SteveT

Joined: 2nd December 2008

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SteveT
Before I read the other comments, I thought that 1 and 2 are a little over saturated. I had a play and prefer No1 with a little less blue and yellow.
Nice shots though and just my opinion of course

Comment by SteveT posted on Cragside at 01/03/2009 - 17:19

SteveT
After much research, I bought the Sigma 100-300 F4 after considering the 150-500. The reviews came out better on IQ. Although obviously losing out on the length for wildlife shots I decided the 100-300 was a more useful lens and I often carry it whilst walking for long landscape shots, though i admit I haven't used it a lot yet.
I also bought a x1.4 converter which gives 420mm.
The use I have given it shows that I nearly always use it at 300mm, so perhaps a DA*300 would have been a better purchase, though I do not regret having the zoom.
I think if I go any bigger though it will be a 500 prime for the pure quality and speed.

Comment by SteveT posted on DA*300 and Sigma 150-500 at 01/03/2009 - 17:10

SteveT
I went through this quandary myself very recently. There does not seem to be a bag in existance that covers your or my requirements.
For myself I needed to be able to carry camera, 2 or three lenses, ND grad filters, tripod plus food drink and waterproofs for a days walk.

After much searching and veering away from LowePro, I nearly went for Tamrac but the tripod carrying straps were extras so I knew i would end up without those and so looked at LowePro again.
Eventually I decided on the LowePro Rover Plus AW linkThis has padded section for camera etc, four or 5 sections for lenses and some other accessory pockets, and a good section for waterproofs etc.

Okay so its not perfect but its the nearest i could find, but if Im doing a serious walk anywhere I still use a proper rucksack and carry my camera in a padded bag.

Comment by SteveT posted on Rucksack recommendations at 22/02/2009 - 21:05

SteveT
I emailed Pentax asking what the safe trigger voltage was on the K20d
This is their answer

Quote:


thank you for your enquiry.

Please contact the manufacturer of the flash guns, because we do not recommend to use lenses or flashs from other manufacturers on the PENTAX devices and are not able to provide you with the requested informations. Please contact the manufacturer and make sure that the flash guns are compatible with the K20D before you are going to use them. Please note that the device will not be covered under warranty if the camera gets a fault because of the foreign flash guns.

We recommend to use original PENTAX devices instead.

I hope that your question has been answered to your satisfaction. Should you have further questions regarding this matter, please do not hesitate to contact us again.

When replying, please make sure this email is included.

With kind regards
Bianca Hoekstra
Well, not altogether a satisfactory answer imo I accept what they say but they could have answered the question

Comment by SteveT posted on Old flash and dslr compatability at 22/01/2009 - 17:13

SteveT
Mike

I dont want it on the camera, I should have said camera triggered I suppose. I wish to use them on the end of a cable

Comment by SteveT posted on Old flash and dslr compatability at 22/01/2009 - 13:39

SteveT
Matt
Thanks, I have since found some useful info on this link which has test voltages for a large number of flashguns and whether they aresafe for EOS cameras, which apparently are more susceptible to damage.

There is also a link to a post by somebody who claims to have contacted pentax about this which says
Quote:
How much flash trigger voltage can a camera take?

Pentax, in reply to an inquiry I made directly to them last year, says their SLRs are safe up to 600 volts, but I have learned from the College of Hard Knocks that the PZ-1 and SF-10 lock up when used with a Vivitar 2800 non-dedicated flash (300 volts), and won't work again unless the battery is removed and the camera allowed to sit a few minutes for the circuitry to reset.

SOME cameras with electronically controlled shutters and programmed flash still used hardwired tungsten flash sync contacts safe to hundreds of volts, example: Pentax LX.

Gene Poon
CA USA
Unfortunately the Vivitar 285 does not have a test voltage on this list but the 2500 does, so maybe I will take a chance on it.

Comment by SteveT posted on Old flash and dslr compatability at 22/01/2009 - 13:17

SteveT
I am led to believe that using certain old flash guns can 'fry' DSLR's.

I have 2 old flashguns that I use for underground photography that are triggered manually and so pose no danger. I have used them once on camera to test them without any problems.
However this was before I new of any dangers, since then I have not done so.
I would like to use on camera flash now though and was wondering if there was any way of knowing which flashes are safe and which are not.
I have a Vivitar 285 which is quite powerful and a Vivitar 2500 which is not.

Steve

Comment by SteveT posted on Old flash and dslr compatability at 22/01/2009 - 10:49

SteveT
Sometimes I have left SR on accidentally and it may heave been on in this example.

Thanks for the link by the way I will give it a go. How does one adjust the lens though?

Comment by SteveT posted on Softness Issue at 14/01/2009 - 15:40

SteveT
Shim I will try and give that a go. Thanks

Hefty
I know the trouble with digital is, everyone thinks they can sell stock images and I am as guilty as anyone. The dissapointment is more about the image quality itself and being lost as to why it is so, and not about whether it is accepted or not. Its a long way back to Spain.

Still, you live and learn.......

Re commission I once bought a budding rock star a pint and he promised to give me 10% of his earnings if he ever 'made it'
Make it he did many years later, he wasn't true to his word though and I haven't seen him since lol

Comment by SteveT posted on Softness Issue at 14/01/2009 - 15:16

SteveT
I have been automatically going for a small aperture when shooting any landscape or anything thats not 'flat' or where I am trying to isolate a subject with a narrow DoF.
I understand hyperfocal distance and so can relate to what you say about wide angles and DoF. At 12mm f5.6 HD is at about 1.3m on the K20d so nearest point in focus is nearer than I am usually going to need. Even at 20mm its only 3.5m

So I guess combining tripod use( I had thought handheld was OK at 1/60th)with wider apertures will hopefuly see some improvement.
I shall try working this way from now on and thanks all for the helpful replies as usual. In particular Hefty and Mattmatic for such in depth information.

Regards
Steve

Comment by SteveT posted on Softness Issue at 14/01/2009 - 14:11

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