K5 performance

davidstorm
Posted 06/11/2013 - 21:35 Link
bwlchmawr wrote:
Maybe it's me, maybe it's my copy of the K5, David. Certainy your wonderful photographs show what the camera is capable of producing.
I'm also a little baffled by your observations Andrew and also those of the OP as I've never found the K-5 images to be two dimensional and lifeless. What WB settings are you using, are you shooting JPEG or RAW and if shooting JPEG which profile?

The K10 will no doubt produce a warmer image, but this is easily remedied on the K-5 by setting the WB to a warmer setting (as mentioned previously, mine is usually on 'Daylight' or 'Cloudy', with an additional 1 position adjustment towards Amber). My feeling is that all of the required quality, sparkle and 3 dimensionality is present there in the RAW files and just needs bringing out. I agree with you that David Trout's images are anything but dull and lifeless and I don't think mine are either!

I also wonder whether any of the lenses you are using are a contributory factor? I know you use a lot of older glass, much of it not 'Pentax' glass. Like one of the previous posters I find the Pentax lenses produce the most pleasing colours and this holds true in general for older lenses as well as modern ones.

Regards
David
Flickr

Nicola's Apartments, Kassiopi, Corfu

Some cameras, some lenses, some bits 'n' bobs
JAK
Posted 06/11/2013 - 22:08 Link
alfpics wrote:
It didn't give a 22 bit output; the Digital-Analogue converter was overkill as it only output 10 or 12 bit of info to the end user! I think the 22-bit sampling might have just helped get a little more useful info from the sensor!
Andy
Quote:
12 bit and 14 bit RAW

Cameras are often advertised as capturing 12 bit or 14 bit RAW images. You might wonder how do these values correlate with the color depth of a camera. The 12 bit and 14 bit values are per-color values, e.g. 12 bits for each of red, green and blue, resulting in a possible 36 bits total, whereas color depth is measured in bits for each pixel (made up of the three colors). According to DxOMark's measurements though, even the best cameras only capture about 22 bits out of the possible 36 or 48 bits
See full article here: link

Hope that helps.

John K
John K
davidtrout
Posted 06/11/2013 - 22:16 Link
Andrew I'm no expert in Photoshop techniques and tend to go for the easier and quicker means of post process but for me quite minor tweaks in levels can transform a dull image providing its not totally past redemption. I also tend to use the vibrance slider in Photoshop
quite a lot and that might help although I'm not entirely sure what it does.
Perhaps David Storm's suggestion for warming up the in-camera WB might help you with the K5 Andrew. You shoot RAW and get some amazing pictures so there can't be much wrong with your K5. I know your K10 shots, particularly the black and whites, are superb.
David
PS In my pioneer days with digital photography (I was late in coming from film to the new technology) I progressed from the Ist Ds to the then brand new K10 and was disappointed at the increased noise and duller colours it produced, until I got used to the K10 and changed my approach to PS processing.

PPG: http://www.pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/davidtrout
Edited by davidtrout: 06/11/2013 - 22:22
Billdad
Posted 06/11/2013 - 22:55 Link
Hopefully the attached image is open for comment, I am now of the opinion that some of my issues relating to the K5 are not necessarily the camera but aperture choice and focus.
I am investing in a Pentax eyepiece magnifier which should allow more precise focus when using manual lenses, which by the way was a major influence in purchasing Pentax.
The other are which i am changing is to stop down an aperture especially in some of the Grab shots.Comment Image
Defragged
Posted 06/11/2013 - 23:12 Link
That looks a stunning image...
C.O.L.B.A.S victim
(Compulsive Obsessive Lens Buying Addiction Syndrome)

What you need are lenses, more lenses, bigger lenses, better lenses, faster lenses, vintage lenses and when you have these, your pictures will be perfect!
davidtrout
Posted 06/11/2013 - 23:24 Link
Defragged wrote:
That looks a stunning image...
I totally agree
David
davidstorm
Posted 06/11/2013 - 23:32 Link
Hi Bill

It is a stunning image, BUT it is back-focussed slightly and this is making it look flatter and not as 3 dimensional as it should be. The sharpest focus in this shot is in the lady's hair and not on the eyes.

