All Forum Comments
Comment by zeroastigmatism posted on Few from the zoo at 09/04/2013 - 17:11
Hi
Tried my first live (or in this case dead) macro subject. A Woodlouse. Subject measures 5mm in length (a small Woodlouse). Ordinary daylight. Lens is a reversed Russian Zenitar 50mm f/1.7. Aperture is f/11. Camera set to 200 ASA. Exposure is 1/6th.
Would appreciate feedback on how improve on this technique. Haven't used flash yet as I need to find a way of lighting that doesn't cast a shadow of the lens extension over the subject. Might try a white paper reflector.
Regards
Za
Tried my first live (or in this case dead) macro subject. A Woodlouse. Subject measures 5mm in length (a small Woodlouse). Ordinary daylight. Lens is a reversed Russian Zenitar 50mm f/1.7. Aperture is f/11. Camera set to 200 ASA. Exposure is 1/6th.
Would appreciate feedback on how improve on this technique. Haven't used flash yet as I need to find a way of lighting that doesn't cast a shadow of the lens extension over the subject. Might try a white paper reflector.
Regards
Za
Comment by zeroastigmatism posted on Macro at 09/04/2013 - 16:27
Hi
First ever macro uploaded to Gallery. Nothing special, just a bell. Have compressed image to a smaller file size, wasn't sure what file sizes are permitted in the gallery.
Will now turn my attention to properly lit subjects.
Za
First ever macro uploaded to Gallery. Nothing special, just a bell. Have compressed image to a smaller file size, wasn't sure what file sizes are permitted in the gallery.
Will now turn my attention to properly lit subjects.
Za
Comment by zeroastigmatism posted on Macro at 05/04/2013 - 15:42
Hi Mike
More excellent shots. Those tiny jumping spiders seem to be a popular subject for macro photographers.
On the Macro ring it ends in 1:2.
I have a Tamron SP type 2X converter I can use if that will be useful?
Za
More excellent shots. Those tiny jumping spiders seem to be a popular subject for macro photographers.
Quote:
Is the manual focus Tamron 90mm macro a 1:1 or 1:2 version?
Is the manual focus Tamron 90mm macro a 1:1 or 1:2 version?
On the Macro ring it ends in 1:2.
I have a Tamron SP type 2X converter I can use if that will be useful?
Za
Comment by zeroastigmatism posted on Macro at 04/04/2013 - 16:01
davidstorm wrote:
Hi again Chris, lots of questions there!
Firstly, you have some kit that will take stunning macro shots. My first port of call would be the Pentax 50mm F1.7 or the Tamron 90mm SP. Both will be super-sharp performers, good for close up work. I would make the following recommendations:
1) Get yourself some extension tubes - don't buy the very cheap Chinese made ones; you can get excellent quality used Vivitar or similar at many retailers for around £15 a set (try ffordes.com)
2) If you don't have a flashgun, get a cheap, powerful manual one (Neewer or Yongnuo would be good) and make a flash diffuser out of used Pringles Tubes. I have made several of these, both single and double-headers and they provide excellent diffused flashlight with no shadows - perfect for great macros. You need a powerful flash as you will need to shoot at least F11, preferably F16 or so to get enough depth of field so a lot of light is necessary
3) Buy a reversing ring for a couple of quid so you can reverse the 50mm F1.7 directly onto your Pentax Bayonet. You will need to manually set the aperture before shooting and you will find focussing difficult in the extreme but you get used to it with practice. Again, use a narrow aperture for best DOF
When I shoot macros, I usually try to get a composition, rather than aiming for extreme close-ups, but that's more to do with my style of shooting than anything else. See below for a few shots, the first was with a reversed Pentax-A 50mm F1.7 in natural light, the second is with a Sigma 105mm F2.8 DG EX Macro lens with a full 68mm of Extension Tubes and the Pringles Tube flash diffuser, the third was in natural light, with a SMC Takumar 135mm F3.5 and Extension Tubes.
Hope this is useful. BTW, the depth of field in the second shot is so narrow because of the length of extension tubes used. This effect was intentional as I wanted to create something a bit abstract, but with the fly's eye in sharp focus.
Regards
David
Hi DavidHi again Chris, lots of questions there!
