how large the JPGs are but a single RAW file has the range to compensate for -1 and +1 exposure (if properly expose) and you get the added bonuses of better noise reduction and changeable white balance but you need to know your way around the computer to use RAW files.
Don't get me wrong it's isn't a wonder thing you still need to get close but at least you don't need to nail the exposure like with JPG.
That's a good point. I tend to use 6MP JPEGs at 'best' quality, so a bracket of three doesn't use all that much space. But yeah, I really ought to investigate shooting RAW, and doing the exposure compensation from Photoshop later if needs be. Thanks for giving me an idea of something I need to learn myself! About the bracketing, I don't know how large the JPGs are but a single RAW file has the range to compensate for -1 and +1 exposure (if properly expose) and you get the added bonuses of better noise reduction and changeable white balance but you need to know your way around the computer to use RAW files.
Don't get me wrong it's isn't a wonder thing you still need to get close but at least you don't need to nail the exposure like with JPG.
Anvh wrote:
If you got the right exposure but for example your DOF is too shallow, simply press the lock exposure button. It's the button named AE-L AF on the top right on the back.
You can then change the aperture and the camera automatically change the shutter-speed to keep the balance between them right and vice versa.
Once again, the K-x is not quite as simple, straight off the bat. The AF/AE-L button only does FOCUS lock by default, not EXPOSURE. To get it to lock exposure, you have to set it up in the Custom menus, and there are various combinations:BigJacko wrote:
even if you then immediately change the stops up or down from there; one up on the shutter counteracted by one down on the aperture, and so on, is still a very useful tool.
There is a little trick for that to do it all at once.even if you then immediately change the stops up or down from there; one up on the shutter counteracted by one down on the aperture, and so on, is still a very useful tool.
If you got the right exposure but for example your DOF is too shallow, simply press the lock exposure button. It's the button named AE-L AF on the top right on the back.
You can then change the aperture and the camera automatically change the shutter-speed to keep the balance between them right and vice versa.
If you just want the AF/AE-L button to lock BOTH focus and exposure when pressed, you can use Custom Menu 5 (AE-L with AF Locked), and then the two will lock/unlock together when the button is pressed.
However, if you don't just want them working in unison, there are further choices on Custom Menu 10 (AF/AE-L Button):
1- Enable AF1 - autofocus happens if you half-press the shutter AND/OR if you press AF/AE-L button
2 - Enable AF2 - autofocus only happens with the AF/AE-L button (i.e. the half-pressed shutter doesn't trigger Autofocus anymore)
3- Cancel AF - If AF/AE-L button is pressed, half-pressing shutter doesn't trigger AF, but it will when you let go of AF/AE-L and half-press the shutter next time.
4- AE Lock - Locks the exposure (but doesn't do any AF locking on the AF/AE-L button at all, I think).
So, there are some quite complicated arrangements there - and choices to make because the button is shared once again, between several possible functions! I guess it is possible to emulate the way the K10D does it, though (probably just by using option 4 of menu 10)... but it'll take a bit of fiddling to set it up.
Having said that, it might well be worth it! I will have a play later and let you know.
Comment by BigJacko posted on For help please at 25/07/2010 - 22:09
Thanks for letting us know, Niles. I shall keep an eye on my shutter button and hope for the best! Good luck with getting yours fixed. Make sure they do it under warranty!
Comment by BigJacko posted on Shutter clicks twice at 25/07/2010 - 21:14
Just to flesh out Stefan's excellent observations on the 55-300 a little further, if I may:
For my money, I would not swap my 55-300 for a 55-200, even if you threw in all those extras above! I like the extra focal length, and the frame-filling capabilities at full extent.
My advice... go to a camera shop, and try BOTH on your camera. Make sure you look at full zoom on both. Play. Spend at least a couple of minutes with each, zooming, shooting, testing. If the camera shop isn't prepared to let you do this, then leave, and don't buy ANY lens from them! In my experience, LCE let me do this with the 55-300 I was considering (even though it resulted in no sale with them, because the price was uncompetitive at the time). I still have the test shots on my SDCard!
Anvh wrote:
The things they took out are.
- the hood
I would say you don't need this to begin with anyway (wait till you actually see some flare, then decide whether you can cope, or whether you really need it! I've not seen any yet on mine!) And yes, you can get various hoods, as described above.The things they took out are.
