Focusing problem
Posted 23/04/2018 - 22:18
Link
JAK wrote:
FWIW, for the K-5 it's the setting: AF button > Cancel AF which disables the focus when the shutter button is pressed. Guess that's a strange use of logic there!
The AF button has several settings, one where the camera will focus only when the shutter is pressed while the AF button is pressed.
See camera manual page 124.
However, the OP is referring to using a K-3.
As I also have a K5 the information is useful!
pgweber wrote:
Going back to what the OP said in the beginning, I am not convinced that once the focus has been set (either by shutter or AF button) that the camera will maintain that focus position. i.e. on my K5, I think the focus position will move.
Stephen, can you confirm if you used the AF button to pre-focus?
What would cause the focus to change if the camera is set to not refocus on shutter press?Going back to what the OP said in the beginning, I am not convinced that once the focus has been set (either by shutter or AF button) that the camera will maintain that focus position. i.e. on my K5, I think the focus position will move.
Stephen, can you confirm if you used the AF button to pre-focus?
FWIW, for the K-5 it's the setting: AF button > Cancel AF which disables the focus when the shutter button is pressed. Guess that's a strange use of logic there!
The AF button has several settings, one where the camera will focus only when the shutter is pressed while the AF button is pressed.
See camera manual page 124.
However, the OP is referring to using a K-3.
Flickr
DA AL 35mm f2.4, K3,18-135 WR, DA 55-300, Pentax KX, K5 x 2, 18-50 50-200 kit lenses, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Fuji X10, 2x Mamiya 1000s 2x 80mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5, 210mm f4, Yashica 124G TLR, 2x Yashica FX3 Super 2000, Tamron 28mm f2.8, 90mm SP f2.5, 135mm f2.5, Olympus 35RC, 2x Yashica FX2, Kodak Pocket Instamatic, Kodak Box Brownie
DA AL 35mm f2.4, K3,18-135 WR, DA 55-300, Pentax KX, K5 x 2, 18-50 50-200 kit lenses, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Fuji X10, 2x Mamiya 1000s 2x 80mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5, 210mm f4, Yashica 124G TLR, 2x Yashica FX3 Super 2000, Tamron 28mm f2.8, 90mm SP f2.5, 135mm f2.5, Olympus 35RC, 2x Yashica FX2, Kodak Pocket Instamatic, Kodak Box Brownie
Posted 23/04/2018 - 22:20
Link
pgweber wrote:
I was using a Tamron 17-50 f2.8, there's no slop with the focusing.
JAK wrote:
FWIW, for the K-5 it's the setting: AF button > Cancel AF which disables the focus when the shutter button is pressed. Guess that's a strange use of logic there!
The AF button has several settings, one where the camera will focus only when the shutter is pressed while the AF button is pressed.
See camera manual page 124.
However, the OP is referring to using a K-3.
I think that there is some looseness or slop in my 16-45 which is where I have noticed this effect.pgweber wrote:
Going back to what the OP said in the beginning, I am not convinced that once the focus has been set (either by shutter or AF button) that the camera will maintain that focus position. i.e. on my K5, I think the focus position will move.
Stephen, can you confirm if you used the AF button to pre-focus?
What would cause the focus to change if the camera is set to not refocus on shutter press?Going back to what the OP said in the beginning, I am not convinced that once the focus has been set (either by shutter or AF button) that the camera will maintain that focus position. i.e. on my K5, I think the focus position will move.
Stephen, can you confirm if you used the AF button to pre-focus?
FWIW, for the K-5 it's the setting: AF button > Cancel AF which disables the focus when the shutter button is pressed. Guess that's a strange use of logic there!
The AF button has several settings, one where the camera will focus only when the shutter is pressed while the AF button is pressed.
See camera manual page 124.
However, the OP is referring to using a K-3.
