Weeeell, from the brochure I'd say it only applied to older manual lenses that lack the focal length info.

However, as the firmware was/is updated at quite a rate, I suspect there's just a time-lag difference between marketing material and production code.

Matt

Thanks Tim
I've been called a few things in my time... that's a new one
Matt

Liam et al,
There's this ePhotozine meet:
http://www.ephotozine.com/forum/viewanswers.cfm?qid=42531
3rd Feb in Brighton

Might be a start.... hopefully I should be able to get along to it in the afternoon.
Matt

ChrisA - the best thing is to get an SD card reader for the PC.
I can't remember the last time I connected my camera directly to the PC!

But, battery life of an hour sounds very low... doesn't give much hope for tethered shooting in the future
Matt

Just my thoughts -

The LiIon battery was almost certainly necessary. The camera has a much faster processor, more functions, plus the SR - all this consumes power.
And, if you've ever used the *ist-D with grip and NiMH batteries you'll know of the hassles involved in that.

My first charge lasted about 400 shots with *loads* of LCD viewing. Compared to my *ist-D battery life it was much improved.

When the battery runs out and shows one less mark on the battery gauge, it's definitely time to change - there was enough for quite a few shots (maybe 20 or 30), but don't take the camera out without a spare battery!

LiIon has a couple of characteristics - they self-discharge slower than NiMH so you can leave the spare in the bag for longer; you can "top" them up - rather than having to discharge/recharge - in fact I've read that's better for them.


I know lots have gripes about not using AA cells, but personally I prefer having a more reliable battery with a more reliable power indicator After all, a spare battery is not that expensive (even at the Pentax price) compared to the cost of the K10D itself.

Matt

Get a cable remote and a 2.5mm stereo headphone extension cable
If you want to make your own shutter release there's an old thread I did on this forum... (center pin is the shutter, middle is the focus, sleeve is the ground.)

There are plenty of compatible products and web pages on DIY stuff!
Matt

Brian - you can't go on specs aloned for good image editing. Most of what you want comes down to colour fidelity and stability.
I got a Lacie 120 "Laframe" from ephotozineshop.com - a cheaper mailorder return. Spydered it's a great LCD.

Don't forget you also need to calibrate & use in very subdued lighting.

I've had other monitors that look "better" on spec, but were a complete pain to calibrate (especially in getting linear response).

Hope that helps!
Matt

Try this site:
http://www.cartersmounts.co.uk/
I've no personal experience of them, but they seem to stock a good range of mounts
(Seem to remember I got the link from an ePhotozine thread where they were recommended by someone)
Matt

Paulo,

I don't think you need HS mode...

HS mode is designed primarily for fill-in flash in bright conditions. The flash power is reduced by half - it's not for "freezing action".

In all flash modes the flash is about 1/20000s - so if the flash is the main light, then it will freeze the action anyway.

To repeat - you CANNOT get the AF500 to work with HS. Wireless - no (it will trigger off the preflash command and there will be nothing recorded on the CCD for the main flash). Cabled - no.

If you are capturing skateboarding and you have rigged up a wireless flash system (so the lights are basically fixed) then use manual:

* Set the camera to M
* Set the shutter speed to 1/180s, aperture to f/8
* Position both flashes in wireless mode. Set the AF360 to "Slave 2" (dumb slave)
* Set both flashes to M
* Set the power level of both flashes to 1/4
* Use the pop-up flash
* Set the pop-up flash to Second Curtain Sync (rear-curtain)

> If the lighting is too bright, reduce the aperture and/or lower the power of the flash guns.

> If the lighting is too dark, open up the aperture and/or increase the power of the flashguns (but don't go to "1", stay at half power or less, otherwise they will trigger off the preflash and have nothing for the main flash).

> If you want more of the background exposed correctly, lower the shutter speed (the flash will still "freeze" the action)

(This all assumes that the ambient light is lower than the flash light)

Hope that makes sense!
Matt

Paulo,

High speed flash isn't a simple thing! HS is actually a pulsed flash system, and only the AF360, AF540, and *ist-D popup can support it. So, no there is no way the AF500 can support the HS mode - either wirelessly or connected.

Here is one (non HS) option for you:
* Put the AF500 on the K10D
* Set the AF360 to "Slave 2" (dumb slave)

This setup works best if all three are in manual mode. However, you should get some success in setting the AF360 to "M" (and setting a reduced power most likely), and using the AF500 in "A" mode (the K10D does not support TTL).


To be honest, if you are setting up a studio type shot where you have absolute control over the lighting - use fully manual. This works on both the K10D and *ist-D.

Let us know what you are trying to photograph (and why you are keen on using HS mode) and I'll try and give some specific advice.

Matt