Nice bright light Lidy... the colouring's spot on.
Great crested grebes are rapidly becoming the new swans
round here.

Keep your eye out for a KIRON 28-105mm f/3.2-4.5 MACRO
I got a mint/boxed one for £19 on ebay similar to the Vivitar 28-105mm
made by Cosina. A few of the Kirons were also sold as Vivitars
but the original is probably slightly better.

Chris,

SMC A* 300 f4.5 - £490

Should than not be f/4 I already have one?

I really like bakelite stuff. If I ever collected anything it would have to be made of bakelite..... old radios.... photo frames.... Bayco Building Kits etc.

Shame Pentax lenses don't come in a bakelite case

ok cALM dOWN!! bE cOOL!!

I don't know if people are being argumentative or just don't understand what I said.

Good job I didn't post a photo taken by candlelight on DAYLIGHT balanced film. People would be jumping on me with all kinds of lab reports and statements from Kodak saying it's incorrect and you can't do it. Photography has always broken rules, we put stuff in front of our lenses when it reduces resolution etc.

It was obviously/probably a bit difficult, because there was only one photograph, for some of you to understand what I was saying, so here's a test photograph taken on the left at f/11 and on the right at f/22. These are staight Jpegs off the camera with no PP captured by the print screen button. The captured view was at 100% (1:1) So they are the actual pixels.

I hope you can see that the right is sharper than the left and there is no problem at all using f/22 and when I want maximum sharpness I will continue to do so, without even consulting a technical manual




This was the full test shot

I've had two originals one was better than the other.

One came with a *istDS and one with a K10D The *istDS one was the better one.

I bought a Mk II and couldn't tell any difference between that and the best of the Mk 1's

The WR is supposed to be identical to the Mk II

They still made the tanks until quite recently Matt so yours might not be that old.

The good thing about the stainless tanks in cold weather is that you can put them in a bowl of water at 20C or 25C between inversions, although for 20C the room temp. won't be far off. I used to use 25C with HC110 to cut down the development time.

Inversion agitation is also considered to be the most consistent which would have put people of these tanks if they couldn't do that.

I just take a picture and look at an A4 print and say is that sharp enough and it usually is

Can somebody please tell me what is wrong with that picture of the Vivitar lens? Would you not be happy if you could take a picture like that?

Theory and lines per mm are OK but hardly any of it ever reaches the final print.

When I first got my Pentax A 50mm f/1.7 with a new Super A I tested it against a Patterson Reslution Chart which went up to 120 lpmm and it was off the chart at f/8. So I did the test again increasing the distance by 25% and it seemed that the lens was good for 140 lpmm which I thought was great.

I then got curious about how many of them lpmm actually finished up on a 10x8 sheet of BW glossy fibre based paper after trying with about 6 top 50mm enlarger lenses and a Nikon 63mm (top lens according to BJP) the most I could manage was 90 lpmm on the paper and that was with an Omicron 50mm f/2.8 EL (top lens according to AP).

In fact if you use a 20x magnifier on a 35mm negative you can see stuff that isn't on and never will be on a print, so don't think that laboratory measurements mean anything outside the lab. If it works.... just use it.... it will be alright, I won't tell anybody you used f/22

That's some kit and no doubt some price

The musical note position checks if the subject is within Auto range when you press the check button. Your better ignoring it and just push the switch to the top on position. I never use Auto flash anyway, never have done.

28-50mm seems a very strange choice in a K as well? I've got the 24-50mm A series, but haven't used it much. I used to like the 24-50mm F in my SFXn days even though it was a bit soft.