Flickr
DA AL 35mm f2.4, K3,18-135 WR, DA 55-300, Pentax KX, K5 x 2, 18-50 50-200 kit lenses, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Fuji X10, 2x Mamiya 1000s 2x 80mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5, 210mm f4, Yashica 124G TLR, 2x Yashica FX3 Super 2000, Tamron 28mm f2.8, 90mm SP f2.5, 135mm f2.5, Olympus 35RC, 2x Yashica FX2, Kodak Pocket Instamatic, Kodak Box Brownie
DA AL 35mm f2.4, K3,18-135 WR, DA 55-300, Pentax KX, K5 x 2, 18-50 50-200 kit lenses, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Fuji X10, 2x Mamiya 1000s 2x 80mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5, 210mm f4, Yashica 124G TLR, 2x Yashica FX3 Super 2000, Tamron 28mm f2.8, 90mm SP f2.5, 135mm f2.5, Olympus 35RC, 2x Yashica FX2, Kodak Pocket Instamatic, Kodak Box Brownie
Posted 23/04/2018 - 22:37
Link
sportyman531 wrote:
Ok then you should expect the two images to be identically focussed. pschlute wrote:
You say you "pre-focussed". But did you then turn off the AF ? Otherwise as soon as you press the shutter button when the train has arrived the camera will try and achieve focus again.
I didn't turn the AF off but once I had focused I kept the shutter release half down.You say you "pre-focussed". But did you then turn off the AF ? Otherwise as soon as you press the shutter button when the train has arrived the camera will try and achieve focus again.
Without being able to compare the two images we can only guess at the reason. Perhaps the OOF shot was because the AF was not able to get a good lock due to lack of contrast. It does happen.
post the pictures and tell us where you set the AF selective point.
Peter
My Flickr page
My Flickr page
Posted 23/04/2018 - 22:59
Link


The first image of the single car unit is the second of two and both are unsharp across the frame. The second image is the first of five all of which are sharp. the focus point was just in front of the cab in both cases.
These are the full size jpegs, I also shot in RAW.
It isn't obvious that the first one isn't sharp.
Flickr
DA AL 35mm f2.4, K3,18-135 WR, DA 55-300, Pentax KX, K5 x 2, 18-50 50-200 kit lenses, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Fuji X10, 2x Mamiya 1000s 2x 80mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5, 210mm f4, Yashica 124G TLR, 2x Yashica FX3 Super 2000, Tamron 28mm f2.8, 90mm SP f2.5, 135mm f2.5, Olympus 35RC, 2x Yashica FX2, Kodak Pocket Instamatic, Kodak Box Brownie
DA AL 35mm f2.4, K3,18-135 WR, DA 55-300, Pentax KX, K5 x 2, 18-50 50-200 kit lenses, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Fuji X10, 2x Mamiya 1000s 2x 80mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5, 210mm f4, Yashica 124G TLR, 2x Yashica FX3 Super 2000, Tamron 28mm f2.8, 90mm SP f2.5, 135mm f2.5, Olympus 35RC, 2x Yashica FX2, Kodak Pocket Instamatic, Kodak Box Brownie
Posted 23/04/2018 - 23:06
Link
I am afraid the pictures are too small for me to able to see. Can you upload full size images with exif intact to a site like flickr ?
Peter
My Flickr page
My Flickr page
Posted 23/04/2018 - 23:20
Link
pschlute wrote:
I am afraid the pictures are too small for me to able to see. Can you upload full size images with exif intact to a site like flickr ?
If you go to flickr and search for me as semi46243 the images are there. It's still not that obvious on there. When I pull the images up on my screen and enlarge them so that the unit virtually fills the screen the whole image is not sharp, I do the same with the loco hauled train and it is sharp.I am afraid the pictures are too small for me to able to see. Can you upload full size images with exif intact to a site like flickr ?
I have also posted on flickr two images taken last week of a static subject, steam loco outside the shed, one sharp one not and which shows the problem to better effect. They were taken one after the other at 1/100 second, SR on with a steady hand.
