Never mind. I finally got it done. I had four of these pins to remove. Two came out quite easily with just some light tapping with a punch, but the other two were an absolute nightmare. Nothing I tried budged these two pins, leading me to post this thread. Drilling was always an option, but I dreaded the notion of potentially damaging the studs. I later discovered these two pins (with associated studs) were glued into place, with some incredibly tough glue. In the end, I simply gave up and worked with the other two.

stewart

Does anyone know how to efficiently remove the small metal locking pin fitted into the mounting studs of most lightstands and booms. Both the pin and stud are apparently made of brass.

In my case, the pin itself is unimportant, so I don't really care if it's destroyed during removal. However, I certainly don't want to damage the stud or the lightstand this pin is attached to.

Thanks for your kind assistance.

stewart

Okay, I'll try to simply things for you, Spamcan. There are two primary considerations when buying a new SD card. The first is the memory card capacity of the camera. The K100D supports both SD and SDHC memory cards. The SD memory card standard supports a maximum of 2 GB while the SDHC memory card standard supports a maximum of 32 GB. The non-standard SD cards exceeding 2 GB are not recommended due to potential compatibility problems. So, theoretically, your K100D supports memory cards up to a maximum of 32 GB.

Your second consideration is compatibility with the SD card reader on your computer. Older card readers will not support the SDHC standard while newer card readers will often support both SD and SDHC memory cards. Therefore, you need to establish which of these standards your specific card reader will support and purchase a card compatible with that.

After those two, pretty much everything else is a matter of your budget and desires. Larger capacity cards obviously cost more than lower capacity cards. Further, current SD and SDHC cards are rated by their minimum sustainable write speeds of 2 MB/s (Class 2), 4 MB/s (Class 4), and 6 MB/s (Class 6), and typical maximum write speeds of 0.9 MB/s (6x), 6.0 MB/s (40x), 10.0 MB/s (66x), and 20.0 MB/s (133x), with faster cards usually costing more than slower cards. Which you buy is entirely your choice.

stewart

Before this tread disappears even further into oblivion, does anyone know what type of plug is used with the power pack socket on the Pentax AF540FGZ flash units - name, brand, or source?

If anyone has the TR Power Pack III, a couple of good images of that plug would be very helpful as well.

stewart

I don't think so. If you look carefully at these two images, you'll notice the rear strap of the harness attaches to a strap on the back of the belt (directly in the centre). Without this same strap & ring attachment on your belt, you would have no method to attach the rear strap for the harness.

By the way, since a camera bag is real tough on the shoulders, I'm considering the same setup to carry my gear. So do please let me know how well this belt/harness combination works in the real world - and how people react when they see you walking down a city street wearing this.

stewart

No simple little test is going to truly establish whether a camera is fully compatible with a linear polarizer in all metering and focusing situations. That requires extensive testing under various conditions. The camera manufacturers have done that testing and, following the discovery of occasional metering and focusing issues, now recommend the use of circular polarizers. Not a single camera or filter manufacturer today recommends the use of a linear polarizer with a modern camera.

Of course, there will always be those who feel they know better than the camera and filter manufacturers. But I suggest heeding the recommendations of the manufacturers instead, especially since there is so very little (or no) difference in cost between the two filter types today.

stewart

All that may not necessarily be true today. Since the almost total domination of modern cameras requiring circular polarizers, research and development in linear polarizers has ground to a virtual stop while circular polarizers have continued to advance using more modern glass and coatings. As such, the typical modern circular polarizer today may actually be far superior to the typical linear polarizer.

stewart