Prefer the edited one too but now you have an idea what you get when using an infrared filter and what you need to do.

About cloning out the lens flare, I've thought about that but most don't find it distracting and you will always see that you cloned it out. Some things are better left alone.

It might be the way for you Davex but I've my pol filter on almost 100% of the time. The holder you need for the filter makes the lens front heavy and also longer and wider then with a screw-in.

Also buying a square system filter for just a pol seems a bit silly to me when a Hoya or B&W are better and just as expensive as buying a holder and a pol filter and the rest what you need for a square filter.

For saving some money you can buy a 52mm pol that fits straight on the 18-55 and use a 52mm to 49mm stepdown ring so that you can use the 52mm pol on a 49mm filter size.
The 50-200 and the macro are 49mm and also the 50mm I believe so you cover 4 lenses with just one filter.

A good read about viewfinders on luminous-landscape link
It seems the 95% coverage is a trade off for getting a higher magnification against the cost of coverage.

Edit: little typo

Only the high-end cameras seems to have a 100% viewfinder so it might be true. link

Thank you John that's the one

But really Neil use manual on the track and get the shutterspeed right to pan your shots properly.
When you have the exposure right but the shutterspeed is to long or to short, press the exposure lock button (forgot the name again :blush
It will lock the exposure so if you change the shutterspeed it will change the F-number properly to maintain the exposure, very handy

Thank you Susan, it's my only infrared photo that I like.
It's really hard to do a proper infrared with the K10D.
Here is the original photo BTW

I thought that a 100% viewfinder are harder to align probable since there is less room for error then with a 95% viewfinder and that was the reason why they use a 95% viewfinder.

Emma please do some more research since there is a big difference between a graduated neutral density filter (GND) or a polarizer filter (pol).

The square filter system like the Cokin are very good for the GND since you can determine where the transition (horizon) is since you can move the filter inside the holder.
For the pol I would get a screw-in filter they are simpler and far more user friendly. A Hoya or B&W are most likely also far better then the Cokin pol.

Thank you Mike I forgot the type
The MC4 PZ it was I believe or not?

I believe it works when you use a external flash as master flash on your camera regardless the ISO.