Anvh

Joined: 4th July 2008

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Anvh
alig wrote:

Peter, I had it on a tripod, 2 sec delay, mirror up, Shake reduction was on but, I think, is cancelled when 2 sec delay used. I had my UV filter on front. Have seen the debate on this, may try some without to see if there is a difference. I'm just not sure if it's the lens or filter. Could it be the body? I know it sounds stupid but...
It isnt camera movement or the SR, it's CA because you could remove it that way.
The CA is caused by the optics so the filter glass and the micro senor all probably at something.

the biggest problem might be the filter, the lens is designed for the light to hit a lens a certain way and the correction in the lens is made for that but a filter might change the light before it goes through the lens.

This might explain things http://toothwalker.org/optics/chromatic.html

Comment by Anvh posted on What's causing this? at 21/11/2010 - 22:35

Anvh
duncanM wrote:
You must be an insomniac, Stefan! It sounds like you are exposing as metered, a bit under, and a bit over, (for each shot) and then further correcting at pp stage!
You think i bracket the shot?
If so that isn't true, i actually shoot most in manual so that they have the same setting/exposure so that i can batch process 3 to 5 and some times more at one time.
Off those 304 shots i only need to edit 40 times or so because of that, it goes quite fast.

So what i'm actually doing is time saving so that i dont get insomnia

Don wrote:
I'm sorry Stephen, but sometimes I think you overcomplicate things.
Where was that aimed at?
At my explanation to TT or my shooting?

Comment by Anvh posted on What do you shoot? at 21/11/2010 - 22:15

Anvh
One of the reasons there is noises in the shadows is because the image sensor is a linear device. It capture more details in the lighter part than the dark part.
ETTR is a solution for that.

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/digital-exposure-techniques.htm

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml

Comment by Anvh posted on Sample .pef downloads? at 21/11/2010 - 14:56

Anvh
50mm f/1.7 is good lens for stacking and because it's a f/1.7 that means the aperture is relatively larger so the DOF is small.
Also the lens is very cheap secondhand

Here is a nice tool to see what the focal length does so you can see the difference between 50mm and 90mm http://www.tamron.eu/en/lenses/focal-length-comparison.html

Here is a read about lenses, it can be a bit technical but i hope it helps
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-lenses.htm

Comment by Anvh posted on How do I know whan a Lens is a macro lens at 21/11/2010 - 14:05

Anvh
Jon it depends on how close you can get.
I was around the 7 meters away with the DA*50-135 and that was perfect for the lens.

With the DA*16-50 i was less then 2 meter away, just to give you an idea here is one at 16mm, still need to process that one though so will be uploaded again later maybe.

[IMG]http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/Anvh/Gare%20Du%20Nord/_IGP0107.jpg[/IMG]
(Should have used f/2.8 1/50 also with the DA*16-50 )

If you can't get close then the 30mm lens will not be useful you will only be using the 50-150mm most likely

Comment by Anvh posted on Gare Du Nord (concert) at 21/11/2010 - 13:14

Anvh
mmacleod wrote:
Maybe I should mention that I only have the 18-55mm kit lens!
The 18-55 can focus pretty close, just as close as most zoom "macros"
Set the lens on 55mm and the focus on the closets settings and move your camera/body till you get the focus right.
It should be able to do 1:2,9 that way, good enough for plants and for big insects maybe???

Comment by Anvh posted on How do I know whan a Lens is a macro lens at 21/11/2010 - 12:58

Anvh
Bret and Simon what I for example meant is ETTR (expose to the right) that's one technique to maximize data.
Basically you deliberately over-expose your photo because more data is captured by the sensor in the lighter area than dark areas, because you overexpose, the camera output is not close to the output you had in mind you need to do PP to get the photo right.
This trick only works in RAW btw.

little read http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/expose-right.shtml

Comment by Anvh posted on straight or processed? at 21/11/2010 - 12:49

Anvh
half way now.
here is a small selection, all taken with the DA*50-135.
The better shots with the DA*16-50 still needs to come

[IMG]http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/Anvh/Gare%20Du%20Nord/_IGP9824.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/Anvh/Gare%20Du%20Nord/_IGP9849.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/Anvh/Gare%20Du%20Nord/_IGP9920.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk244/Anvh/Gare%20Du%20Nord/_IGP9944.jpg[/IMG]

Comment by Anvh posted on Gare Du Nord (concert) at 21/11/2010 - 12:35

Anvh
Sorry for the delay but the comp is closed, sadly we don't have so many entries and votes this time

The winner with a difference of one vote is:
Babe shot by i-Berg
Comment Image


Congratulations

Comment by Anvh posted on Voting #5: A movie - the votes: at 21/11/2010 - 11:38

Anvh
gartmore wrote:
I just try to take a good photograph. 'Maximise "data"'?, the phrase 'get a life' springs to mind


johnriley wrote:
I shoot to make the image I have in mind.
That's true for both ways the difference is with one you do the most in the camera and with the other you do it with the processing so the camera only becomes a tool to capture and less to create because the output isn't the final product you had in mind.

If you shoot JPG you're basically stuck with the first option but with RAW you've the option to do the later to get the most out of the processing.

Just two different ways to Rome.

Comment by Anvh posted on straight or processed? at 21/11/2010 - 10:47

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