Firstly, you have some kit that will take stunning macro shots. My first port of call would be the Pentax 50mm F1.7 or the Tamron 90mm SP. Both will be super-sharp performers, good for close up work. I would make the following recommendations:
1) Get yourself some extension tubes - don't buy the very cheap Chinese made ones; you can get excellent quality used Vivitar or similar at many retailers for around £15 a set (try ffordes.com)
2) If you don't have a flashgun, get a cheap, powerful manual one (Neewer or Yongnuo would be good) and make a flash diffuser out of used Pringles Tubes. I have made several of these, both single and double-headers and they provide excellent diffused flashlight with no shadows - perfect for great macros. You need a powerful flash as you will need to shoot at least F11, preferably F16 or so to get enough depth of field so a lot of light is necessary
3) Buy a reversing ring for a couple of quid so you can reverse the 50mm F1.7 directly onto your Pentax Bayonet. You will need to manually set the aperture before shooting and you will find focussing difficult in the extreme but you get used to it with practice. Again, use a narrow aperture for best DOF
When I shoot macros, I usually try to get a composition, rather than aiming for extreme close-ups, but that's more to do with my style of shooting than anything else. See below for a few shots, the first was with a reversed Pentax-A 50mm F1.7 in natural light, the second is with a Sigma 105mm F2.8 DG EX Macro lens with a full 68mm of Extension Tubes and the Pringles Tube flash diffuser, the third was in natural light, with a SMC Takumar 135mm F3.5 and Extension Tubes.
Hope this is useful. BTW, the depth of field in the second shot is so narrow because of the length of extension tubes used. This effect was intentional as I wanted to create something a bit abstract, but with the fly's eye in sharp focus.
Regards
David
Some excellent images here! The first one taken with a 1.7 50mm is probably the sort of thing I will try first. By Pringle tube I assume you mean a white semi-opaque end to a tube? If so I have a few Single Malt whisky empty tubes which I can use with perhaps some paper over the end as a diffuser?
I have an Osram flash tower from the 90s which still worked last time I used it.
I will try the Tamron 90mm and the Pentax 50mm reversed first and experiment. Thanks for you help.
Za
Comment by zeroastigmatism posted on Macro at 04/04/2013 - 13:50
Hi
http://budgetlightforum.com/forum/batteries/rechargeable[/quote]
Za
gwing wrote:
"Ooomph!" which can't be measured on a meter. I used to use
Sanyo Cadnica's and Panasonic NiMh (Made in Japan) on a
*istDS without any problems. Sanyo Eneloops are about the
closest nowadays. http://www.vapextech.co.uk/ are also good.
Ricehigh has quite a bit about AA's in a K-x on his site
http://ricehigh.blogspot.com/2011/09/k-x-battery-issue-re-visited-with.html
'
A *lot* more than you ever wanted to know about available batteries.Algernon wrote:
K200D AA Battery Types
Q: What type of batteries can be used with the K200D
A: The K200D can be powered by four AA lithium batteries, four AA Ni-MH rechargeable batteries or four AA alkaline batteries. Note: Use of AA alkaline batteries is not rcommended except for emergency use or checking the camera's functionality.
To work properly the batteries need plenty of "Welly!" andjamieallan wrote:
[quote:3496ace15f="Algernon"]Oh yes it can!
Any chance you can expand on that? According to the manual NiMH should work and certainly so if they are freshly charged and almost new. Also if eneloops are needed what capacity (mAh)are required to make it work? The Pentax Support site simply states :-[quote:3496ace15f="Algernon"]Oh yes it can!
K200D AA Battery Types
Q: What type of batteries can be used with the K200D
A: The K200D can be powered by four AA lithium batteries, four AA Ni-MH rechargeable batteries or four AA alkaline batteries. Note: Use of AA alkaline batteries is not rcommended except for emergency use or checking the camera's functionality.
"Ooomph!" which can't be measured on a meter. I used to use
Sanyo Cadnica's and Panasonic NiMh (Made in Japan) on a
*istDS without any problems. Sanyo Eneloops are about the
closest nowadays. http://www.vapextech.co.uk/ are also good.
Ricehigh has quite a bit about AA's in a K-x on his site
http://ricehigh.blogspot.com/2011/09/k-x-battery-issue-re-visited-with.html
'
http://budgetlightforum.com/forum/batteries/rechargeable[/quote]
andrewk wrote:
Andrew
It always amazes me how people get to find out about websites like these. Every time I search for interesting stuff when I need it I never seem to find it Algernon wrote:
Sanyo Eneloops are about the
closest nowadays
I've used Uniross Hybrios in a K200D for some years. They work fine. They also beat Eneloops in the tests I've seen.Sanyo Eneloops are about the
closest nowadays
Andrew
Za
Comment by zeroastigmatism posted on Firmware problem at 04/04/2013 - 13:22
Hi
Fairly new to this Pentax user group. Had a power issue sorted for me on another Forum this week. Thought someone would be able to advise on another area that interests me.