Flickr
DA AL 35mm f2.4, K3,18-135 WR, DA 55-300, Pentax KX, K5 x 2, 18-50 50-200 kit lenses, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Fuji X10, 2x Mamiya 1000s 2x 80mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5, 210mm f4, Yashica 124G TLR, 2x Yashica FX3 Super 2000, Tamron 28mm f2.8, 90mm SP f2.5, 135mm f2.5, Olympus 35RC, 2x Yashica FX2, Kodak Pocket Instamatic, Kodak Box Brownie
DA AL 35mm f2.4, K3,18-135 WR, DA 55-300, Pentax KX, K5 x 2, 18-50 50-200 kit lenses, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Fuji X10, 2x Mamiya 1000s 2x 80mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5, 210mm f4, Yashica 124G TLR, 2x Yashica FX3 Super 2000, Tamron 28mm f2.8, 90mm SP f2.5, 135mm f2.5, Olympus 35RC, 2x Yashica FX2, Kodak Pocket Instamatic, Kodak Box Brownie
Posted 23/04/2018 - 23:57
Link
Hi Steve
Just had a look at your pictures on flickr and there is clearly a problem and it has nothing to do with your focussing. Nothing at all is sharp in the unsharp pictures.
Only thing I can think of is that perhaps the shake reduction mechanism is not turning on correctly. This could be a problem on older cameras but I doubt it would be a reason on the K3. Perhaps experiment with it on/off.
Perhaps there is a problem with the lens ? You could do some experiments and see.
Other than that I am flummoxed. Anyone else got any ideas ?
Just had a look at your pictures on flickr and there is clearly a problem and it has nothing to do with your focussing. Nothing at all is sharp in the unsharp pictures.
Only thing I can think of is that perhaps the shake reduction mechanism is not turning on correctly. This could be a problem on older cameras but I doubt it would be a reason on the K3. Perhaps experiment with it on/off.
Perhaps there is a problem with the lens ? You could do some experiments and see.
Other than that I am flummoxed. Anyone else got any ideas ?
Peter
My Flickr page
My Flickr page
Posted 24/04/2018 - 09:21
Link
I have seen similar in my own photographs particularly in rural settings, which I have shrugged off as the vagaries of Pentax auto-focussing in low contrast scenes. I perhaps unfairly malign my 16-45 as it is capable in the right conditions but dull-ish light at Blea Moor on the Settle Carlisle railway are not they!
Peter
Pentax K5
Pentax DA 18-55 Mk1, 50-200 (Samsung), 16-45, 55-300 Mk1, 35 f/2.4
Pentax MZ6 + FA28-90, FA50 f/1.4, M 50 f/1.7
Tamron 80-210mm & 28mm
Pentax K5
Pentax DA 18-55 Mk1, 50-200 (Samsung), 16-45, 55-300 Mk1, 35 f/2.4
Pentax MZ6 + FA28-90, FA50 f/1.4, M 50 f/1.7
Tamron 80-210mm & 28mm
Posted 24/04/2018 - 11:53
Link
Just had a look at the photos on Flikr and all those I saw don't look sharp at all. You need to try and identify the culprit. Is it the camera or a specific lens.
Try taking the same shot of something with one lens on both the K-3 and K-5. If one camera's image is fine and the other not that would suggest a camera body problem.
If having identified a camera problem, it could be the camera's focus adjustment has gone out or the shake reduction has gone awry. Try turning that off and try again. Really its just a matter of troubleshooting.
If it isn't a camera problem try repeating a shot with different lenses to see if one particular lens gone out of alignment.
See how you go with those suggestions to narrow down the problem and report back if that solves it or still leaves you with a problem! If a problem remains I anticipate visiting someone at Bolton fairly soon so maybe I could have a look or perhaps someone local could help (JR?) However see how you go troubleshooting first.
Try taking the same shot of something with one lens on both the K-3 and K-5. If one camera's image is fine and the other not that would suggest a camera body problem.
If having identified a camera problem, it could be the camera's focus adjustment has gone out or the shake reduction has gone awry. Try turning that off and try again. Really its just a matter of troubleshooting.
If it isn't a camera problem try repeating a shot with different lenses to see if one particular lens gone out of alignment.
See how you go with those suggestions to narrow down the problem and report back if that solves it or still leaves you with a problem! If a problem remains I anticipate visiting someone at Bolton fairly soon so maybe I could have a look or perhaps someone local could help (JR?) However see how you go troubleshooting first.
