It was on the home page but is gone.. Its also in their add in the AP dated 24/7

It says 21st-28th July on the website. Not sure if the prices are already halved on the website. I would give them a ring then you can also ask about the condition of the lenses

I'll second that - the 135 3.5 can be had very cheaply and is a great little lens. I got one for £25 + 3.99 postage of ebay the other week to match my newly acquired ME super (also £25). There never was an M 2.8. The A 2.8 is somewhat larger and fetches rather more. The SMC K 2.5 is legendary and expensive. The (non SMC) K Takumar 2.5 is OK and cheap, but not nearly as neat and sharp as the 3.5. Then there is the A* 1.8....

Just noticed that Mr Cad has no less them 5 PKA 35mm f2.8 lenses for sale at various prices all reasonable, and the site is advertising half price on all lenses for the next week...

See here

The 15mm DA Ltd comes to mind, it accepts 49mm filters. However the retractable lens hood may not retract far enough.

The Sigma 18-125 gote rather poor reviews when it came out. I don't know if they upgraded it at all. I would also vouch for the (in my case Pentax) 18-250 and it is probably better than the Sigma at equivalent focal lengths.

I would go for MZ6 or MZ7 over the MZ5 because they have control over the aperture from the body - which means you can control the aperture of lenses (DA, FAJ) that don't have an aperture control ring. MZ6 is the best bet as its feature set is pretty good. I suspect that on the MZM also aperture control in Av mode is via the lens.

The review is here

The amount of magification of wobble over the whole frame is related to the angle of view rather than the focal length, so as the angle of view on APS-C is reduced with respect to 35mm for any given focal length you do need to scale up the minimum shutter speed - so 1/500 for 300mm is a good 'rule of thumb'. Of course if you brace yourself against something solid, turn on SR, and take half a dozen pics in the hope that one will be OK, you can get away with much slower shutter speeds.

Of course for any test of focus issues they really must be done with a tripod to eliminate other variables. A 'quick and dirty' test is to point the camera at a sloping tiled roof and see which tiles are in focus. If the tiles in the middle are sharpest there are no focus issues. If the tiles in focus are nearer the top the camera is back focusing. If they are nearer the bottom the problem is front focus.

Actually you get more effective shift in as much as you get 11mm of shift on a 16x24 APS C frame, so you can actually move 3mm 'above' the horizon whereas on at 24x36 full frame the horizon remains 1mm inside the frame on full shift. However usefullness as an architectural lens is diminished by the narrower angle of view you get from the APS C frame (equivalent to 42mm)

Another use for a shift lens is to create stitched panoramas. Doing this with the Pentax 28mm lens (taking two pictures, one shifted 11mm left, the other 11mm right) gives you an 'effective' sensor size of 16x46 - nearly 1:3 - and almost double your image size in pixels, as well as avoiding the problems created by changing the horizontal angle of the camera in conventional stitched panoramas. The resulting image is equivalent of taking a letterbox slice from a 22mm lens in 35mm format.

If you don't need the pixels of course another way of acheiving shift for architectural purposes is to use an ultrawide, take the picture vertically and compose it for the top half of the frame keeping the camera level, and just slice off unwanted forground at the bottom in PP