What size for raw please?
Posted 12/03/2014 - 09:17
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Smeggypants wrote:
It's a nice image and nice composition, but both the JPG and RAW version you've posted need some work to bring them up to scratch in terms of a quality presentation that pops. They both look really flat and have no depth or character.
Proper editing could make both those images shine, but the point is that RAW gives the editor more to work with and ore latitude to get what the editor's vision wants.
In that respect RAW wins
It was just to show you can revisit a DNG in camera develop and process to enhance without a PC or complicated software. I can also print directly to a printer. dougf8 wrote:
Jpeg from camera,
[IMG]http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx49/df8/IM5G0822_zpsdb62c0ca.jpg~original[/IMG]
All in Camera post processed, Hipster processed from RAW with different exposure, shadow correction and other tweaks, then digital filter applied to make it look like I'm 25 years younger and I know WTF instagram is (needs a touch of vignette)
[IMG]http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx49/df8/IM5G0868_zpse0ba913c.jpg~original[/IMG]
I think I'll just use my phone from now on and flog the K-5 and lenses
I'm not sure on the point of that comparison Doug. Are you trying to say JPG from the Camera is better or Raw from the camera + post processing is better. Eiother way your comparison doesn't lean towards either being betterJpeg from camera,
[IMG]http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx49/df8/IM5G0822_zpsdb62c0ca.jpg~original[/IMG]
All in Camera post processed, Hipster processed from RAW with different exposure, shadow correction and other tweaks, then digital filter applied to make it look like I'm 25 years younger and I know WTF instagram is (needs a touch of vignette)
[IMG]http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx49/df8/IM5G0868_zpse0ba913c.jpg~original[/IMG]
I think I'll just use my phone from now on and flog the K-5 and lenses
It's a nice image and nice composition, but both the JPG and RAW version you've posted need some work to bring them up to scratch in terms of a quality presentation that pops. They both look really flat and have no depth or character.
Proper editing could make both those images shine, but the point is that RAW gives the editor more to work with and ore latitude to get what the editor's vision wants.
In that respect RAW wins
I'm aware more can be squeezed out from the Raw and the jpeg.
Lurking is shirking.!
Posted 12/03/2014 - 09:21
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Gamka wrote:
But a greater probability of loosing it.
Smeggypants wrote:
True, but there will be less to lose.Quote:
then you can misplace the card, it could get corrupted, or you suddenly find the card is full.
All that can happen with 4 or 8GB cards as well. There's certainly no difference in likely hood of a corrupted card depending on capacitythen you can misplace the card, it could get corrupted, or you suddenly find the card is full.
Lurking is shirking.!
Posted 12/03/2014 - 09:24
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Smeggypants wrote:
... but then totality contradict that by showing a complete irrational bias against RAW.
It is really hard to talk with you. You always seem to turn everything people say in a way that shows your superior intellect. ... but then totality contradict that by showing a complete irrational bias against RAW.
I just meant that RAW can be processed in so many different ways that you can always find a version of a given picture that you will like.
Yves (another one of those crazy Canucks)
Posted 12/03/2014 - 10:00
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Marvelous how a thread can deteriorate so quickly I think the question was answered in the first place by dougf8 stating he had bought a card of a certain size, i.e. 32gb. I think that he could have perhaps added that smaller cards could be used depending on how many images were to be taken before downloading the images to a computer. I use 8gb cards which I obtained at a good price and also a couple of 16gb cards which were more expensive. So far have not filled either size of card on a single shoot ( day trip with the club )
I shoot in RAW but no matter what it's still impossible to make a silk purse from a sow's ear Quite easy to do the reverse though
I shoot in RAW but no matter what it's still impossible to make a silk purse from a sow's ear Quite easy to do the reverse though
Posted 12/03/2014 - 10:00
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pentaxian450 wrote:
It's nothing to do with trying to show any superior intellect. Please don't turn a discussion into a personal spat. If I disagree with someone else's view should I refrain from saying so becuase I might be accused of trying to be superior? Of course not. If you have issues with intellect it's not something I can be held responsible for.Smeggypants wrote:
... but then totality contradict that by showing a complete irrational bias against RAW.
It is really hard to talk with you. You always seem to turn everything people say in a way that shows your superior intellect. ... but then totality contradict that by showing a complete irrational bias against RAW.