I want to try some Macro shots. The equipment I have available for this is somewhat modest and I would like some tips from experienced Macro imagers.
I have a Kx dSLR, a Tamron 90mm SP manual lens, a Tamron 70-210 f/3.5, a Pentax 35 - 105 f/3.5, a Pentax 50mm f/1.7 and another at f/2, a Pentax 28mm f/3.5, and various Russian prime lenses of between 35mm and 58mm. All of these are manual focus. The two auto/manual focus lenses I have are the kit lens with the camera (18mm - 55mm), and a nice 15mm f/4.
I have coupling rings for the Tamron 70-210 to any of the Pentax 50mm or 28mm lenses so I can reverse connect the shorter lens. I also have some Russian bellows.
What are the dos and donts regarding successful Macro, and which set up is likely to give me the best results? Thanks
Za
Fairly new to this Pentax user group. Had a power issue sorted for me on another Forum this week. Thought someone would be able to advise on another area that interests me.
I want to try some Macro shots. The equipment I have available for this is somewhat modest and I would like some tips from experienced Macro imagers.
I have a Kx dSLR, a Tamron 90mm SP manual lens, a Tamron 70-210 f/3.5, a Pentax 35 - 105 f/3.5, a Pentax 50mm f/1.7 and another at f/2, a Pentax 28mm f/3.5, and various Russian prime lenses of between 35mm and 58mm. All of these are manual focus. The two auto/manual focus lenses I have are the kit lens with the camera (18mm - 55mm), and a nice 15mm f/4.
I have coupling rings for the Tamron 70-210 to any of the Pentax 50mm or 28mm lenses so I can reverse connect the shorter lens. I also have some Russian bellows.
What are the dos and donts regarding successful Macro, and which set up is likely to give me the best results? Thanks
Za
Comment by zeroastigmatism posted on Macro at 03/04/2013 - 23:34
Hi Jamie
It appears from my experience this week that as far as Pentax dSLRs are concerned, there are AA batteries and there are AA batteries. The chemistry of the Lithium, NiMH and Alkaline batteries appears to determine whether they are going to be suitable for camera use, or even if they are, how long from new they will last before giving the dreaded Battery Depleted sign or simply not powering the camera up at all.
My experience with a 100D Super and a Kx is that they don't like alkaline AAs, they do like Lithium Energizer AAs - initially, until there is less voltage available after a relatively short term of use, or you are unlucky enough to get lower voltage one new out of a pack. New fully charged Energizer Lithium non-rechargables will be fine. Eneloops appear to be the battery of choice. So far (I am touching wood as I write), they have not let me down. This is particularly strange as they are only 1.3v fully charged! I can only imagine that there is a major drop in voltage and /or current with the Alkaline and other metal batteries once under load, or rather that this drop is severe enough for the sensitive electronics in a dSLR camera to stop functioning properly. The Eneloops appear not to have this loss problem.
Here's a thought - There are power stations available (portable 12v DC lead acid battery types, from Argos, Halfords etc) and some of them have 6v DC outlets. I wonder how these cameras would respond to 6v from a Lead acid battery?
Za
It appears from my experience this week that as far as Pentax dSLRs are concerned, there are AA batteries and there are AA batteries. The chemistry of the Lithium, NiMH and Alkaline batteries appears to determine whether they are going to be suitable for camera use, or even if they are, how long from new they will last before giving the dreaded Battery Depleted sign or simply not powering the camera up at all.
My experience with a 100D Super and a Kx is that they don't like alkaline AAs, they do like Lithium Energizer AAs - initially, until there is less voltage available after a relatively short term of use, or you are unlucky enough to get lower voltage one new out of a pack. New fully charged Energizer Lithium non-rechargables will be fine. Eneloops appear to be the battery of choice. So far (I am touching wood as I write), they have not let me down. This is particularly strange as they are only 1.3v fully charged! I can only imagine that there is a major drop in voltage and /or current with the Alkaline and other metal batteries once under load, or rather that this drop is severe enough for the sensitive electronics in a dSLR camera to stop functioning properly. The Eneloops appear not to have this loss problem.
Here's a thought - There are power stations available (portable 12v DC lead acid battery types, from Argos, Halfords etc) and some of them have 6v DC outlets. I wonder how these cameras would respond to 6v from a Lead acid battery?
