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Comment by Anvh posted on Adjusting iso with K-r at 21/10/2010 - 14:22
Pentaxophile wrote:
There's something else I might be tempted to experiment with in one of those chairs, but there's no wedge for it on the diagram
That wedge is for girls only There's something else I might be tempted to experiment with in one of those chairs, but there's no wedge for it on the diagram
Top Gear link at 1:25
Just the reaction of the girl is priceless
Comment by Anvh posted on Another pointless thread at 21/10/2010 - 14:10
The DAL 35mm has a very nice bokeh though, for the rest the DA35 Ltd seems to be better.
Comment by Anvh posted on DAL 35mm Review at 21/10/2010 - 13:57
Comment by Anvh posted on Another pointless thread at 21/10/2010 - 13:49
Hypocorism wrote:
Fwiw: I didn't grasp the point of Sv mode at first with mine but it seems the only way to get those finer resolution ISO adj numbers like 320, 640, 1250, etc.
There are other ways.Fwiw: I didn't grasp the point of Sv mode at first with mine but it seems the only way to get those finer resolution ISO adj numbers like 320, 640, 1250, etc.
in the menu you need to set the EV steps to 1/3th instead of 1/2th and then you can set the ISO steps to match the EV steps.
That way you get ISO 320, 640, 1250 also normally.
Comment by Anvh posted on Adjusting iso with K-r at 21/10/2010 - 13:39
bretti_kivi wrote:
to be honest, if you need to take 2 shots / sec, you either need to be running at 1/64 with good batteries or you ought to be not using flash. Those are the "cheap" answers.
With good batteries you don't mean Nickel Zinc batteries right? linkto be honest, if you need to take 2 shots / sec, you either need to be running at 1/64 with good batteries or you ought to be not using flash. Those are the "cheap" answers.
With those you should be able to run at higher powers.
With extra battery pack link
You probably burn out the flash quite fast that way...
Also normal rechargeable are faster with recharging then normal alkaline batteries.
Comment by Anvh posted on continuous flash shooting at 21/10/2010 - 13:29
You already figure it out.
Indeed it's 2:1 with the macro lens
Indeed it's 2:1 with the macro lens
Comment by Anvh posted on what macro lens?? at 21/10/2010 - 13:14
Mannesty wrote:
Your verbose explanation is also completely unnecessary for me because I was probably taking flash pictures before your parents even met. I know how a flash works, and how to use it properly. The OP however, needs some uncomplicated information to help him.
I know but you asked for a better explanation for the OP not for yourself.Your verbose explanation is also completely unnecessary for me because I was probably taking flash pictures before your parents even met. I know how a flash works, and how to use it properly. The OP however, needs some uncomplicated information to help him.
Comment by Anvh posted on continuous flash shooting at 21/10/2010 - 13:03
thoughton wrote:
Stefan I think part of the problem is that you said "Lower the flash output off the lens.". That's gotta be confusing to a newcomer.
Yeah now i see it Stefan I think part of the problem is that you said "Lower the flash output off the lens.". That's gotta be confusing to a newcomer.
I meant the flash not lens
Comment by Anvh posted on continuous flash shooting at 21/10/2010 - 13:01
What it means Peter.
I don't know what your problem is, flash output is quite understandable.
flash = burst of light
output = (something that comes out) production, energy, power, ect.
I don't think the OP is retarded
Just for you i'll "explain" my other two sentences to make it clear for you.
(Peter this is what I mean with lowering the flash output)
The flash hold a charge for one full power flash so if the flash fires at half the power you can take two flashes instead of one and if you use 1/4th of the power you can have four flashes.
Also shortening the distance between the flash and the subject reduce the flash output that's needed
With A mode it's the same but you need to input the numbers manual (f-number and ISO)
With Manual mode you've a simple scale that you can control; 1/1 is full power, 1/2 is half power, 1/4 is fourth power, ect.
Of course you need to compensate the lost of flash light/power with either the f-number or the ISO.
Changing the shutterspeed won't work because a flash only takes 1/100.000 of a second (if not less) so with the shutterspeed you control solely the amount of ambient light that falls on the sensor.
I don't know what your problem is, flash output is quite understandable.
flash = burst of light
output = (something that comes out) production, energy, power, ect.
I don't think the OP is retarded
Mannesty wrote:
If you mean "use a wider/larger aperture", why not say so?
That's not what i mean at all with that sentence.If you mean "use a wider/larger aperture", why not say so?
Just for you i'll "explain" my other two sentences to make it clear for you.
Anvh wrote:
The capacitor has a charge to deliver one flash at 1/1 power so at 1/2 power you can get 2 flashes after each other, ect.
The capacitor has a charge to deliver one flash at 1/1 power so at 1/2 power you can get 2 flashes after each other, ect.
(Peter this is what I mean with lowering the flash output)
The flash hold a charge for one full power flash so if the flash fires at half the power you can take two flashes instead of one and if you use 1/4th of the power you can have four flashes.
Anvh wrote:
If you shoot with p-ttl then use a wider aperture or higher ISO.
P-TTL is an automatic mode and is controlled by the camera so if you allow more flash light to reach the sensor by either using a lower f-number or higher sensor sensitivity (ISO) the flash will fire at a lower power because it doesn't need to fire at full power.If you shoot with p-ttl then use a wider aperture or higher ISO.
Also shortening the distance between the flash and the subject reduce the flash output that's needed
With A mode it's the same but you need to input the numbers manual (f-number and ISO)
With Manual mode you've a simple scale that you can control; 1/1 is full power, 1/2 is half power, 1/4 is fourth power, ect.
Of course you need to compensate the lost of flash light/power with either the f-number or the ISO.
Changing the shutterspeed won't work because a flash only takes 1/100.000 of a second (if not less) so with the shutterspeed you control solely the amount of ambient light that falls on the sensor.
Comment by Anvh posted on continuous flash shooting at 21/10/2010 - 12:06
in the Custom menu
1. EV Steps should be set to 2: 1/3 EV
&
2. Sensitivity Steps should be set to 2: As EV Steps
Those are not default settings because the default settings are always #1 as far as i know.