The first thing to do it not to panic. They're only photos. The next thing is don't take any more photos on the card or fiddle with it in any way until you have appropriate software to try to recover the images. Many pieces of software claim to recover files from formatted cards. This link could be a starting point, but I'd wait until other members of the forum with specific expertise with this problem respond. I've got a couple of paid-for programmes (programs, if you prefer) that work well with recovering deleted filed but others will have more experience with accidentally formatted cards.

Al

I rather like this (the original and Barrie's version). The colours look autumnal, not too garish on my netbook screen, and there's an element of mystery about the OOF background. It works even better, I feel, with about a third cropped off the bottom. I thought the left side might need cropping as well but, on reflection, it looks better as a semi-panorama. Good job. I can see opportunities as a newspaper/magazine stock shot.

Al

Some very good shots here. I haven't taken any sports photos since the days of manual focus and would be interested in hearing which of the AF modes you guys used.

Al

They were pretty well essential for newspapers to bring down the cost per frame but I think you'd have to be a prodigious user to take that route now as an individual. I see you can still buy Ilford film in bulk, though, if you're determined.

Al

Since it's got a micro-USB socket, you should be able to connect an SD card card reader or your camera to the Hudl with a suitable cable. My Archos uses an "on the go" cable (whatever that means -- I suspect the pinout is slightly different to a standard USB>Micro USB cable). This is the sort of think you need: link. There will certainly be a way to do it. The Hudl looks like a pretty good bet, by the way.

Al

I lost the hot shoe cover for my K-30 a while ago and bought a cheapo on eBay. It was bound to fit, surely? No, it didn't -- at least not as tightly as the original and certainly not well enough to ensure any sort of weather sealing. Had to pay the ridiculous Pentax price for a proper replacement. The cover for the GX-20 (K20D) is the same as the K-30's, so I suspect you'd run into the same problem. As to whether a cover is essential, it's bound to help with sealing and I wouldn't risk going out in the rain without one.

Al

One advantage of P mode is that, initially, you'll get a more useable combination of aperture and speed for a grab shot in darkish conditions. In Av, you're likely to risk a low shutter speed (or a high one in bright conditions) because you've set the aperture for the lighting that existed during an earlier "shoot".

I agree, there's an extra step involved in switching to aperture priority but this quickly becomes second nature. You also have the capability of switching to Tv almost instantly if the shot requires it. It all depends on what sort of photographer you are and your normal subject matter.

Technically, P mode can be set to operate in exactly the same way as Av. The only practical difference is that you'll lose your chosen aperture when you switch the camera off and must reset it when you switch on.

If Av gives you more self-confidence in your photography, that's fine, but it's more a question of mindset than practicality. Manual's fine too, but P mode can give you exactly the same settings if you're following the metered exposure or have factored in some compensation. Pure manual is good fun, though, and gives great control in very specific circumstances.


Al (who admits to using Av and manual from time to time)

I've been using an Archos 80 G9 Turbo for a year or so and it does everything I want. All my pals have iPads and they certainly do the job, if you can justify the price. I can't.

The Archos (OS is Android Ice Cream Sandwich) has good connectivity, with a mini USB connection that I hook up to a small Fuji SD card reader for importing pix. It has a built-in micro-SD card reader, but I just use this for extra storage. There's HDMI out and 3G connectivity with an optional stick, as well as wi-fi.

It comes in 8in and 10in versions, but I find the smaller screen size ideal for a bit of on-the-go computing. The screen's not great viewed from an angle but more than adequate straight on. The new Archos models have IPS screens, but the TFT screen in the 80 G9 is fine, given its relatively small size. Plenty of "apps" are available from the Google Playstore, or whatever they call it. Could be worth a look.


I mainly use mine when I'm travelling and can do without a proper keyboard.

Al

Right on both counts.

A rough guess at the flash-ceiling-subject distance is good enough because the auto setting for any given aperture has a fair bit of leeway. If the ceiling is high or dark-coloured, forget it. Your flash may have an indicator to show if the exposure is OK. The 283 does.

The slower the shutter speed, the more ambient light ends up on film but you have to balance this against the possibility of camera shake.

Al

Fill-in flash is tricky with film: you won't know if it worked until you get your prints back. This can be an expensive learning curve. I'd try a few shots using the flash as your main light source and see how you get on.

Set the camera to its maximum speed for flash sync, set the lens aperture according to the scale on the flash (which I imagine gives you a choice of apertures depending on the range of your subject), set your ISO on the flash and fire away on auto. If the ceiling's low enough, this should give reasonable results if you want to bounce off it.

I don't think your flash has PTTL control but the auto circuitry on my Vivitar 283 does at least as good a job (better in a lot of circumstances) than this newfangled magic.

Good luck

Al