There are plenty of Chinese bags available on ebay and are available in all sorts of flavours.
Just one example:- canvas shoulder bag

Go anywhere where you would normally feel safe to be. Carrying a camera is unlikely to put you at any greater risk. However, if you wish to feel less conspicuous you could always carry the camera in an old shoulder bag ( or even a carrier bag) anything that doesn't look too much like an expensive photographers bag.

Safety is often about perception rather than reality. If you are not advertising what you are carrying, you should feel less of a target and hopefully more secure.

Sale agreed with elfer.

interest noted and pm sent.
thank you.

K10D body only, good condition through out, purchased from another forum member 2 years ago and has been handled with care. approx 12600 clicks. Just a couple specks inside the view finder, I believe they are behind the focusing screen.

sale would include body, 2 batteries, charger, cables, manual. Also have a copy of the 'magic lantern' guide I would include if required.

I am sounding out really and understand that this may not be the place or time to sell.
I would need £120+ p&p ovno, otherwise I will keep hold of it as a second body.
It's too nice to let go for peanuts.

Photos will can provided if anyone is interested, but would have to wait until my new k30 arrives!

Just for record, I too believe you may well be right. I also think others may go along with this. What we have all been critical of is the 'testing' methodology.

Like comparing DSLRs, we can learn little if sample images do not compare the same parameters. A review that compared a terribly exposed, mis-focused image from a k5 with a perfect image from a *ist D, might conclude that the latter was the better camera. The test would be meaningless.

I for one am certainly not knocking what you are trying to do, and have a genuine (and vested interest) in the results. I wish to encourage you in your endeavour, but would like conclusions that I could have confidence in.

Image processing software comes and goes. Like many here I merely dabble with processing. Learning new tools requires commitment and I do not have time to master all the programs I play with. Naturally some skills are transferable, but in the past it would have been valuable to see side by side comparisons:- should I stump up the cash for photoshop, persevere with GIMP or seek other alternatives to invest my time in?

Good fortune and a friend's generosity has resolved my dilemma. I have Photoshop CS6 extended to commit to, although it is not the only string to my bow.

I accept this and this is what I would like to have seen compared. However the two images have not been processed by code purporting to do the same thing. Further more the self imposed remit for the two images appears to have been very different. David processing to produce the most faithful record and Nigel processing for taste and recovering as much as possible from the file.

The rear element and reflectivity of the sensor is the problem. It is refered to as sensor flare.

As I understand it, a sensor is more reflective than the surface of film. Light reflected from the sensor is then re reflected from the flat face of rear element back to the sensor again.

I have not experienced it, but I have heard sensor flare can be a problem with some lenses when used with a filter. Once again, the flat face causing the problems.

Python118. I think you are talking about a different lens. The op is asking about the Tamron adaptall sp90 f2.5, a vintage manual focus lens, not the current AF lens which does go to a full 1:1 macro and does not suffer sensor flare.

This lens is my favourite and a pure joy to use. The one caveat to this is the purple spot ( that Dr O mentions) that can appear when the lens is stopped down.
It is sensor flare, a reflection from the flat surface of the rear lens element. It can show from f8, but does depend on the contrast within the image.

The good news is that if used with the matched extension tube or 2x converter, the flare is eliminated.
Ideally you also want to use the lens with an adaptall PKA adapter.

I would also value advice on this one. I have not been able to get anything to budge, even with a lens spanner. Have shelved any further attempts for fear of causing damage.

I wish to access the second element to remove a slight haze. IQ is a problem when shooting towards the light with a noticeable drop in contrast.