That's one big advantage with "In-Body" SR. If they come up with an improved version, it's available in the latest camera and works with all your lenses.

With "In-Lens" SR (aka "Legacy SR" from the film days ) when they come up with an improvement as Nikon did (mentioned in a link recently) you have to change ALL your lenses and SR won't even be available for some.

It's better to charge the batteries before they go completely dead.

Welding leads make very good Speaker Cables in Cars!

I'll have to try the K-5 with a KM lens and the green button to see
if it does perform better than the K20D did.

I'll put the hammer and cold chisel away for now!

With standard SATA drives + leads you also need to run power leads and they won't be hot plugable. I'ts a lot neater using the slide in boxes I mentioned above and have a separate power supply. They also do a housing for 2 drives EasySwap for £48 link

There is a version of eSata that has the power as well in one lead.

They also have to pay VAT, but I think it's just on the profit?

Interesting Andrew

It was the 28mm Sigma that I mentioned, nice to know that the 24mm is similar.

There can be a difference how a lens works close up and how it works at say 50m.

The 50mm Rikenon I compared before was identical to the Pentax A 50mm f/1.7.

It didn't perform that good in an AP test of all the 50mm lenses.
The best was actually a 50mm CZ Jena f/1.4, but they go for £300 now.

If you want a lens with character the 55mm lenses are better.

Matt, this graph shows the error link

Further down the page it tells you how to meter using Tv and Av using M42 lenses.......... this would also apply to KM lenses with the lever cut off.... so get out your Dremel

It's against the law not to provide toilets for cafe's etc.

I think the OP meant lever, although I suppose a flat pin would
have described it slightly better, but that is the one.

It's not unusual to have to cut off some of the baffle/shroud that protects that lever on some Vivitar lenses and great care has to be taken not to get any filings inside the lens. Cutting is also needed on some non Pentax bayonets such as Olympus to make them fit.

Possibly the lever could be removed altogether on some lenses.

It's not actually a bad idea, because the 'M' lenses don't meter correctly via the green button and should meter correctly in AV mode. Another option would be to remove the piece in the camera. There's two separate stop down mechanisms in the 'K' mount and modern lenses use the other one. I think RiceHigh documented them once but the diagrams might have come from the Dimitrov site.

Now where's that old 'K' 200mm f/2.5 and me Dremel