not meaning to nitpick John, but shouldn't that be 27-83.5?


I'm not sure if this is still possible since K mount lens prices have gone mad on ebay in the last few weeks, but I got my Tamron 90mm F2.5 Macro with a matched 2x flat field teleconverter for £50 on ebay.

It is a bit basic and has no auto features whatever unless you can get hold of the elusive PKA adaptall 2 mount, but it works well and has taken me some pretty good shots both closeup and long distance as a fairly fast short telephoto prime.

Rolls on Floor Laughing

agreed, and come to think of it in a gig situation all those lights flashing around are quite likely to confuse the meter anyway, so you are probably better off in manual mode. Or so it seems to me anyway.

This doesn't work on ME Super's (well it doesn't work on mine anyway) since the exposure comp mechanism actually works by adjusting the ISO fed to the meter.

Set your ME-Super to 1600 ISO and try to engage -ve exposure comp, you'll see what I mean.

Of course you can set Manual mode and just underexpose by however many stops, but if you want auto exposure at greater than 1600 you will need a different camera.

George, last I saw the LX was still fetching well over £100, almost regardless of condition. Compare this to my near perfect SFX which recently failed to sell at all for £5, or my Z-50p which fetched £30 including a standard zoom and P&P.

I just saw an MZ-7 go for £30 on ebay (would have bought it if I didn't already have one!)

Some of the AF film cameras are going silly cheap, and are good to ISO 5000 DX coded or 6400 manual (note the Z and P series can't be set manually, it's DX coded film or nothing).

The LX is an awesome camera, especially in low light, but they are hard to find in good condition and very expensive.

awesome site, I read it every day.

have to excuse the authors choice of Camera body but hey nobody's perfect

interesting, I stand corrected

my apologies Golfdiesel, my earlier post was needlessly blunt even if I had been right.

from your sources it looks like it is definitely better to discharge cells in need of reconditioning using a clever charger rather than just running them flat in the device, although I imagine all the cells in a given set will be something close to the same condition if they have always been used as a set (eg the cells in my mouse which never leave it, or the ones in my *ist which I always use as a set of 4).

not true, as I have both seen and cured it in normal use

I agree with NiMH's it is generally rare

Althought NiMH batteries often claim to be "memory effect free", in fact they are just less susceptible to this problem than NiCd batteries.

If you frequently charge any Nickel based cell from a partially charged state, it will eventually suffer from reduced capacity.

If this is the case and the situation has not become too serious, repeatedly totally draining and re-charging the cells can help. The cells which came with my re-chargeable mouse began to suffer from this a few months ago and I was able to save them by running them totally flat and fully charging them 4 or 5 times. Some high end chargers have a "reconditioning" mode which does this automatically, I just left the mouse off charge for a couple of days.


Also worth noting is that these batteries do have a finite lifetime, and the higher rated cells tend to die more quickly. I have a set of 1700mAh batteries which are something on the order of 5 years old and still work great, but these have seen only light use since they were about one year old. My more heavily used set of 2000mAh cells lasted about 4 years before refusing to charge anymore. It may just be time to retire your batteries in favour of new sets.

The Uniross Hybrio cells are very popular at the moment due to their minimal self discharge rate. I have also had very good use out of my 2600mAh cells from 7dayshop (own brand). They are very cheap and have surprisingly low self discharge for a classic NiMH cell.

I wouldn't use R-CRV3s because a lot of them produce 3.7V instead of 3V. It can be very hard to tell which are ok since the packaging frequently fails to mention this vital detail. For this reason Pentax specifically recommend against using R-CRV3s in any of their cameras.

well I can honistly say Dan, that is the single best photograph of water vole poo I have ever seen