amilner

Joined: 17th May 2004

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amilner
Certainly artificial light flickers 100 times a second in the UK, especially fluorescent light (incandescent lamps even out the flickering much better) - that fact can used to calibrate the speed of turntables, so any shutter speed faster than that will be affected to some extent. Whether colour temperature also flickers I do not know, but your pictures would suggest that is the case. Try using 1/100 s (I know it won't freeze movement as well, but it will at least identify the cause of the problem)

Comment by amilner posted on I've a white balance problem - any ideas? at 05/04/2008 - 10:55

amilner
Jacobs are a pretty reputable firm, and they have a chain of real shops in the UK as well as an online store.

Comment by amilner posted on Jacobs Camera Shop at 29/03/2008 - 10:43

amilner
From the penultimate picture your sensor needs cleaning!

Comment by amilner posted on Latest "M" Purchase Need Another For The Prime Set at 29/03/2008 - 09:45

amilner
Quote:
When I got my 10-17, I started shooting landscapes with the idea of straightening them
It takes so much time and effort
Even using the distortion correction in the Pentax Photo Lab?

Comment by amilner posted on Considering.. at 29/03/2008 - 09:28

amilner
Quote:
ps. I know that a fisheye image can be digitally de-fishified... but not without side effects, apparently.
Has anybody actually tried this with success? Is the distortion at the corners (e.g. off shaped faces) when you do this any diffferent from that produced by ultrawide rectilinear lenses? I also am contemplating an ultrawide and I quite enjoy the fisheye effect (I have the K17 which I use with film) but it is not always desirable. If a reasonable result can be obtained by de-fisheying I might go that route.

Comment by amilner posted on Considering.. at 28/03/2008 - 11:56

amilner
Park Cameras? They are usually very quick to get new Pentax stock.

Comment by amilner posted on Out of interest.. at 27/03/2008 - 12:42

amilner
For reasonable money you could have the Pentax 50-200 or the soon to be released Pentax 55-300, or the Sigma DG Apo Macro 70-300 or the Tamron Di II 70-300. All are a more or less direct replacement for the 70-210. I can vouch for the Sigma 70-300 and the Pentax 50-200.

The 18-250 is a very useful lens and a pretty decent performer given the inevitable compromises - I've had no problem with enlargements to A4 from it.

Comment by amilner posted on Pentax Lenses at 25/03/2008 - 19:57

amilner
On some early third party lens the flange by the aperture control lever is of a diferent size or in a slightly diferent place which makes it impossible to mount it on some more modern Pentax bodies - comparing this image with a pentax K mount manual lens (specifically my newly acquired SMC A 135 2.8 ) seems to suggest this is probably your problem.

Comment by amilner posted on Mounting k lens to GX10 at 25/03/2008 - 20:07

amilner
I want one! it would replace my 16-45. OK I lose 1mm at the wide end but I gain SDM, 50% more reach and it zooms the 'right' way so won't cast a shadow with the built in flash at wide angle!

Comment by amilner posted on Pentax 17-70 f4 SDM at 24/03/2008 - 19:23

amilner
In my defence I did leave that complicating detail off my compatibility table! (I just used the word 'probably' in reference to vignetting)

Comment by amilner posted on Sorry (no sticky) - FA or F on K series at 29/03/2008 - 10:46

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