You might also find this tutorial very helpful
http://northscape.photium.com/page1314.html

Matt

Rodger,
You shouldn't associate the MONITOR profile with the printer

What should happen is this:
* The monitor profile tells Photoshop how to display the current working profile (which should be AdobeRGB or sRGB generally)
* The image should be in the working profile, let's say AdobeRGB
* When you print, Photoshop will convert from the working profile to the printer profile (if you've checked "Let Photoshop determine colors", or the image will be sent in the working profile and you let the printer driver deal with it.

For Epson printers you should work 100% in AdobeRGB and choose this setting from within the Epson driver (because there is a further colour space transformation with regard to the paper you choose ).

I've covered most of the details in this sticky thread:
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2533

Matt

Martin,
Normally, if you hold down MENU while turning the camera on it should display the firmware version number. If not - then you've got a broken K10D
Certainly not a general problem... but you need to get it looked at.
Matt

Think these are at least with a Pentax DSLR:
http://www.pbase.com/joele/sigma1020
and this is:
http://www.pbase.com/image/74563129

To be honest, there won't be much difference between a Canon 20D image with a 10-20mm and a K10D image. A lot depends on the skill of the photographer to (a) take the image, and (b) process it properly.

The Sigma 10-20 is liked by many, and it's a relatively cheap lens - especially compared with the Pentax 12-24. But then I wouldn't trade the Pentax in for the Sigma

Matt

Ditto George's advice

Two minutes spent getting the exposure right and you'll get every shot right from then on. Easy
Matt

You'd have other problems
If you use a very wide aperture (like f/1.4) in low lighting then the depth of field is unbelievably narrow. So narrow that you can get the eyes in focus but not the nose! So focus is sooooo critical... and on a moving target it's impossible.

For capturing that kind of shot, golfdiesel has the right idea - a flash with an Omnibounce is good. If you have the K10D and AF360 or AF540 then wireless remote would be even better.

Matt

The 50/1.4 is an absolutely sublime lens (either SMC-F or -FA). It is perfect for portraits and very low level light. Astonishingly sharp too, but the fact it can open up to f/1.4 means you can focus on the eyes and not get the skin in focus! Needless to say, that at f/2.8 and wider your focussing gets absolutely critical!

The macro lenses were designed for macro work. I have the 100/2.8 macro and it is a superb lens. I have used it for portraiture - but mostly for flower macros. I think it was described as "brutally sharp" - which isn't necessarily what you want if you're going to please your other half! LOL!

The MTF data and reviews don't give the whole picture... it's the bokeh and "rendition" of the lens that's important - perhaps more so than sharpness.

If, as you say, you intend to take shots of family shots, then I'd go for the 50/1.4 Its rendition is astonishing. I couldn't do without mine

Matt

Whoops! Sorry
Think that was the one! I'd suggest giving Chris a ring - he's probably tried it
Matt

There is also a NEW Pentax magnifying adaptor... I seem to remember Chris at SRS Microsystems having them when the K10D came in stock originally
Matt

I seem to remember there were a some "photographer scams" that were reported in the ePhotozine forums... can't quite remember the details of them though...
Matt