All Forum Comments
Comment by nathanever82 posted on Snow Panorama - New laptop and CS4 at 04/04/2009 - 18:58
Great.
SO you have a real easy job here!!!
Make sure the background is not distracting, and with the 50-135 you can surely achieve very sharp results at rather large f-stops, to have a beautifull OOF background.
This is not a good shot, but gives the idea of the in-focus sharpness, and OOF background.
Shot at 115mm, from about 8 metres distance. The background was a further 5-6 metres behind the bin, f4.
Oh, if its not perfect, its because its shot at 1/20 handheld, in a rush...
[IMG]http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u332/nathanever82/JiminaBin.jpg[/IMG]
SO you have a real easy job here!!!
Make sure the background is not distracting, and with the 50-135 you can surely achieve very sharp results at rather large f-stops, to have a beautifull OOF background.
This is not a good shot, but gives the idea of the in-focus sharpness, and OOF background.
Shot at 115mm, from about 8 metres distance. The background was a further 5-6 metres behind the bin, f4.
Oh, if its not perfect, its because its shot at 1/20 handheld, in a rush...
[IMG]http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u332/nathanever82/JiminaBin.jpg[/IMG]
Comment by nathanever82 posted on Portrait Lens at 04/04/2009 - 12:12
These are 2 examples from the gig I shot with the 31 ltd.
It is definitely not long enough for a gig...
http://www.nathanservi.com/photo_3555002.html
http://www.nathanservi.com/photo_3555008.html
It is definitely not long enough for a gig...
http://www.nathanservi.com/photo_3555002.html
http://www.nathanservi.com/photo_3555008.html
Comment by nathanever82 posted on stage, portrait lens, which one? at 04/04/2009 - 12:04
Get it.
Stefan, I've had the posh primes approach for some times now, and I've also been shooting gigs for some times.
1 or 2 f-stops difference in a lens will make very very minimal difference in the practicality of your shooting. You can shoot a gig with your 18-250 if needed and you will find a way of getting good images with f6.3 at the long end.
What I am trying to say is that for the most part of gigs, having a zoom is a far better option, because its versatile, and in the case of the 50-135, it is also very very sharp.
I shot a gig with the LEGENDARY 31mm ltd the other day; it wasn't a paid job so I decided to take only 1 lens. And for the whole evening I struggled to get proper photos, and struggled to get a good framing in the middle of the crowd, and walking around the place in order to get something of a different angle. For the whole evening I had a £700 lens on my camera, and I wished I had a cheap zoom, so that I could relax for a minute and enjoy the gig.
Now, this doesn't apply if you are on a paid job, can take as many cameras as you want, and have the possibility of having a zoom on one body, and a good fast prime on another body for the creative shots.
I love prime lenses, and will almost always vote for one over a zoom. But the two DA* have really turned me around, and I have been much more shocked by the image quality when I got the two DA*, then when I got the 31 ltd for example.
Good Luck
Stefan, I've had the posh primes approach for some times now, and I've also been shooting gigs for some times.
1 or 2 f-stops difference in a lens will make very very minimal difference in the practicality of your shooting. You can shoot a gig with your 18-250 if needed and you will find a way of getting good images with f6.3 at the long end.
What I am trying to say is that for the most part of gigs, having a zoom is a far better option, because its versatile, and in the case of the 50-135, it is also very very sharp.
I shot a gig with the LEGENDARY 31mm ltd the other day; it wasn't a paid job so I decided to take only 1 lens. And for the whole evening I struggled to get proper photos, and struggled to get a good framing in the middle of the crowd, and walking around the place in order to get something of a different angle. For the whole evening I had a £700 lens on my camera, and I wished I had a cheap zoom, so that I could relax for a minute and enjoy the gig.
Now, this doesn't apply if you are on a paid job, can take as many cameras as you want, and have the possibility of having a zoom on one body, and a good fast prime on another body for the creative shots.
