I tried a couple of times to update my gx10 without success and finally twigged that I was putting the download into a file folder on the card rather than into the root directory. Copied it in again in the right place and it worked a treat.

Al

I've always used Epson A4 printers from the Stylus Photo range and the results have been indistinguishable from lab-produced prints. My latest model, the R265 (now discontinued), uses Claria inks that Epson claims will last 98 years (there's precision for you) on a wall or 200 years in an album. I'm sceptical, but may not be around to prove them wrong unless I give up smoking. Judging by the prices quoted in this thread for larger prints, an A3 printer wouldn't make financial sense for me, although others may prefer the control and instant gratification that in-house printing gives you. I bought my first Sylus Photo, the 830, after reading very positive magazine reviews and haven't looked back. The cheaper models don't have the lifespan of professional kit but the results seem just as good and the replacement cost is low.

Al

I can't find any mention of PEFs in the help files, but then again DNG is mentioned only a couple of times -- they refer to raw files. Don't have any PEFs to test, I'm afraid. The help files say this:

This camera list shows cameras that are supported by this software

Do not use a camera that is not on the list even if it can operate the RAW data, because we do not provide any support for it.

You cannot get the normal development result with an unsupported camera. It also may cause the software to freeze.

[The camera which you purchased]

Samsung GX-10, GX-20

In order to handle RAW data of cameras except the one shown above, please purchase a release version of "SILKYPIX® Developer Studio 3.0" separately at the following site.

• Official Site of SILKYPIX (http://www.silkypix.com)


Al

Sorry about the link, Amin. Shows how much I know about b****y Flickr. It should work now.

Al

Presumably they all come with the same software. My Dixons/Newcastle Airport GX20 software says "Powered by SilkyPix Developer Studio 3.0". There should be a screenshot of the interface here: link
Haven't used the "proper" Silkypix so I can't make any useful comparison but the Samsung version seems pretty fully featured.

Al

The original Arsat, which the Arax seems to be based on, got a favourable review in AP a few years ago. I think it was available only with a Nikon mount then. Its main selling point was pretty good quality at a price well below anything produced by the major manufacturers.

Al

I don't have an R1800 but my present R265 and earlier 830U produced spectacularly accurate colours straight out of the box. I have never had to fiddle with the drivers. Premier Inks advised that it was not a good idea to mix Epson and non-Epson cartridges as the results can be unpredictable. It would be worth replacing the non-Epson cartridge and reinstalling the Epson software to remove at least two of the variables as you try to find a solution. Sorry I can't be of more help.

Edit: After reading another post on printers, I thought it might be worth adding my experience with paper. I now use only Epson paper. I have occasionally seen colour casts with other brands (green, I recall, rather than blue). I now source my Epson paper from an office supply company in Aberdeen (Langstane Press) because of their competitive price.

Good luck

Al

My favourite soap opera by far. I cried when they scrapped it. Mind you, I thought Waterworld was a great movie. Nice shots, by the way, Jackitec. Thanks for the memories.

Al

I had a quick play with this and it's relatively simple to adjust the background colour - but time-consuming to do it properly. I'm using Serif PhotoPlus X3 but the sample principle applies to almost any photo-editing programme (or program, if you must).

First you have to "select" the lizard with the freehand selection tool. This can be frustrating with a mouse but a graphics tablet is much better. At this stage, any changes you apply will relate to the lizard, which isn't what you want. Under the "selection" drop-down tab, you "invert selection", so any changes you make relate to everything except the lizard, which is what you want.

In this case, I applied hue, saturation and lightness adjustments to the selected area, but you can change the colour and intensity of the background in any way you want. To put make the background slightly less detailed, I added a little Gaussian blur. You can find my effort at the link below.

PhotoPlus has an "extract" function that is supposed to separate the lizard from the background relatively simply but this seldom perfectly in my experience. Other software is available to do the same thing but I've haven't tried it.

As always with photo-editing, it's important to work on a copy of your work so you keep the original safe. For more flexibility, you can create separate "layers" to adjust and combine them into the finished product.

I love the photos, by the way. They capture the character of the animals, which is what natural photography is all about.

Al



link

You're welcome, JudithAnn. What great pix!

Al