I think youd be better off asking that question on the Adobe forum.

^^^^^ I'm with 'im

It makes the highlights stand our more.

Good point you two!!!

Basically.... indoors.... more dust and crap flying about the better

Loving these!! The composition and framing is just brilliant.

Another option for you, is an IR converted camera??? Once processed it creates startlingly ethereal images.

My K20d IR was about 300 quid.

It's pretty much a similar principle to doing them outdoors on days without high humidity. The biggest thing is timing and patience. Basically right place at the right time....

You could actually try it at home. Summer is probably best as the sun is higher in the sky, and stronger.

Leave a small gap in curtains, then wait for the sun to hit them. Morning or evening would be best, but you can do it at anytime.

Camera wise I would set up to underexpose, catching the light is your aim. Forget the metering, take test shots to get it close to what you want. This will then give you a base to shot from in other locations. You can use autobracket shifted more towards unerexposed. Set it to -1 or -2 stops between shots, then shift it towards under. Set it to take 5 shots. This will then also give you the option of a HDR merge. This could improve your results. Another option of using autobracket, is creating a compsite image. One image of the ray combined with an image of the location. Doing these will require a tripod. Its not absolutely necessary, but it will give you better merges.

You will still need to use post processing to enhance the light of the rays.

Once you've mastered this, then head out to a location, that you have already scouted. Then wait for that moment to shoot.

A quick addendum.... if you see images of perfectly symmetrical or spreading light rays. It is a fair bet that is an image created in photoshop. It is relatively easy to achieve.

If it ones that come from behind or through clouds, i find using full or graduated ND filters is best. If it's the ones between trees or some form of landmark, then a day with high humidity is a good start, as you have found out.

You can also use a bit of post processing, to make them stand out more. You'll find most use post processing to enhace the rays.

The images below were taken with filters. Top image I used a Cokin Circular Polariser, with a ND16 filter. The bottom image was with a ND16 hard graduated filter. I took the ND filters out, then metered the foreground with my subject. I then stopped down a couple stops to underexpose a tad. I then put the filter back in, and took the shot. Then in post in post processing, I used a mask to hightlight the rays slighty. The bottom one I fannied with more to make the people stand out.







Mist where the sun starts to break thru is also a good way to get them. This requires much mooching about waiting for the right moment and works well for landmarks and woodland. It also works very well at night with artificial lighting.

Over the past few months, on the odd clear night, I managed to grab some time deep sky imaging. It did also include an attempted session where I had a massive tantrum in my back garden, stomping about whinging about the bloody weather in this country!!! I set up all my kit, started to do some calibration images. I then came out to filnd it had gone cloudy.... even tho those lying barstools called weather forecasters said it would be clear! I was not happy!!

Enough waffling.....

I took images of two images nebula, and one of a supernova remnant. All were processed in PixInsight (sepcialist astro software), with NoiseXterminator, and cleaned up slightly in Adobe Camera RAW.

Gear used - SW EQ6R Pro Equitorial Mount, SVBony SV503 70ED Refractor Telescope with a focal length of 420mm, Founder Field Flattener, ZWO ASI183MC Pro Cooled DSO Camera, ASI120MC-S Guide Camera & SV165 Mini Guide Scope, ASIair Pro (this is a msall computer that controls the cameras and mount), and an SVBony Dual Narrow Band Filter. I also used to a small wireless router to extend the range of the ASIair.

Crescent Nebula - 32 x 300sec exposures




Elephants Trunk Nebula. It is 17 x 300sec exposures




Pickerings Triangle Supernova Remnant. It is 70 x 300sec exposures

George and Steve, thank you!!!

Thank you to everyone

PS....

I also used hyperfocal

I know you are not being nasty, because if you were my response would've got me banned! , but.... if you don't mind me saying this. You did not give constructive critism at all. You asked if I had not heard of thirds, which I used used.

If I was gonna do that I would point out lots of ideas, and say try this or try that, blah blah blah, waffle...

Fair enough you think they are boring, and you probably don't like them. I can accept that and live with it. Each to their own. If you wanna be constructive, be more inspirational. Give more guidance, throw ideas at people, spark lateral thinking, take someone on a journey of creation.....

Also the front of my lens had a traffic jam of different filters on it! I probably shudda mentioned this. I was playing with filters...

It would've then prevented all this stroppyness (this is joke )

Also, if you will indulge me.... i was using filters to to bring out different textures and highlights in the clouds and sea. Then there is the distant land shrouded in haze. I could see all this with my eyes, and I aimed at recreating what I saw.... if anything.... the sun is a secondary subject. If I was gonna be main subject, I would not have used a 20mm lens!