MattMatic

Joined: 2nd July 2002

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MattMatic
I've just looked on www.fujilab.co.uk to see what they have for sale, and it looks like Velvia 100F is taking over in 35mm (you can still buy 50ASA for 120 format).

They have a triples deal - 3 Velvia 100F process paid for £23.47 + p&p which is a great deal

They do also have a "Pick'n'mix" that includes Velvia 50ASA (three of Provia/Velvia/Astia and processing for £21.99).

http://www.fujilab.co.uk/promopage.asp

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Fuji Velvia 50 ASA at 16/02/2005 - 18:51

MattMatic

Looks great!

Comment by MattMatic posted on New digital zoom at 14/02/2005 - 19:42

MattMatic
Write acceleration is not the same thing as write speed.
WA is a kind of shorthand communication between the camera and a WA-enabled card (only Lexar make them). It saves some commands that increase write time by around 10%-15% (I think).

If you plug in a normal card, the WA is not used.

Regarding write speed (e.g. 40x, 66x etc) you can go as high as you like. The camera will just write as fast as it can. If you put in a card that's "too high", then the card just won't be a bottle neck.

I've just bought a 2Gb Lexar 80x WA card and it flies in the *ist-D
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Write acceleration at 12/02/2005 - 10:18

MattMatic
Brian,
Try these too: www.optikvervelabs.com - VirtualPhotographer is free (works with PS or PSE)

Also, for correcting exposure problems, this is fab: http://actions.home.att.net/dSLR_Tools.html and reasonably priced (only PS)

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on Post processing in Photoshop at 23/02/2005 - 03:34

MattMatic
DOH!
Sorry

Comment by MattMatic posted on New *ist-D Photobrowser 2.10 software at 09/02/2005 - 14:26

MattMatic
Here are a few things I couldn't do without on the *ist-D (which I believe are not on the DS):

1. Seperate Tv and Av dials. I have just shot a panto in fully manual mode, using spot metering. Having finger and thumb control of both was a real boon.

2. Hyper program. Being able to go with the auto setting, but override the Av or Tv at will is superb.

3. Being able to disconnect the shutter button from the focus system. There's a custom function that stops the autofocus on half press. You then use the AF button on the back of the *ist-D (with the thumb). Absolutely superb for very low light and fast moving stuff. You can prefocus when you have a chance with the AF button, and shoot at will.

4. Compact Flash. I have just got the Lexar 80x WA 2Gb card which is blindingly fast for RAW mode. But then, the *ist-DS uses a faster internal processor... it would be interesting to see a speed comparison

5. Back lit status LCD display. I've used this a few times.

6. Mirror lockup when using 2second self timer delay. (Though there's no reason the *ist-DS couldn't do that - it's just firmware.)

Personally, I don't use the PC flash socket because I use the AF360FGZ in wireless mode (wonderful!!). I'd like to see the faster processor, the larger LCD, and some extra customisation features on the *ist-D.

Maybe Pentax will release a firmware upgrade to the *ist-D to make the divide even larger....

Hope that helps
Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on *ist D or *ist DS??????? at 14/02/2005 - 13:32

MattMatic
You can, of course, shoot in RAW mode. That way you can choose and adjust the whitebalance after the shot - when you process on the computer.
(And if you use Capture One LE, you'll get much much more control over exposure, highlights, shadows, as well as whitebalance)

Only downside is 14Mb per shot

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on auto white balance at 06/02/2005 - 04:16

MattMatic
LCE Group have a Pentax 100mm f2.8 macro autofocus secondhand at the moment:

http://www.lcegroup.co.uk/item_details.php?second_hand_equipment_id=3595
(At their Exeter store)

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on extension tubes at 07/02/2005 - 08:52

MattMatic
Just to add to John's excellent reply...

If you use a short focal length lens, you have to get physically closer (you will not get vignetting). If the focal length is too wide and/or the extension tubes too long you can find the focus point is actually inside the lens - and you won't be able to focus at all!

If you use a long focal length lens, you are physically further away but you will get less magnification. This is useful for "normal" subjects to make a telephoto focus closer. (So you won't be limited by a 2m distance! In fact, with all tubes loaded up you still need to go pretty close!)

So it depends what you want... if you want super small objects, use a 50mm lens (or less) with all the tubes and get really close; if you are isolating a subject you can use a longer focal length.

I have also tried adding a 1.7x AF adapter too (Body:1.7x:extensions:100mm lens) and have got some interesting results!

Go ahead and experiment!!

Matt

Comment by MattMatic posted on extension tubes at 02/02/2005 - 03:29

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