- the hood
Anvh wrote:
- quick-shift (with this you can manual adjust the focus of the lens even when it's on auto-focus)
But you can still manually spin the focus ring and focus yourself - you just have to flip the MF button on the camera body mount switch, and spin away! Manually focusing aginst the AF (if the AF is going to kick in and move what you did) is of limited use really, so no great loss here, imho.- quick-shift (with this you can manual adjust the focus of the lens even when it's on auto-focus)
Anvh wrote:
- metal lens mount, they replace that to a plastic one
To be honest, I had not even noticed! I had to go and check. My gut feeling is that the lens is nicely balanced, even though it can get quite long at full extent. A fully metal one might be overly heavy, I think. It's still robust, even though partly plastic - and most importantly (as Stefan hinted at), it's not the plastic or the metal that you (and the sensor) looks through... it's the glass! - metal lens mount, they replace that to a plastic one
For my money, I would not swap my 55-300 for a 55-200, even if you threw in all those extras above! I like the extra focal length, and the frame-filling capabilities at full extent.
My advice... go to a camera shop, and try BOTH on your camera. Make sure you look at full zoom on both. Play. Spend at least a couple of minutes with each, zooming, shooting, testing. If the camera shop isn't prepared to let you do this, then leave, and don't buy ANY lens from them! In my experience, LCE let me do this with the 55-300 I was considering (even though it resulted in no sale with them, because the price was uncompetitive at the time). I still have the test shots on my SDCard!
Comment by BigJacko posted on Best Lens for Pentax K-x at 25/07/2010 - 19:58
dougf8 wrote:
The less than symbol probably disappeared as it is also a UNIX redirect symbol!!
Close. The less than symbol probably disappeared as it is also a UNIX redirect symbol!!
The < symbol and any word immediately following would have been suppressed because it is the opening bracket of an HTML tag, which are disallowed in forum messages.
So how did I do that one above, then, eh?
Easy... just make sure there is at least one space following the < symbol, or (if it's essential for it to appear right next to something following) use the form <.
<difficult when you know how, eh?
Comment by BigJacko posted on Votes Voting Competition # 0 (test run) - The Number Six at 25/07/2010 - 19:18
Just thought I'd follow up on my purchasing experience with Simon, now that I am in receipt of the 50mm A prime, and the AF360FGZ flash unit.
What can I say. I'm gratified to discover that there are still such wonderful and honest people in the world - but of course, it's only fitting that they are Pentaxians, eh?
My father-in-law (who actually met Simon and handed over my cash by proxy) was very pleased to meet him, found him very friendly and keen to show him all the aspects of the flash and lens, and that everything was up to par. And of course, it was well up to par - perfect in all respects, and exactly as described. In fact, maybe a tad better than described.
So - gushing praise aside, I would have no hesitation in recommending Simon as a person to do business with. I am a very satisfied customer -and would gladly do business with him again. Only trouble is, he's just sold the K10D...
Thanks again Simon for a great deal, and your kind and friendly attention-to-detail. All the best, and good luck with selling the remaining few bits.
Cheers
What can I say. I'm gratified to discover that there are still such wonderful and honest people in the world - but of course, it's only fitting that they are Pentaxians, eh?
My father-in-law (who actually met Simon and handed over my cash by proxy) was very pleased to meet him, found him very friendly and keen to show him all the aspects of the flash and lens, and that everything was up to par. And of course, it was well up to par - perfect in all respects, and exactly as described. In fact, maybe a tad better than described.
So - gushing praise aside, I would have no hesitation in recommending Simon as a person to do business with. I am a very satisfied customer -and would gladly do business with him again. Only trouble is, he's just sold the K10D...
Thanks again Simon for a great deal, and your kind and friendly attention-to-detail. All the best, and good luck with selling the remaining few bits.
Cheers
Comment by BigJacko posted on All my Pentax gear now for sale as I'm switching brand at 25/07/2010 - 17:32
I voted for I-Berg, but it was a close call between his shot and Gwyn's. I am happy to see that Gwyn voted for I-Berg too, because now I don't feel so bad, and believe I made the right choice. If it's good enough for Gwyn, the winner, then it was good enough for me!
Seriously though, after MUCH pondering, I voted for I-Berg's because I loved the atmosphere; the rust and cobwebs, the yawning composition - all very forlorn and unloved, but the badge itself gives a nostalgic contrast. Clearly that car WAS once loved, but now it languishes in hope. Very emotive.
Well done all.