Testing for sharpness and that sort of thing
Posted 05/07/2012 - 01:10
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K20 has a live view. use that
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 05/07/2012 - 01:11
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Excuse my ignorance, but what actually focusses on what and how?
I mean, if the focal length was nudged from a fall or other mishap the AF would still focus the optics, otherwise AF would never lock on, right?.
I'm good and ready to be proven completely wrong, but optically, as I see it - focus is focus regardless of something is a bit 'out', after all - if you manually focus, and it's sharp then this is the light which is hitting the sensor isn't it?
I mean, if the focal length was nudged from a fall or other mishap the AF would still focus the optics, otherwise AF would never lock on, right?.
I'm good and ready to be proven completely wrong, but optically, as I see it - focus is focus regardless of something is a bit 'out', after all - if you manually focus, and it's sharp then this is the light which is hitting the sensor isn't it?
Posted 05/07/2012 - 02:51
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Womble:
1] on your tripod, use live view magnified to accurately manual focus ( Live view magnified on the K20D is pixellated but you can still focus accurately in msot conditions )
2] with moving anything exit Live View use the view finder to see if your split screen and/or focus confirmation agrees with this. if not then you'll have to either re-shim your screen and/or AF fine tune for your lenses.
Sledger: Sorry mate I couldn't understand a word of that
1] on your tripod, use live view magnified to accurately manual focus ( Live view magnified on the K20D is pixellated but you can still focus accurately in msot conditions )
2] with moving anything exit Live View use the view finder to see if your split screen and/or focus confirmation agrees with this. if not then you'll have to either re-shim your screen and/or AF fine tune for your lenses.
Sledger: Sorry mate I couldn't understand a word of that
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 05/07/2012 - 03:06
Link
Never mind.
Posted 05/07/2012 - 03:42
Link
OK
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 05/07/2012 - 07:21
Link
sledger wrote:
Excuse my ignorance, but what actually focusses on what and how?
I mean, if the focal length was nudged from a fall or other mishap the AF would still focus the optics, otherwise AF would never lock on, right?.
I'm good and ready to be proven completely wrong, but optically, as I see it - focus is focus regardless of something is a bit 'out', after all - if you manually focus, and it's sharp then this is the light which is hitting the sensor isn't it?
I think that maybe you are overlooking that when focussing by any method the focus is (I believe) taken off the focussing screen while the mirror is down. Therefore if the screen has moved slightly during the repair what is sharp on the screen may not be sharp on the sensor as they no longer 'match'. I don't know if that helps (or is indeed correct).Excuse my ignorance, but what actually focusses on what and how?
I mean, if the focal length was nudged from a fall or other mishap the AF would still focus the optics, otherwise AF would never lock on, right?.
I'm good and ready to be proven completely wrong, but optically, as I see it - focus is focus regardless of something is a bit 'out', after all - if you manually focus, and it's sharp then this is the light which is hitting the sensor isn't it?
Mike
---------------------------------------------------
You can see some of my shots at my Flickr account.
You can see some of my shots at my Flickr account.
Posted 05/07/2012 - 08:22
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Thank you,
That would makes sense if as you say it is correct - though it sounds quite plausible.
I'm not familiar with the way the camera works 'internally' - only the basics of picture taking from an operators perspective.
Helpful responses such as yours, Mike are always welcome - thanks.
That would makes sense if as you say it is correct - though it sounds quite plausible.
I'm not familiar with the way the camera works 'internally' - only the basics of picture taking from an operators perspective.
Helpful responses such as yours, Mike are always welcome - thanks.
Posted 06/07/2012 - 02:13
Link
Pentax ( and most other DSLRs I believe ) cameras have the AF sensor in the bottom of the camera. The centre of the mirror is half silvered and there's a secondary mirror behind the main mirror which directs some of the light down to the AF sensor. For this it doesn't matter where the focus screen is positioned.
this shows how it works
http://graphics.stanford.edu/courses/cs178/applets/autofocusPD.html
Manually focussing through the viewfinder and indeed the position of the focus screen is to be accurate.
The most accurate method of focussing ( Manual or AF ) is through the main sensor in live view as that's pure WYSIWYG
this shows how it works
http://graphics.stanford.edu/courses/cs178/applets/autofocusCD.html
this shows how it works
http://graphics.stanford.edu/courses/cs178/applets/autofocusPD.html
Manually focussing through the viewfinder and indeed the position of the focus screen is to be accurate.
The most accurate method of focussing ( Manual or AF ) is through the main sensor in live view as that's pure WYSIWYG
this shows how it works
http://graphics.stanford.edu/courses/cs178/applets/autofocusCD.html
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 06/07/2012 - 02:34
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Thanks..
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7676 posts
18 years
Hertfordshire,
mostly.
Any ideas as to the best way of checking what is happening? Assume tripod, mirror-up, and cable release as given. Perhaps all my AF lenses need adjustment? The repair reset everything to factory defaults. Use the DA43 as the test lens? What about manual focus? Perhaps the screen needs re-shimming but how does one test an MF lens? And which one? The M85/2 is pretty sharp, or perhaps the K50/1.2 or M50/1.7?
Any ideas welcome. At the moment I am spending a fortune on film partly because I am getting sharper, better images than the K20D is giving me (but also because I love using my film cameras ).
Thanks, Kris.
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.