I find a P-TTL flash on a suitable cable works quite nicely for lighting.
Generally flash held at arms length from the subject is OK, higher magnifications can need it closer. The P-TTL will cope nicely with quite a wide range of positions & it's easy to angle the light as you want.

Before the cable arrived, I bounced the flash of an A4 white card. This also works OK but needs a bit more setting up - fine for still life but difficult with insects.

I have a couple of old ring flashes somewhere from film days, but I've not found it worth the bother of finding them.

If the only flash you have is the built in one - cigarette papers make good diffusers but you may have problems with the lens getting in the way.

I have found a few subjects where a light tent helps significantly to reduce reflections, but that's the exception rather than the rule.

My macro is MF, I sometimes use the catch in focus wit gentle swaying to & fro - other times I fire manually. I think I may have used AF with stacked lenses (with a 50mm reversed on the kit) but this isn't recommended.

Don't appologise, they were worth sharing, even if they were cheesy enough to affect the Ads Google tagged onto the page! My work PC blocks the site 'Aged Cheese' goes through to (TotalRecipeSearch.com) allong with about 20% of work related sites...

Looks like this one is near Sheffield, and has VAT + a 16% commission on top.

A long way for me but perhaps worth it if some of the right items go at near their starting price...

As Walkeja says there are numerous silly questions, but Charlotte's certainly wasn't one!

I was well aware of the dioptre adjustment - mine often gets knocked - but the answers here have given me a few tips to improve on my use of it. Generally all the way to the right has been reasonably close for me without glasses.

In reply to Walkeja's question I think it's to encourage space exploration

The birds around 7-10 posts back look a bit lax in their duty, all the rest are standing to attention.

I've seen some lining up on the seafront but never anything like this!

I've just been back & read the whole thread (usually a good idea before commenting)
The problem occurs with a Cokin ND110, and appears to be still present (but improved) with the eyepiece covered.
One other possibilty is light getting on the back of the Cokin filter. Their filter holders are not ideal for very dark filters - I tried one with welding glass & stray light was horendous, I had to shade the back of the filter to get anything else on some shots.

John the problem here was stray light through the viewfinder showing up on the image. The 2 second delay is of no help here. I have used the proper eyepiece cover, but it's fiddly & easily lost so I usually leave it at home & just use my hand as a shade.

I suspect the reason the problem is being seen with the K5 & K7 but not the K-x is down to the pentaprism being brighter than the pentamirror. More light will get through in the reverse dirrection as well.

Heating will not create moisture.
Warm air will hold more water than cold air but in a sealed system (like the recommended bag) you won't get more - but you should transfer some of the water from the filter into the air, where the silica gel can then absorb it. Carl's suggestion should be ideal, unless you have access to a vacuum oven/dessicator (unlikely). I'd recommend keeping the heat fairly low though to avoid possible damage to other components. ~50°C should be reasonable.
Without the silica gel, you might just redistribute the moisture, but even that should allow much of it to be wiped off the outside.

Can I have one of those others then Leytono?
This is after all a Pentax site

If you have a friend willing to lend you the F100-300 I suggest you take them up on it, and see how you get on. Its a good lens but as Ken said, HEAVY & somewhat slow for AF.

I've used one in the past for BSB events, but when the DA 55-300 was on offer last year I jumped at the chance to increase the focal length range in a smaller/lighter package! So far test shots haven't shown any difference in IQ (the 55-300 has a better reputation).

I've also used 500mm & 600mm reflex lenses for motorsports - No AF or aperture control but MUCH lighter & with care can give good results. (Prefocusing required - things happen too quickly otherwise)