All Forum Comments
Comment by Anvh posted on What do you shoot? at 21/11/2010 - 10:42
I think the biggest defining difference is that Macro lenses are specially made to preform the best at close focus and they also have a very flat field of focus because of that, therefore only Prime lenses can be true macro lenses.
Zoom lenses with macro function only means you can focus close with them but they don't come close to what a real prime does/can in therms of quality, the zoom lenses aren't made for that.
Focal length change the prespective of the macro.
50mm give a wider "immersive" view than a 100mm which more isolate the subject.
Also the 1:1 distance with 50mm is closer then with 100mm. With 100mm it's around 30cm, 50mm around 20cm so with bugs a 100mm would be better.
Comment by Anvh posted on How do I know whan a Lens is a macro lens at 21/11/2010 - 10:36
I think everyone tries to just get the best shot possible.
the less p&p the better, but shooting raw still requires P&P,
I believe all great photographers did/do their own processing in the darkroom, i can be wrong though.
But what you said about RAW is the whole point i asked this question.
RAW always need a little bit of processing so if you shoot in RAW why not go a bit further and maximize the data in the photo rather than keep the processing to a minimal?
Comment by Anvh posted on straight or processed? at 21/11/2010 - 10:16
I just shot 129 photos yesterday in 2 hours so the numbers off shots say nothing.
I do shot them all in manual mode so hopefully i can work on 3 to 5 photos at a time applying the same settings to all of them.
Comment by Anvh posted on What do you shoot? at 21/11/2010 - 10:12
ooh Lordi should be good, the DA*50-135 is an excellent concert lens.
I have used 16mm sometimes but most shots where around 20 to 40 mm with that lens..
With the DA*50-135 most were around 80 to 135 mm.
Most where shot at f/2.8 1/50 sec at ISO1000 or ISO800 only some shots where shot with a higher f-number for the DOF but not so many because shutter-speed became too low.
Yeah lordi will be great, will contact them today with the hope they can give me permission to take photos.
Comment by Anvh posted on Gare Du Nord (concert) at 21/11/2010 - 09:45
I'm wandering how many off you shoot to maximize "data" so you can have a better photo after processing rather than that you aim to get the best photo straight out of the camera.
So do you aim for best shot straight out of the camera of best shots for processing?
Comment by Anvh posted on straight or processed? at 21/11/2010 - 09:36
Feeling inferior now, need to try and take less than 200 to 300 shots per outing so that I have time to process RAW images. Will my photo,s reflect the improvement and can some one point out which photo's of mine already posted would show benefit from being shot in RAW?
I'm not against RAW, just some attitudes that people have against using just jpgs.
Best regards
And all photos can benefit from RAW, it just opens up possibilities but it isn't for everyone.
There is a difference between RAW programs I find that Lightroom works very fast and Aperture works roughly the same way i believe, just try out those programs and see what it can do for you.
I just shot 129 photos yesterday in 2 hours so the numbers off shots say nothing.
I do shot them all in manual mode so hopefully i can work on 3 to 5 photos at a time applying the same settings to all of them.
Comment by Anvh posted on What do you shoot? at 21/11/2010 - 09:25
Are you two trying to confuse me now ?
You will only gain some extra settings like whitebalance for example you can change that far easily with RAW than with JPG so in a way RAW is much more forgiving also with exposure since RAW holds more information. If a photo is too dark you can most off the time save it when you shot in RAW if it isn't too far off the correct exposure that is.
Shoot some photos in RAW+ you'll have the JPG and when you want you can play with the RAW file to see what that does and can do for you.
The only thing what I try to make clear is that the RAW will not match the JPG 100% because the RAW is literally raw data so it's open for interpretation.
Ask 5 bakers to make an apple-pie and they will all taste slightly different, that's how you should see it.
Also those RAW programs make a basic applepie so to say, it's still open to adapt it so you can add more sugar or some raisins if you want and that's why working with RAW can make a difference. You often can push the photo just a bit further then what the camera or default settings does.
you can set up custom profiles for each camera.... but default settings, the RAW converter will do pretty much what the camera would in terms of whitebalance and exposure, if anything it might do a better conversion than the camera...
Comment by Anvh posted on What do you shoot? at 21/11/2010 - 09:14
Comment by Anvh posted on Thinking of picking up a Macro... at 21/11/2010 - 08:47
I'd like to test the pentax raw format.
The *istDS doesn't write DNG, so for what I initially want to compare, only a PEF will do.
DNG may well be fine for the K5, but I will discover that for myself once I have a PEF.
See it as milk, it comes in various containers but they all hold the same product.
Comment by Anvh posted on Sample .pef downloads? at 21/11/2010 - 08:46


Since this was my first time and tough lighting (concert) I think i'll end up with 20 to 30 keepers.
When i shoot for leisure under normal condition that number is higher tough.