Cracked lens hood on my DA*!
Posted 04/05/2010 - 15:25
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Which lens hood? You'll find they're quite expensive!
Posted 04/05/2010 - 15:46
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Ah good point, it's the DA* 50-135mm hood.
K-5; Siggy 10-20 f4, 30mm f1.4, 18-50mm f2.8, 70-200mm f2.8; Tammy 400mm f4, 500mm f8
Posted 04/05/2010 - 15:49
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Thought so! Had the same problem! They're around £20 from SRS, Park, etc.
Guess the issue is, does it stay on, and work?
Guess the issue is, does it stay on, and work?
Posted 04/05/2010 - 15:58
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Bah, I just super glued it, good as new but looks slightly less pretty, but its on the inside. Now to just keep my fingers apart for the next bit so they don't bond together ...
K-5; Siggy 10-20 f4, 30mm f1.4, 18-50mm f2.8, 70-200mm f2.8; Tammy 400mm f4, 500mm f8
Posted 04/05/2010 - 15:59
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JohnX wrote:
Thought so! Had the same problem! They're around £20 from SRS, Park, etc.
Guess the issue is, does it stay on, and work?
Hrm, wish I read that b4 I glued myself / the hood But yeah, exact same problem. It just doesn't click / hold in place. Hopefully the glue will fix 'er.
Thought so! Had the same problem! They're around £20 from SRS, Park, etc.
Guess the issue is, does it stay on, and work?
K-5; Siggy 10-20 f4, 30mm f1.4, 18-50mm f2.8, 70-200mm f2.8; Tammy 400mm f4, 500mm f8
Posted 04/05/2010 - 16:17
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I'd love to know how to keep a hood intact - I've not dared take the one for my 12-24 anywhere except locally as I can't see how to prevent it getting potentially squished / broken in transit, even with a padded camera bag...?
Maybe I will steal a tupperwear box from the kitchen...
Maybe I will steal a tupperwear box from the kitchen...
Still shooting in the dark (literally and metaphorically)...
Posted 04/05/2010 - 16:19
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Its ok, nobody elses apart from mine seems to break so you are quite safe flossie.
Posted 04/05/2010 - 16:25
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I would glue that with some good glue specially for plastic, glue is very strong so it would hold easily.
Posted 04/05/2010 - 16:47
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I used superglue on mine but it keeps coming apart. I will have to reinforce it on the inside. Perhaps polystyrene cement might prove better but i doubt it. The problem is that the surfaces are so thin and not entirely rigid.
Regards Pete
Regards Pete
Posted 04/05/2010 - 17:20
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Same problem with my DA50-135, in fact I think it arrived in that condition, the damn things are so flimsy.
Anyway, get yourself down to a local craft shop and buy some milliput, if you cant find it chaep then buy some from me link
Mix a tiny amount up and smooth it into the gap behind the part thats cracked, mine has been OK now for the past 18 months and locks on just fine
Give me some time and I'll post a pic of my repair.
PS, Milliput is the best thing since sliced bread for reapirs to things around the house.
Anyway, get yourself down to a local craft shop and buy some milliput, if you cant find it chaep then buy some from me link
Mix a tiny amount up and smooth it into the gap behind the part thats cracked, mine has been OK now for the past 18 months and locks on just fine
Give me some time and I'll post a pic of my repair.
PS, Milliput is the best thing since sliced bread for reapirs to things around the house.
Posted 04/05/2010 - 17:46
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Heres the pic of the repair, doesn't really stand out like it does here.
The milliput will dry rock hard and adhere to the plastic around it so the repair will be permanent. touch it up with a bit of black paint if your bothered about the green.
If you decide to try this have a play with the Milliput first, it smooths out very well if you wet it.
[IMG]http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j168/impotentspider/_K200202.jpg[/IMG]
The milliput will dry rock hard and adhere to the plastic around it so the repair will be permanent. touch it up with a bit of black paint if your bothered about the green.
If you decide to try this have a play with the Milliput first, it smooths out very well if you wet it.
[IMG]http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j168/impotentspider/_K200202.jpg[/IMG]
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