You think you don't have a problem
set the lens to the highest f-number and take a shot of a blank wall bit over exposed, the photo doesn't have to be in focus.

When you look at the photo all the dust and particals on the sensor show up.

It seems that the focus lies near the red fence in the middle of the photo. it still looks very remarkable.

Yes Simon that's a very fair point but I've printed some inlargement with several shops and somehow they all seem to have the printer calibrated differendly so don't know if you can always blame you monitor.
At home you've full controll so I'll keep doing it at home for that simple reason.
Also some users don't even have a decent monitor, I'm probable one of the few still working an a CRT. I'm still looking for a wide screen HD CRT but didn't found one so far.

I also just found what seems a good priting shop in Den Haag so will test them maybe. I hope they have some interaction with you so that you can first watch the print on a screen before they print it, they are decent in price with their pro-prints so we will wait and see.

You're right Gwyn, don't know why they took it out since it seems to work decnt enough to me. Not superfast but still it's better then nothing.

btw I liked how steady the shot was with the baseball game, the SR seems to work. Good you had some movement but it looked smooth and not jaggy surely if you consider it was with a 200mm lens so not something you can call short.

Remco I really don't doubt that it work it's just that at the momemnt I'm happy how my prints compare to the screen. If I would get a calibration tool for my screen most likely my printer will not be comparable to my screen anymore so I should need to calibrate that one aswell.
There are kits so if you buy a calibration tool for your monitor and printer you get also the things needed to make a colour profile for your camera.
You need to shoot a colour card and from that you make a colour profile, they are quite cheap I believe so worth the extra money in my eyes.

So you've a camera that capture the colours correctly, and you then have a screen that shows the colours your camera capture corretly and a printer that prints the colours correct as well. So going through the whole cycle the print should have the same colour as the real product.
Only if you can archive that I think it's worth to get a calibration tool, or else you'll always have a weak link in the cycle.

Mhmm indeed it looks better then I expected, it looks at least usefull though.

Ned Bunnel have shoot some videos with the K7, pleas enjoy.

link

Just watch it myself and I must say it looks really good and it seems to autofocus to me.
I only found the oragne cutting movie a bit blurry but the rest was great and the sound, sounded good.

Maybe but it gices us the edge right now with shutter release lag.
Also the diaphragma of P&S are smaller, those of SLR lenses are quite bigger so need to travel further. Maybe with some other technique it might work welll but not at the moment.

Great tip but i'm living at my grandparents at the moment

Thank you Paul for asking, still it doesn't make much sense.
£60 + vat will be €80 and that's almost 1/5th of the price... if i get one here i get 2 year waranty and if i have problems it's easier to deal with the shop. I don't see the flash shipping back again if I've problems. that would add £120 for just shipping cost... really not worth the risk.

I'm also currently looking in the secondhand market, like i said i don't need pro stuff and won't use it to make money since it's just an hobby.

It would be very helpfull if you can give me some other manufacturers that have good stuff.
I've seen some secondhand bowens come by, great stuff i must say but they are still over the €1000 so a bit over budget.

What kind of photoshop do you have, you need atleast CS2 I believe to let iit work with the K20D.
It's because the restriction of adobe camera raw, the newest ones won't be able to work with the older photoshops. adode camera 5 for example only works with CS4.

since it works in lightroom you can let lightroom convert it into TIFF or PSD so that any photoshop can open it.