Flink,
Not a pro, just a Photoshop nutcase
Well, here are a few sharpening links that are well worth the read (some are long though!):
http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/12189-2.html
http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/20357-2.html

http://www.retouchpro.com/tutorials/?m=show&id=169
http://www.retouchpro.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10602
http://retouchpro.com/tutorials/?m=show&id=158
http://retouchpro.com/tutorials/?m=show&id=149

There are some interesting, useful, and novel ways of sharpening in those links. High-pass sharpening is very useful and quick (and works wih Elements too). The CreativePro links give a technique that uses some advanced layer modes available only in Photoshop - they have the most recent sharpening techniques (there is a simpler version that I've used too, which I don't have a link for). The results are very natural and controllable (which I like!).

What I want to do, given the time, is put together a Photoshop action set that is specifically for the *ist-D/DS with values set best for general use...
Matt

Hmmm.
I wouldn't call the 24-90 the sharpest of the bunch, but it just has "something" about the image quality that I can't get from other lenses. I have had some beautiful images from it, and generally it's the lens that's on the *ist-D. The 100mm/f2.8 is awesomely sharp, but there's still a quality that I very much like about the 24-90 that I can't find anywhere else (my first shots were some wedding "snaps" that I was over the moon with. Shot in RAW, a little PS processing, and they rivalled the pro results )

However, because it has very good contrast I find the images sharpen up very well indeed in PS (with the right technique). True, the 16-45 is much sharper. And it is also true that all the compacts sharpen much more aggressively than the DSLRs. The reason is this - since you post process 99% of the time, adding the sharpening to the image within the PC gives you more control and flexibility. Once an image has been sharpened in camera (especially if it's over sharpened), there's not much you can do to undo that "damage". It's always best to keep it softer and leave the sharpening until later. But that's a completely different, and rather huge, subject

Maybe I should rustle up a little tutorial...


There are other real killer effects, which are more important than just sharpness IMHO, are ghosting, flare control, and chromatic aberration. I'd rather have a slightly softer lens which handles these three things well. The Pentax glass is generally just amazing (which is why that's all I have now). Yes, a little CA, even on the 100/2.8, but not excessive, certainly not like some third party lenses I've tried! Testing for these requires differing conditions, and I don't see that a single test shot can measure all these things. Just something else to throw into the melting pot

Matt

Ha ha You soon run out of excuses!
Seriously, I didn't realise what I was missing until I started getting hold of decent glass (like the SMC-F 50/f1.7). The good glass really shines on the digital sensors, and as you know, I've made a conscious decision to stick with the Pentax glass.

Now have 16-45, 24-90, 80-320, 50/1.7, and 100/2.8 - have finally settled on this set (The 80-320 is proving amazing. Such superb contrast and detail in so small a package. A joy to use.) I also use the 1.7xAF convertor and some TriPlus extension tubes (which have the electrical contacts). Flash is down to the AF360 and a Metz 50MZ-5.

The 12-24 will make a nice addition That's one lens just aching for another excuse
Matt

Seems similar to me
Since going digital I've realised how aweful even my best images were!! (That's why I've just had to upgrade all my glass )
Matt

Hi Kevin,
Just reading your cross-post on ePhotozine as well
I'll try and answer:

1) Dust. The *ist-D/DS have a shutter and mirror the same as all film cameras. You will get dust in there eventually. However a big puffer usually gets the crud off, and if you need to clean it it's not really that difficult to do. (I've cleaned mine three times).

2) I have the *ist-D and it's very well made. It depends how extreme you mean about hot/cold environments... you shouldn't have too many probs down to -18C as far as I know (especially if you use the Lithium cells). Memory card writes tend to slow down as it gets colder, and battery life for NiMH cells goes well down.

3) I have printed at A2 from the *ist-D without any interpolation, via Photobox. Result was stunning. Personally I find digital cleaner, but different to film.

4) Not sure about printers... I tend to go straight to online print service

5) The 16-45 is a stonkingly good lens. Noticeable sharper than the 24-90. Distortion is almost non-existent. It's wonderful The 24-90 performs very well on the *ist-D too Park Cameras have it for £270, which is pretty excellent IMHO (and depressing as I paid £350!).

I'd also suggest purchasing a large SD card (for the *ist-DS) - if you shoot RAW (which is by far the best), then a couple of 1Gb are useful (about 70 shots on each).

Hope that helps

Matt

As long as you haven't taken any more photos on the card

Try this: http://z-a-recovery.com/digital_image_recovery.htm
(It's free )

Matt

By the way Corinna, I thought your signature "Oh, bother," said the Borg, "We've assimilated Pooh....". maybe should be "Uh-oh", said the Borg, "We've assimilated the Tellitubbies...."

Thanks for letting us know the result
Have fun with your "new" camera
Matt

Corinna,
This is the site for general info on Pentax cameras and lenses: http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/index.html

Should it become necessary to repair, then give these guys a ring: http://www.asahiphoto.net/
They are very helpful. I believe there are other Pentax repair specialists around too.

If you can get into Brighton, then www.clocktowercameras.co.uk often have some older Pentax gear, as well as all the other "mechanical" cameras and the like A "real" camera shop! As Kim says, Park Cameras and MXV are both excellent companies with good second hand stocks.

Have fun!
Matt

Corinna,
You'll probably find the batteries are flat - putting them in the wrong way round usually shorts them out
The film can be recovered too A good camera shop, or processing shop will have a little gadget to hook out the film strip... just ask
(You can even buy them - http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=777_1_103_10305&produ... )
Hope you can get it sorted!
Matt