Za
Comment by zeroastigmatism posted on Firmware problem at 03/04/2013 - 23:06
JohnX
You may be right (life's too short). Tried the manual battery setting, set it to lithium. No difference.
K10D
Thanks for the excellent link. I think I was probably thinking along the wrong lines. Went out this morning and bought another set of Lithiums - Energizers. They work! That leaves the question, why don't the first new set of identical batteries work? They have only been used to power a few shots plus a couple of short (30 seconds) movies.
The battery life indicator on the camera showed green before the update. Is the camera measuring battery voltage passive? I guess it would have to be. Surely a green battery indicator should signal there is enough power to use the camera normally.
Ah well, at least my camera is working again. Thanks for your help guys.
Za
You may be right (life's too short). Tried the manual battery setting, set it to lithium. No difference.
K10D
Thanks for the excellent link. I think I was probably thinking along the wrong lines. Went out this morning and bought another set of Lithiums - Energizers. They work! That leaves the question, why don't the first new set of identical batteries work? They have only been used to power a few shots plus a couple of short (30 seconds) movies.
The battery life indicator on the camera showed green before the update. Is the camera measuring battery voltage passive? I guess it would have to be. Surely a green battery indicator should signal there is enough power to use the camera normally.
Ah well, at least my camera is working again. Thanks for your help guys.
Za
Comment by zeroastigmatism posted on Firmware problem at 03/04/2013 - 12:40
Hi David
I downloaded the 1.03 file again and dropped it onto my SD card. Went through the sequence again and the camera came back on again afterwards (eneloops powered the procedure). Version 1.03 is installed on the camera. Took the eneloops out and placed the Energizer batteries in. Camera is dead. Bearing in mind that these set of four lithium Energizers had powered my camera for a few days prior to the update without any problems. I have taken movie shots through a telescope and various stills with this set. The battery indicator showed green prior to the update. They still measure over 1.5v each, even though they won't fire the camera up.
If the camera is not meant to work with Alkaline or Lithium AA batteries, then they shouldn't work at all. Pentax don't make any mention of only using eneloops or NiMH batteries, they just say AA batteries.
I would like a good explanation of why certain battery chemistry types won't work, when all they are doing is producing the same voltage. My feeling is that the firmware and electronics must have a reaction to certain battery chemistry, even though the chemistry of the battery should not interact with the camera (unless it leaks). What is important is the voltage under load and the amps. If a certain battery chemistry fires the camera without problems, but fails to power the camera after two updates, the only thing that has changed is the firmware.
This is a reaction to the battery by the camera, not the wrong battery being used. I still maintain that the firmware/hardware combination is causing this issue. I would like to hear any other plausible reasons for this issue. Maybe I have overlooked something simple, or maybe there is a more in-depth test of a battery I can undertake. Any ideas? Thanks for the replies so far.
I downloaded the 1.03 file again and dropped it onto my SD card. Went through the sequence again and the camera came back on again afterwards (eneloops powered the procedure). Version 1.03 is installed on the camera. Took the eneloops out and placed the Energizer batteries in. Camera is dead. Bearing in mind that these set of four lithium Energizers had powered my camera for a few days prior to the update without any problems. I have taken movie shots through a telescope and various stills with this set. The battery indicator showed green prior to the update. They still measure over 1.5v each, even though they won't fire the camera up.
If the camera is not meant to work with Alkaline or Lithium AA batteries, then they shouldn't work at all. Pentax don't make any mention of only using eneloops or NiMH batteries, they just say AA batteries.
I would like a good explanation of why certain battery chemistry types won't work, when all they are doing is producing the same voltage. My feeling is that the firmware and electronics must have a reaction to certain battery chemistry, even though the chemistry of the battery should not interact with the camera (unless it leaks). What is important is the voltage under load and the amps. If a certain battery chemistry fires the camera without problems, but fails to power the camera after two updates, the only thing that has changed is the firmware.
This is a reaction to the battery by the camera, not the wrong battery being used. I still maintain that the firmware/hardware combination is causing this issue. I would like to hear any other plausible reasons for this issue. Maybe I have overlooked something simple, or maybe there is a more in-depth test of a battery I can undertake. Any ideas? Thanks for the replies so far.
Comment by zeroastigmatism posted on Firmware problem at 03/04/2013 - 01:00
Some good images here. #4 and #6 are the best to my eyes.
Za