I'm just answering your post as you posted it. I can only respond on what you post.
Quote:
I just meant that RAW can be processed in so many different ways that you can always find a version of a given picture that you will like.
JPG can also be processed in so many different ways, certainly o less ways than RAW files can be. I just meant that RAW can be processed in so many different ways that you can always find a version of a given picture that you will like.
I really can't see how a file format can make a difference to someone's indecision.
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 12/03/2014 - 10:12
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Gamka wrote:
Well yes it's true that not putting all our eggs in one basket will help if one basket breaks, but how far do you get scaremongered about it.Smeggypants wrote:
True, but there will be less to lose.Quote:
then you can misplace the card, it could get corrupted, or you suddenly find the card is full.
All that can happen with 4 or 8GB cards as well. There's certainly no difference in likely hood of a corrupted card depending on capacitythen you can misplace the card, it could get corrupted, or you suddenly find the card is full.
I kid you not I've also heard people claim that higher capacity SD cards are more likely to go wrong.
We also see a lot of irrational mentality about 3rd party batteries, trying to claim they are more likely to go wrong because they haven't got a Petnax lebal on them.
SD card failure is a very rare occurrence. We all frequent photography forums in which thousands of people also frequent. If SD card failure ( or 3rd party battery failure ) was any kind of problem we'd hear about it.
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 12/03/2014 - 10:36
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Working in IT support I get to see the occasional SD card failure so ALWAYS backup data, asap really. Plus, always buy a good brand. Cheap ones aren't cheap for nothing.
Posted 12/03/2014 - 10:40
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Quote:
We also see a lot of irrational mentality about 3rd party batteries, trying to claim they are more likely to go wrong because they haven't got a Petnax lebal on them.
That is clearly not what is being argued, so do please at least quote accurately.We also see a lot of irrational mentality about 3rd party batteries, trying to claim they are more likely to go wrong because they haven't got a Petnax lebal on them.
As for SD cards, I would like to see tests on card errors to see if larger capacity cards do lose more sectors than lower capacity ones. All cards have errors to some degree. I'd also like to see some data as to whether faster cards have more errors than slower ones. As far as I can see there isn't any research easily findable.
Best regards, John
Posted 12/03/2014 - 11:15
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johnriley wrote:
As for SD cards, I would like to see tests on card errors to see if larger capacity cards do lose more sectors than lower capacity ones. All cards have errors to some degree. I'd also like to see some data as to whether faster cards have more errors than slower ones. As far as I can see there isn't any research easily findable.
According to the SD card manufacturers association they have a theoretical lifespan of 10 years. Maybe in lab conditions but I certainly wouldn't count on it. Take in to account everyday handling, being near mobile phones, magnets etc plus manufacturing quality variations I don't think it's possible to provide a realistic guide.
Quote:
We also see a lot of irrational mentality about 3rd party batteries, trying to claim they are more likely to go wrong because they haven't got a Petnax lebal on them.
That is clearly not what is being argued, so do please at least quote accurately.We also see a lot of irrational mentality about 3rd party batteries, trying to claim they are more likely to go wrong because they haven't got a Petnax lebal on them.
As for SD cards, I would like to see tests on card errors to see if larger capacity cards do lose more sectors than lower capacity ones. All cards have errors to some degree. I'd also like to see some data as to whether faster cards have more errors than slower ones. As far as I can see there isn't any research easily findable.
Posted 12/03/2014 - 15:35
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Smeggypants wrote:
Well yes it's true that not putting all our eggs in one basket will help if one basket breaks, but how far do you get scaremongered about it.
I kid you not I've also heard people claim that higher capacity SD cards are more likely to go wrong.
SD card failure is a very rare occurrence. We all frequent photography forums in which thousands of people also frequent. If SD card failure ( or 3rd party battery failure ) was any kind of problem we'd hear about it.
Yes, there is a balance and I work on a typical day of shooting - say 100 images or on holiday maybe 200 on some days as I will often bracket the shots. So, my cards are, in general, 4GB and 8GB. I do have a few 1 & 2 GB SD and micro SD cards which are there if I run out or have not had a chance to copy to my PC. Well yes it's true that not putting all our eggs in one basket will help if one basket breaks, but how far do you get scaremongered about it.
