I've recently purchased a used A 1.7 50mm and it is neccessary to set the focal length of the lens everytime the camera is turned on - the camera can't "read" this info from the older lenses so "asks" you to enter the info manually.

Not sure about the flash issue

Simon

It's a very competitive area now photography, thousands of images available through stocke agencies, websites etc so don't get too dispondent, keep trying !!

-- I own the GX10 too, great camera !!

Simon

Apologies, missed the bit about 2 exposures - thought you meant from the 1 RAW file.

I know what you mean about light/dark transition with the ND Grad, not always easy to disguise.

To be honest I do try to avoid using the ND Grads if possible & try to catch the light "just right". Obviously I'm not always so lucky & the filter can make the difference between getting a decent shot or not - they take a little getting used to though

Simon

Utilising software to replicate an ND grad filter is useful but has limitations.

If the scene you're shooting is high contrast then there is a good chance part of the detail will be beyond the Dynamic Range of the camera & that detail is lost. Using an ND grad in these situations ensures that ALL the detail in the scene is captured.

Also even when shooting Raw, recovering shadow detail in high contast scenes can generate unsightly shadow noise which, whilst removable using Noise reduction software again destroys some of the original detail.

My own personal preference is to make the most of the scene "in-camera" and then use PP to enhance this where required. Also I'm much happier taking photographs than I am spending time on Photoshop

Simon

I use the standard Cokin P-holder & haven't had any problems on my Sigma 17-70. I believe the thinner holder may well be required if using something wider (10-20 , 12-24 etc)

I have a Cokin ND4 & ND8

Simon

If you intend doing any Landscape Photography then a polariser is essential, mine is pretty much permanently fixed to my lens.

ND grads are also very useful in "contrasty" lighting to balance foreground/subject.

I think these 2 are the only filters that can't fully be replicated in PP.

As for lens protection I often use a UV when my polariser is not attached, this is mainly because I do lots of coastal photography & sea salt isn't the best thing to be having on the lens coating !!

Simon

Not my normal photography but visited chester zoo over the weekend & saw this guy !!

Sorry for the delay in responding. Whilst I'm always open to suggestions I must admit the edit just doesn't work for me - the white lighthouse just doesn't look natural.

Having taken the photo initially too I remember well that the lighthouse was bathed in yellow light from the sunrise. Thanks for the suggestion but I'm sticking with my original version

simon

Thanks for the very generous comments.

I use the Sigma 17-70 - great lens. A polariser is pretty much permanently attached too.

Regarding aperture I normally keep it around F11. Whilst I own a tripod I also find that the SR on the GX10 (K10D) is so good that I often dont need the tripod.

Personally I prefer the freedom of being able to try many different compositions in a short space of time, I often find the tripod too limiting.

Simon

Thanks everyone for the comments / feedback.

I've slightly edited the original image to lighten the foreground a little & correct the slight distortion of the lighthouse

Simon