Have you checked the AF adjustment on your K-5 with each lens you own? It may make a huge difference, it is item 26 in the camera menu and allows an adjustment of -10 to +10. Minus pushes the focus back, whereas plus brings it forward.

If the image was shot with a manual focus lens then you have just missed the focus slightly.

There is nothing else wrong with the image, colours, vibrancy etc. are spot on IMO.

Stopping down a little may have helped this shot, but I am not a fan of this as it will in itself make your images look flatter. Shallow DOF is a great asset in making your portraits look more dynamic and interesting, but you have to make sure the focus is 100% spot on.

Regards
David
Flickr

Nicola's Apartments, Kassiopi, Corfu

Some cameras, some lenses, some bits 'n' bobs
Billdad
Posted 06/11/2013 - 23:33 Link
davidtrout wrote:
Defragged wrote:
That looks a stunning image...
I totally agree
David
Notice you have enjoyed days out at the festival David, fantastic opportunity and enthusiastic models, enjoyed your work on photobucket
davidstorm
Posted 06/11/2013 - 23:34 Link
You beat me to the post Bill, have a look at my previous comment

Regards
David
Flickr

Nicola's Apartments, Kassiopi, Corfu

Some cameras, some lenses, some bits 'n' bobs
Smeggypants
Posted 06/11/2013 - 23:58 Link
People should always check the AF fine adjustment for their lenses regardless of any scaremongering or claims it's not necessary
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
bwlchmawr
Posted 07/11/2013 - 08:00 Link
Thank you for all of your encouraging advice and observations. I'm certainly not going to give up on the camera and will retrieve it from its resting place at some time.

I've never used "old glass" on the K5 but only own a couple of decent Pentax lenses. A Tamron 17-50 has been fitted from new, so that may be the problem, despite its good reputation.

Perhaps, as Jim Richardon said, I just need to "stand in front of more interesting stuff."
Best wishes,

Andrew

"These places mean something and it's the job of a photographer to figure-out what the hell it is."
Robert Adams
"The camera doesn't make a bit of difference.  All of them can record what you are seeing.  But, you have to SEE."
Ernst Hass
My website: http://www.ephotozine.com/user/bwlchmawr-199050
http://s927.photobucket.com/home/ADC3440/index
https://www.flickr.com/photos/78898196@N05
microlight2010
Posted 07/11/2013 - 09:19 Link
I echo everyone else; I would have been more than happy to capture the shot above (nothing wrong with the colour and vibrancy here) and many of Andrew's pictures in his portfolio! I tend to shoot landscapes and scenes with my K-5, using a medium aperture to maximise sharpness and depth of field, and use PDCU4 as my main RAW processor, supplemented with Photoshop if curve/level adjustments or sharpening is necessary. PDCU4 is very good at fine-tuning exposure and colour balance, and for optimising the dynamic range. This can provide real punch.

Also agree that individual lens focus adjustment is essential to optimise focussing, especially for closer subjects. One other thing I'd recommend which might have helped in the focus on the girl's eyes in the above picture, is selecting centre-point focus rather than the auto-multi-point option, which might have decided that the girl's hair had more contrast, which may be why it focused there. My camera tends to live on centre point, except for using the set option is specific circumstances.

Just an additional thought. Otherwise, great job
K-3II - HD DA20-40 Limited, HD DA55-300PLM, SMC DA10-17 Fishy, AF201FG Flashy
Billdad
Posted 07/11/2013 - 14:06 Link
I think you are spot on with your observation, I am now of the opinion that the focus point or indeed focus lock need to be familiarized and used.

Thanks with all comments
autumnlight
Posted 07/11/2013 - 15:45 Link
I don't have so much trouble with focusing on a certain object if i use manual but i find the auto focus on the K5 ( i didn't have this problem with the 100D or K7) is so temperamental in certain light conditions and really annoying, now it could me, and maybe it is
johnriley
Posted 07/11/2013 - 16:22 Link
What sort of light conditions are causing the problem Maria?
Best regards, John

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