I kid you not I've also heard people claim that higher capacity SD cards are more likely to go wrong.
SD card failure is a very rare occurrence. We all frequent photography forums in which thousands of people also frequent. If SD card failure ( or 3rd party battery failure ) was any kind of problem we'd hear about it.
In the past year I have had two SD cards fail - both Sandisk and mechanical not electronic failures. So it does happen.
Posted 12/03/2014 - 17:24
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I've had two Sandisk cards fail with mechanical problems too
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 12/03/2014 - 18:16
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johnriley wrote:
???? I'm not quoting anyone. I often see it claimed 3rd party batteries are more likely to go wrong.
Quote:
We also see a lot of irrational mentality about 3rd party batteries, trying to claim they are more likely to go wrong because they haven't got a Petnax lebal on them.
That is clearly not what is being argued, so do please at least quote accurately.We also see a lot of irrational mentality about 3rd party batteries, trying to claim they are more likely to go wrong because they haven't got a Petnax lebal on them.
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 12/03/2014 - 18:20
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gartmore wrote:
I've had two Sandisk cards fail with mechanical problems too
Not saying you and Gamka are guilty of this of course , but I do often hear people recommending to flick the card out of the awkward K-5 slot by pinging it out by pressing it in and letting it fly. I've had two Sandisk cards fail with mechanical problems too
I'm aghast people do this as it's the best way to induce mechanical stresses and ultimately a failure of the card through cracked print.
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 12/03/2014 - 22:47
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I have had 2 out of 3 Sandisk Extreme SD cards have their write protect slider fall off. I cannibalised a faulty SD card to repair the 8GB version but the 2 GB version (previously used in my K10) rattles around in a drawer. The third, another 8GB is ok for the moment.
In fact I believe that 100% of Pentax batteries perform to Pentax specification and no other manufacturer can match that!
Smeggypants wrote:
Don't you mean that they are less likely to perform to Pentax specification?johnriley wrote:
???? I'm not quoting anyone. I often see it claimed 3rd party batteries are more likely to go wrong.Quote:
We also see a lot of irrational mentality about 3rd party batteries, trying to claim they are more likely to go wrong because they haven't got a Petnax lebal on them.
That is clearly not what is being argued, so do please at least quote accurately.We also see a lot of irrational mentality about 3rd party batteries, trying to claim they are more likely to go wrong because they haven't got a Petnax lebal on them.
In fact I believe that 100% of Pentax batteries perform to Pentax specification and no other manufacturer can match that!
Peter
Pentax K5
Pentax DA 18-55 Mk1, 50-200 (Samsung), 16-45, 55-300 Mk1, 35 f/2.4
Pentax MZ6 + FA28-90, FA50 f/1.4, M 50 f/1.7
Tamron 80-210mm & 28mm
Pentax K5
Pentax DA 18-55 Mk1, 50-200 (Samsung), 16-45, 55-300 Mk1, 35 f/2.4
Pentax MZ6 + FA28-90, FA50 f/1.4, M 50 f/1.7
Tamron 80-210mm & 28mm
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5986 posts
14 years
Surrey,
England
I don't think we need worry so much now on the old ideas about file sizes and storage space, reading speeds and so on .... the technology has moved on way beyond those issues really.
For me now, I look at each individual image (mostly shooting RAW+ now) and make some judgements about the actual content of what I see. I think mostly about the dynamic range and how high the contrast is. If, for example, I have deep blacks in shadows and need that pulling up, to reduce contrast, then RAW will give me more for that - I know because the sliders respond differently, giving more 'latitude' and a finer range of control. I also know that if I need more than about 1.5 stops of mid-tone brightening, then also I will go for RAW - this will allow better control over the white-point and, keeping nicer highlight tone as I pull up brightness. With JPEG the brightness values will bunch up and compress towards the upper end and push the whitepoint upwards as well more. And finally, with RAW I can get a better spread of low-tone contrast using the 'Fill Shadows' slider (Sagelight) with 'add contrast' active - with JPEG this will cause the blacks to bunch up quickly at the bottom.
So for me the decision is based on processing experience and remembering how the adjustments will act on these different kinds of image data. In many cases I will find an image that has a more limited spread of tones, lower contrast, and colours already very good - then I am happy to make just some slight adjustments to the JPEG, and save the RAW conversion step.
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver