Thomas,
I think you've greatly oversimplified the issues

If you've ever dealt with wide dynamic range images you'll realise that it would be highly annoying to just "not clip". Sure, for flat and contrast-less images this would be fine. But for real images it'd be a right pain.

You'd find that you'd have detail in the highlights - sure - but you could never work out where the midtones are going to be

As I said, handling wide dynamic range images requires complex tone-mapping. I'd be happy to do that, but only at the PC.

Matt

Thomas,
I have a feeling we discussed this before... (at least I have )
From what I understand, Pentax opted for removing the pre-amp and associated electronics and went for the 22-bit ADC. It was one of the head guys in Japan that mentioned this - and they did it to gain a better image "quality" (more film-like).

Like you, I reckon they have just slapped the CCD output (which is analogue) straight into the 22-bit ADC with no ISO-setting-preamp. And, like you, I came to the same conclusion.

What's more, I've mentioned it on more than one occassion and I hope the message has got back to Pentax Japan. At the very least, a 16-bit RAW format (or better a 22-bit) that works in conjunction with Silkypix would be really cool - it'd save me fiddling about with tons of exposures for HDR images, and allow all kinds of possibilities.

But... allowing that option does open rather a lot of other technological issues - such as the RAW convertor. There's no point Pentax releasing such a feature with nothing to support it!

And, besides, there is already an auto-ISO feature. Anything more and you're getting into HDR tone-mapping territory (which is a minefield, and certainly not simple).

I'm still holding out for an extended RAW format....

Matt

Wow! You're a hard man to help, Pete
(A bit more detail in your reply would go a looooooong way to helping you out, just as if I asked a policeman for help and just said "I have a problem" - doesn't make his job easier does it?)

If they behaved exactly the same then there's not much else to do - the "greyscale" option on the printer driver should remove any colour casts as far as the printer can.

The only other thing I'm not sure that's been asked is what paper are you using? Profiles are printer + ink + paper dependent
(So it's quite likely you'll get a slight colour shift when not using the paper the printer's profile was made for.)

Matt

You tried both or just one?
Matt

Pete,
Just installed the ip4300 driver to help you out...

On the "MAIN" page, there is a check box "Grayscale Printing" - this will make it black and white with no colour


Alternatively, you should start by having your printing options as follows:
* On the ip4300 dialog: Change "Color/Intensity" to "Manual" and click "Set..."
* Set the "Color Correction" to "Driver Matching" and ensure everything is at default settings.
* Ok the boxes.

In Photoshop:
When printing, choose the option "Let the Printer determine colors" (not Let Photoshop Determine Colors)

Reply to this post with your results
Matt

Ok, first thing: Generally, you can't print decent B&W on colour printers.
(EDIT: And some printers are a lot worse at it than others )

Why?

Several reasons. Remember how inkjet printers work. They have only 4 colours (or 6) and the colours are either "on" or "off". If you want a shade in between, the printer has to dither to make it appear like a shade when held at a distance.

Now, when it comes to B&W, the printers have only black. That's full black or nothing. So, to get the shades they dither - but usually they dither with the colours as well

Even if you get a half decent B&W print it will normally suffer from metermerism where the apparent colour changes according to the ambient lighting (so it may look fine in daylight, but not in fluorescent etc).


There are a couple of ways around it:
1) Get a set of B&W inks. These replace the colours on the printer and provide shades of grey. These shouldn't suffer from metermerism (given a decent ink).

2) Use a newer printer. Some of the newer models include "Light Black" and can print half decent B&W images. Think there's an Epson or two that can do this.

Alternatively you can send your prints out to be printed

Matt

Well, that's a relief

Let's hope they're true to their word
I'd like to be able to buy the new DA* lenses when I can eventually afford them

Matt

I thought "Coat" vs "No Coat" would've been understood

Peter, I don't mind you getting your credit card out and sending the Samsung lens to me to check out
Matt

Amazingly they have
But it took a while...

And I agree about the after sales support
Matt