And there's always SilkyPix 3 - which has injected new life into the *ist-D high ISO images
Matt

Graham,
Yes, you're right - leading flash will give a "future" trail. That's why it looks so "wrong" in moving subjects.

You can still get blur at the flash sync speed. Don't forget the flash duration is something like 1/10000s, so it depends just how fast the subject is moving as to whether the 1/180 or 1/150 makes a blur

Matt

These are all modes for the popup flash.

* Leading curtain (the default): Shutter opens, flash fires, shutter waits, shutter closes.

* Trailing curtain: Shutter opens, shutter waits, flash fires, shutter closes.

Doesn't sound like a lot of difference, but the net result is that when using trailing curtain with a slow shutter speed and a moving object it looks far more natural - the "trail" is effectively back in time.

HTH!
Matt

Welcome to the board "Pug"!

First of all - every bayonet mount lens ever made by Pentax will work on all their DSLRs... with some functions restricted.

Bear these points in mind:

* The sensor on the digital is smaller than a 35mm frame. You get an effective crop of 1.5x. So, a 50mm lens behaves like a 75mm, etc.

* If the lens is manual, then it is easier to use if it has an "A" on the aperture ring. If it doesn't have this "A" setting, you have to do stop-down-metering to get correct exposure (unless you only shoot wide open).

* All autofocus lenses will operate as AF on all Pentax DSLRs. On manual focus lenses the DSLR will show a focus indicator - giving you the best of both worlds

As regards your question about the lenses... personally I would say the 50mm/f1.7 is definitely worth using, especially if it is an "A" version. It's extremely sharp and contrasty.

However, I would suggest at least getting the 18-55mm kit lens (which gives you effectively 27mm-82mm coverage). If you can afford it, the SMC-DA 16-45mm is a better (but larger) lens.

You can, of course, still use your 35-80, but I think you'll find there are sharper/more flexible lenses around

Hope that helps!
Matt

Tim,
(EDIT: Typing crossed in the ether )

There's always been a free version... it's very limited, and IMO you want the paid for one

Here's the list of functions:
http://www.isl.co.jp/SILKYPIX/english/products/ds3/function/

Anything with blue b/g is for free and paid, anything with gray is paid.
e.g. Colour temp adjustment; contrast; curves; gamma; saturation adjustments; fine colour control; dynamic range controls; noise reduction; etc etc etc etc

I reckon you did the right thing buying it
Matt

Aha! I see now George.

Ok, I've tried both the file date and EXIF date. As you correctly state, it's the EXIF date that's causing problems.

I haven't found anything automatic, but if you open the PEF file with a hex editor (I use Ultraedit), you'll see the date stamped three times within the first block or so of the PEF file. The date is simply written in ASCII, so you can manually change the 2007:11:04 (e.g.) to 2006:11:04 and resave.

There are plenty of freebie hex editors around:
http://www.chmaas.handshake.de/delphi/freeware/xvi32/xvi32.htm
http://www.winhex.com/winhex/index-m.html
etc - all from Google.

I know this isn't ideal, but it's a workaround for now

Matt

George,
Just done some hacking

First, I tried modifying the EXIF data with a hex editor. Silkypix DS3 opened no problems.
Next, I tried modifying the file date/time. Silkypix DS3 opened no problems!
( http://home.worldonline.dk/ninotech/freeutil.htm )

I'm confused - I can't make SPDS3 refuse to work with the file, even though everything reports that my file is dated 2007

Alas, I don't have a camera with me right now... (shocking!)
Could you elaborate??
Matt

George,
Haven't tried this, but just Google'd for "EXIF modify date":
http://www.softpedia.com/get/Multimedia/Graphic/Digital-Photo-Tools/Exif-Date-Ch...

Just a little warning-- back up your PEFs before trying any of them!!

Hope that helps!
Matt

LOL @ Dan. I wish I was on commission
But you never know... there've been good things said about C1v4 when demonstrated at the shows. Actually I have paid-up full versions of C1LE, RSP (Lightroom 1 to follow), PS-CS2, and soon-to-be Silkypix

Brian - I agree about the jumping screen. I mentioned it to their support desk, but we'll see. Maybe it's because I have a fast machine that it doesn't bother me too much now, but I'd like to see it improved. However, the plus side is that SP actually renders in the previews so you can see noise reduction and sharpening too - C1 only does this in the Focus control

Matt

George,
(Ahem) At the risk of embarrassing myself again, the email said "K110D", not K10D - at least my email does
Matt