I love prime lenses, and will almost always vote for one over a zoom. But the two DA* have really turned me around, and I have been much more shocked by the image quality when I got the two DA*, then when I got the 31 ltd for example.
Good Luck
Comment by nathanever82 posted on stage, portrait lens, which one? at 04/04/2009 - 11:47
Yes!
No???
I tend to stop it down just a little to achieve perfect sharpness.
What is your opinion?
No???
I tend to stop it down just a little to achieve perfect sharpness.
What is your opinion?
Comment by nathanever82 posted on Portrait Lens at 04/04/2009 - 11:33
George,
you should get a 50-135. It is really incredible.
And I am on a primes crusade...
How are you by the way?
you should get a 50-135. It is really incredible.
And I am on a primes crusade...
How are you by the way?
Comment by nathanever82 posted on stage, portrait lens, which one? at 04/04/2009 - 00:02
Mainly before it goes up in price.
Comment by nathanever82 posted on stage, portrait lens, which one? at 03/04/2009 - 23:38
I don't think that for stage photography you will find ANY difference between f1.4 and f2.8.
The Shallow DOF of the 55mm is going to create a lot of complications, and very probably you'll need to stop it down anyway to get the sharpest results.
Therefore, my vote definitely goes for the 50-135. It is extremely versatile, and very very sharp already at f2.8. To answer what John said about shake at the long end, I would strongly suggest you use a monopod. I have shot with the lens and used the monopod with great success, and really really comfortable shooting position, avoiding any shake.
Get the ZOom, and if you really feel like a prime, get an FA 50. Just as good (For as much as I tested the 55 at SRS) and much much cheaper.
Good Luck,
The Shallow DOF of the 55mm is going to create a lot of complications, and very probably you'll need to stop it down anyway to get the sharpest results.
Therefore, my vote definitely goes for the 50-135. It is extremely versatile, and very very sharp already at f2.8. To answer what John said about shake at the long end, I would strongly suggest you use a monopod. I have shot with the lens and used the monopod with great success, and really really comfortable shooting position, avoiding any shake.
Get the ZOom, and if you really feel like a prime, get an FA 50. Just as good (For as much as I tested the 55 at SRS) and much much cheaper.
Good Luck,
Comment by nathanever82 posted on stage, portrait lens, which one? at 03/04/2009 - 23:37
Book cover - head, maximum head and shoulders, outdoors, blurred background, flattering perspective.
ONLY the 50-135. (probably around f3.5/f4)
Good Luck
ONLY the 50-135. (probably around f3.5/f4)
Good Luck
Comment by nathanever82 posted on Portrait Lens at 03/04/2009 - 23:31
This is another imprecise question, and you will probably need to specify what you intend on asking.
The K20 has better high ISO capabilities above ISO 800. And it represents a great step up from the K10. Generally speaking, anything above ISO 400 will be cleaner on a K20, not to mention that it goes up to 6400, where the K10 only manages 1600, 2 full stops less.
On the other hand, RAW files from a K10 at ISO 100 are of the very cleanest on the market, and many say that at low ISO sensitivities, the K10 CCD sensor is less noisy and cleaner than the CMOS in the K20.
Maybe this will help you.
Regards
The K20 has better high ISO capabilities above ISO 800. And it represents a great step up from the K10. Generally speaking, anything above ISO 400 will be cleaner on a K20, not to mention that it goes up to 6400, where the K10 only manages 1600, 2 full stops less.
On the other hand, RAW files from a K10 at ISO 100 are of the very cleanest on the market, and many say that at low ISO sensitivities, the K10 CCD sensor is less noisy and cleaner than the CMOS in the K20.
Maybe this will help you.
Regards
Comment by nathanever82 posted on which has better noise control the k10d or the k20d at 03/04/2009 - 23:21
Oh, its nowhere near perfect, but i'm stunned by CS4's capabilities!
[IMG]http://i517.photobucket.com/albums/u332/nathanever82/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg[/IMG]