A nice example of this award winning camera, but of course, it is also extremely common! This one looks in nice condition but will need the seals done, as always. I have paired it with an excellent example of the classic M series 50mm f/1.7 lens. It has to go as this is my fifth example of this camera.

A bargain at £40 plus postage. The lens sometimes sells for that alone. Paypal (buyer picking up the fees), bank transfer or cheque.










Cheers, Kris.

This is a lovely example of the MX with no dents I can see in the top plate which is very unusual. There is a slight nick in the leatherette in one corner which I show in one of the images. The seals will need changing, as always. The 50mm lens is in pretty much prefect nick.

I'm selling this one as my "user" MX had been serviced before I got this one. A bargain at £70 plus postage. Paypal (with buyer paying fees), bank transfer or cheque.
















Cheers, Kris.

I'm selling off some of my duplicates to fund buying another lens...

First up is a Super Multi Coated Takumar 135mm f/3.5 lens in ecellent condition. Comes with front and rear cap. The front cap has a bit of the lining felt missing and can scratch the lens barrel if one is not careful so I am leaving a Hoya Skylight filter on the lens.

£30 plus postage. Bank transfer, paypal (with buyer picking up the fees) or cheque.
















Thanks, Kris.

A while ago my K20D had a mishap and off it went for repair. Took two attempts, but repaired it was. Since then, I've never been that happy with it. For example, the katzeye split screen which used to work ever so well no longer agrees with the green hexagon, and neither seem to give the sharpest image. With AF lenses, they never seem to be as crisp as they used to be. For example, my 12-24mm is a super sharp lens but now there is an indefinable something not quite right.

Any ideas as to the best way of checking what is happening? Assume tripod, mirror-up, and cable release as given. Perhaps all my AF lenses need adjustment? The repair reset everything to factory defaults. Use the DA43 as the test lens? What about manual focus? Perhaps the screen needs re-shimming but how does one test an MF lens? And which one? The M85/2 is pretty sharp, or perhaps the K50/1.2 or M50/1.7?

Any ideas welcome. At the moment I am spending a fortune on film partly because I am getting sharper, better images than the K20D is giving me (but also because I love using my film cameras ).

Thanks, Kris.

It is a pretty easy job usually, any competent repair guy should be able to do it.

Off topic I know (I'll get my wrists slapped!), but how do you like the 30/2.8? It is one of those "legendary" lenses and I'm curious if it lives up to its reputation. BTW, you're very local to me; I know Welwyn extremely well.

K.

It's weatherproof so enjoy it whatever the weather...

I have the 28 and the 50 already and both are excellent. The 135mm tempts me but I already have five 135mm lenses...

K.

Hi Steve,

I've seen the original poster but I haven't seen the protest version. I've been thinking of doing something similar with brownstone stoops in NYC too.

Best wishes, Kris.

Ultra wides are never very forgiving. Being so wide they often encompass a wide variety of light making metering a challenge (although using the histogram helps a great deal), the "stretching" effect at the edges can make or kill a shot, the slightest tilt shows up as converging or diverging verticals... But, with a bit of experience and knowing when they will produce a good shot, they can be great to use. For example, in the absence of a Pentax shift lens wide enough for use on APSC, I often use my 12-24mm lens for photographing buildings but throw away almost half the image to avoid converging verticals.

Best wishes, Kris.

... and almost certainly better quality. Copy slides are rarely as good as the originals even with specialist copy slide film. I'm not certain I have ever seen specialist neg to slide film.

K.