Simon i've the K10D so it might be different.

Here the dial that has the P-shift change prefer default balance so to say. You can see that the dial effects the f-number this the same with all program lines, when you press the green button it will go back to the default value (balance) of that mode.

Normal - the camera will try to get the optimum aperture and shutterspeed
High Speed - camera will try to get the fastest shutterspeed
Depth - camera tries to have the lowest f-number
MTF- camera tries to use the sharpest aperture

With the K10D and da*50-135 and using mtf it use f/4 as default and not f/2.8 but i can set the number to f/2.8 so basically shift the balance of the programline and keeping -1.5 stops overall

Simon is saying P and SV mode Iceblinker so that means the Program Lines (High Speed, Depth, MTF)
You simply need to remember it.

You can of course stick around Bob, even without a Pentax.
Too bad though when can't enjoy your photos anymore though

just one thing though, the K-7 isn't even out yet and you haven't tried what the retail version does so why not wait 11 more days (hopefully) when the K-7 will be out?
Not to change your mind but just to be certain before selling all your kit, waiting doesn't cost money.
Certainly not with the recent Pentax price raise.

You will probable be able to get it cheaper in Spain
It's €1149 (£985) here in the Netherlands so that give you more then enough room for the grip and battery.

Also just spoke to my local shop and they think they can do it for €1099 (£940)

It seems it will be under the €1000 (£855) around Christmas
That is if there is no price raise

The shuter have two settings, half pressed and fully pressed.
When you half pressed it the SR will already settle itself and gets ready when you fully press the shutterrelease.

What I mean with the mistake bit.
if it has 1/400 of second to move a wrong way or 1/4 of a second it's most likely that it has more problem keeping the 1/4 shot steady.

With test you see that the faster shots are so good as evenly sharp with fast shots and with a bit longer shots then recommended you can clearly see the difference between SR on or off.
with very long shots you will probable move to much for the SR resulting in still better photos then SR off but they mostly aren't 100% sharp anymore.

what I'm getting to is if the SR can make the difference for long shots why wouldn't it work with faster shots?
It might even compensate you pressing the button

It stabilize itself before you fully press the shutter release (usually)
Also under such condition the SR hardly has time to make a mistake.
If it can keep the sensor still with long shots why not with short shots?

It will always engage when it is set on on except with delayed shooting and when using a remote.

Just wondering how it works with the stock.
With countries with the euro the price is so good as the same but the UK prices are now quite higher.
If the UK stock is the same then the EU stock (if there is something like that) then I'm curious who get the most out of the price raise.

Hefty I believe came with the solution to put it into the sun since the UV radiation would kill the fungus.
Don't really know how effective that is but try it I would say you have nothing to lose

Don't think so Roger.
link
On the body mount, the "*" contact is slightly recessed. On the lens mount, "*" is a small pin whose head can be raised or lowered depending on the position of the lens aperture ring. When a numeric f-stop is selected, the pin's head is lowered so that it does not make contact with body's "*" contact; when the "A" aperture setting is engaged, the pin's head is raised, and it makes electrical contact with the body's "*" contact.

Even if it is, the contact is needed for A lenses to work so the chance is very unlikely that that contact is causing the SDM not to work.
Everything is possible of course but don't think that one is it.

I also still believe that only the PZ and info contact is needed for SDM.
info contact to let the camera know it has SDM.
AND the two PZ contacts to power and control the SDM.
SDM is most likely a DC motor since the batteries deliver DC.
so one contact is + and the other - and if the motor needs the turn the other way you switch the polarities so that the current flows the other way and in effect making the motor turn the other way too.

Thank you Clarky, will give them a try at home.

isdky indeed the first shot looks very good!