Anvh wrote:

I agree! The Metz is a good quality flashgun with a decent output and a wide range of options. It is true that the UI is a little cumbersome, whether more or less so than the similar models from Pentax and Samsung I cannot say, but if you can manage with all the menus and sub-menus and various settings on the camera body, then I don't believe you'll find them impossible to master.

Even though Curry's are selling off the PENTAX AF360FGZ cheap, I would still get the Metz which can be had for a similar price or possibly less for two main reasons:

i) it has better features

ii) spares are easily obtained and, in my experience (I had to replace a damaged battery cover recently), not prohibitively expensive; which I doubt very much is true of spares for the Pentax.

Jon

rparmar wrote:

Must be true because my copy of the Sigma 70-300mm APO DG Macro has given exceptional service and many of the photographs in my portfolio (ranging from insects to aircraft in flight) were taken with it.

To get the best out of it you do need to stop down to f8/11 and use a sensible shutter speed if hand-holding (1/500 or greater) or a tripod.

In my experience using SRS with this lens at shuter speeds greater than 1/125 often resulted in poor IQ: don't ask me why - it just did

It does have a tendency to 'hunt' when using AF in low light.

Despite having purchased a Sigma 100-300mm f4 this Summer (which is superior in every respect, as you would hope for the price!), I'm reluctant to part with mine: partly for sentimental reasons but mainly because of its close focus ability (1:2). When used in this mode the IQ, whilst obviously not up to the standard of a bone-fide macro, is more than acceptable, IMHO, and has allowed me to capture butterflies and the like from a 'safe distance'; e.g.

link and link.

To summarise, I suggest that you give your copy a temporary reprieve and try some of the excellent tips given by others before ditching it and/or splashing out on more expensive glass.

Jon

Pink wrote:

Agree with the 'Red Shoes' link, or (slightly edited and better sound quality) link but would have to add the following:

The Who – Won’t Get Fooled Again (taken from ‘The Kids Are Alright.’) link

Leftfield featuring Afrika Bambaata - Afrika Shox link

Massive Attack featuring Elizabeth Fraser - Teardrop link

Jon

Sophiecentaur wrote:

Don't worry about the sucker! I've had a HueyPro for a couple of years now and have never had a problem with any marks being left or damage being done to the screen on my Eizo FlexScan. I can confirm that the latest software supports Windows 7.

One of the best photographic accessories I've purchased: has saved many hours, pounds and much frustration

Regards,

Jon

Stefan wrote:

You'd make a damn fine copy editor, Stefan

"Close but no cigar", as Mr T Dolby would say

Thanks for noticing the important omission

Best wishes,

Jon

Reading this thread has made me reach for the anti-anxiolytics: I had no idea that so many members on the forum tote firearms as well as cameras and expensive glass

Henceforth, my posts, especially in response to requests for C&C, are going to be considerably more circumspect and respectful

Any forum member know where I can get kevlar body armour for a good price

Jon

Hi Karen,

SRS have them for about £30.00 inc p&p for forum members link. 1.2x might not sound like much but I found it made a huge difference.

Have you set the dioptre adjustment correctly for your eye?

Jon

Image and frame work fine for me, Snaps! Well worth the wait I'd say

Jon

Hi Justin,

There are two factors you need to consider: magnification ratio and working distance.

A 'true' macro lens is one capable of capturing the subject on sensor or film at 1:1, that is to say 'life size', or greater. Some 50mm macro lenses capture at 1:2 (half-life size)unless coupled with an extension tube of 25mm, which may be a 'matched accessory' produced by the lens manufacturer.

The other consideration is working distance. 50mm macro lenses have a short working distance which is ideal for still life work and plants and flowers in the wild. It is not a good choice, however, if your main interests include photographing insects and other forms of wildlife that are easily 'spooked'.

100mm macro lenses are of intermediate working distance and are well-suited to those whose interests encompass still life and wildlife. For this reason, they are the most widely available. Not all lenses in this range have a focal length of exactly 100mm, the range extending from 90mm (Tamron) to 105mm (Sigma).

150mm macro lenses and above (200mm is the longest I am aware of)have a long working distance and are considered ideal for those whose main interests include insects and small animals.

Any macro lens from a reputable manufacturer will have been designed to give its best performance at or around its minimum focus distance, but, in most cases, produce sharp images with good definition and contrast throughout the range. They also tend to work well at their minimum aperture (typically between F2.8 and F4), allowing for the creative use of depth of field when photographing larger subjects. For this reason, many photographers also use their macro lens for portrait work.

From the above, you will appreciate that it is best to have thought carefully about your specific needs before making any purchase. If you are just starting out and not yet sure in which direction your interest in macro photography will develop, it would make sense, IMHO, to go for a 1:1 lens of intermediate working distance (90 - 100mm). Weight, handling and weather resistance are also important considerations, especially if you envisage most of your work being 'in the field'.

Macro lenses in current production to fit Pentax DSLRs are available from Pentax, Sigma and Tamron, all of which come highly recommended I have owned lenses from Tamron and Sigma and been delighted with the quality and IQ of both). The range is a little wider if you are considering a second-user lens (Tokina,Vivitar, Cosina and Panagor,among others). A good place to start narrowing down your choice would be the review section on the 'other place' link.

Focus is critical in macro photography, as is DOF link and AF is not always the best choice. AE, whilst helpful, is not always essential, especially when using flash, as for a given magnification, and hence working distance, the user quickly learns which aperture to set and to recognise when exposure compensation may be necessary. For these reasons, I suggest that you do not dismiss the idea of purchasing a second-user manual lens 'out of hand', as the quality of the optics and bokeh of some of these older lenses is quite remarkable if they have been well cared for.

Finally, there are many other ways of achieving magnifications of 1:2 - 1:1 or greater that do not require the initial expense of a true macro lens (extension tubes, reversing rings and Raynox DCR Macro converters are all used with considerable success by many users on this forum: just check out the gallery).

I hope the above proves helpful and does not leave you feeling even more confused.

I look forward to welcoming you to the fascinating, and hugely addictive, world of macro photography, as I'm sure others on the forum do too

1:1 best wishes,

Jon

Bitingly sharp and well exposed, too Hand-held or tripod mounted:

Looks like you found a real bargain:mrgreen

Best wishes,

Jon