John K
Posted 25/04/2018 - 22:51
Link
Thanks for the replies everyone, as suggested I am going to troubleshoot the problem and I will let you know how that works out.
Just a thought but does using a high shutter speed with SR switched on cause a problem?
Just a thought but does using a high shutter speed with SR switched on cause a problem?
Flickr
DA AL 35mm f2.4, K3,18-135 WR, DA 55-300, Pentax KX, K5 x 2, 18-50 50-200 kit lenses, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Fuji X10, 2x Mamiya 1000s 2x 80mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5, 210mm f4, Yashica 124G TLR, 2x Yashica FX3 Super 2000, Tamron 28mm f2.8, 90mm SP f2.5, 135mm f2.5, Olympus 35RC, 2x Yashica FX2, Kodak Pocket Instamatic, Kodak Box Brownie
DA AL 35mm f2.4, K3,18-135 WR, DA 55-300, Pentax KX, K5 x 2, 18-50 50-200 kit lenses, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Fuji X10, 2x Mamiya 1000s 2x 80mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5, 210mm f4, Yashica 124G TLR, 2x Yashica FX3 Super 2000, Tamron 28mm f2.8, 90mm SP f2.5, 135mm f2.5, Olympus 35RC, 2x Yashica FX2, Kodak Pocket Instamatic, Kodak Box Brownie
Posted 26/04/2018 - 02:20
Link
sportyman531 wrote:
Just a thought but does using a high shutter speed with SR switched on cause a problem?
I've heard these rumours over the years too.Just a thought but does using a high shutter speed with SR switched on cause a problem?
If there was any particular combo that caused an issue, then personally I'd hope Pentax have addressed this in the firmware.
Posted 26/04/2018 - 02:23
Link
As others have said though, you need to test with other components to rule out either the camera (nothings sharp ever) or the lens (not sharp when I use this lens).
There is some adjustment capability in camera, but if it requires an adjustment beyond the camera limits, then you need to have the lens serviced.
Usual technique aspects apply. Hold camera still when shooting, have a sufficient shutter speed for the subject matter/focal length, use lens in it's strength areas (some are not ideal in certain apertures - either too large or too small, and zooms tend to be better in the middle/towards one end and not the other etc).
There is some adjustment capability in camera, but if it requires an adjustment beyond the camera limits, then you need to have the lens serviced.
Usual technique aspects apply. Hold camera still when shooting, have a sufficient shutter speed for the subject matter/focal length, use lens in it's strength areas (some are not ideal in certain apertures - either too large or too small, and zooms tend to be better in the middle/towards one end and not the other etc).
Posted 26/04/2018 - 04:23
Link
sportyman531 wrote:
Just a thought but does using a high shutter speed with SR switched on cause a problem?
I have never noticed this using the K1.
Just a thought but does using a high shutter speed with SR switched on cause a problem?
Peter
My Flickr page
My Flickr page
Posted 26/04/2018 - 08:05
Link
SR is designed for around 1/30th sec. or slower. It usually doesn't have much effect at high speeds. I once saw some tests on a website that showed this applied to all makes.
--
--
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Add Comment
To leave a comment - Log in to Pentax User or create a new account.


159 posts
15 years
Ramsbottom,
Bury,
Lancashire
Going back to what the OP said in the beginning, I am not convinced that once the focus has been set (either by shutter or AF button) that the camera will maintain that focus position. i.e. on my K5, I think the focus position will move.
Stephen, can you confirm if you used the AF button to pre-focus?
DA AL 35mm f2.4, K3,18-135 WR, DA 55-300, Pentax KX, K5 x 2, 18-50 50-200 kit lenses, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Fuji X10, 2x Mamiya 1000s 2x 80mm f2.8, 150mm f3.5, 210mm f4, Yashica 124G TLR, 2x Yashica FX3 Super 2000, Tamron 28mm f2.8, 90mm SP f2.5, 135mm f2.5, Olympus 35RC, 2x Yashica FX2, Kodak Pocket Instamatic, Kodak Box Brownie