K's are probably better built, but the 85mm is built to
a high standard.

If you drop them on the floor they would probably come off
as being the same

In bright sunlight you can just use the 'Sunny 16' Rule.
A greycard (mid-grey) should be around 117R 117G 117B

This is just off a 'Sunny 16' shot straight from the
JPG.

The granite flags average about the same as the greycard.
The white isn't burnt out and the ivy leaf which reads
2/3 stop darker than the greycard with a Pentax Digital
Spotmeter looks a lot darker. The shadow of my head is
reading 3 stops below the greycard, but is almost black.

Grass is usually 1/2 to 1 stop below a greycard.




When converted to B&W the leaf looks a lot darker.




So shots in bright sunlight should look dark.


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The M85 f/2 is very underrated. Sharp at f/2 and at f/2.8
sharper than all the other similar M lenses such as the
100mm, 120mm etc.

Try asking "Who makes the best clothes pegs" on one of the
womans forums

Does this look any better...




From the 2nd image above.

15 out of 20 of the best selling cameras in Japan are still
APS-C and most of these are beginners cameras. The first FF
is at about No: 43 which in unit terms probably isn't very much.

http://bcnranking.jp/category/subcategory_0008.html


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There's a good TV program about the Kodak history, but
I can't remember where the name came from. The first
Kodak cameras didn't even have a viewfinder.... you just
aimed in the general direction

Edit: According to.....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eastman_Kodak

"The letter k was a favorite of Eastman's; he is quoted as saying, "it seems a strong, incisive sort of letter." He and his mother devised the name Kodak with an Anagrams set. Eastman said that there were three principal concepts he used in creating the name: it should be short, easy to pronounce, and not resemble any other name or be associated with anything else."

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It would work anyway..... If you do all the Zone System tests to arrive at the correct film speed for a maximum black on the print most B&W films were rated about a stop too high by the manufacturer so overexposing by 1 stop by taking a reading off your hand and not adjusting it would give the correct exposure. I always used 200 ASA for Tri-X instead of 400 ASA.

You could use 400 ASA, but there wouldn't be a maximum black on any of your prints

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HDR does make stuff look 2D

You prefer auctions with 100+ bidders!

It's set the price for future auctions

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