Depends partly on the RAW converter... the trouble is the more you have to push, the more "mud" you rake up in terms of noise. Most converters have at least 2 stops of adjustment (Silkypix has 3) and then you can always use the curves tool or levels tool in the converter to pull some more!

Probably the darkest thing I did was at the JazzCafe - and that was a nightmare! ISO3200, fully manual, and had to push at least 2 stops The result was noisy, but was the only way to deal with the hotspots of the lights.

A monopod is a definitely good idea in this circumstance and will probably give you a stop or two further... but if the Tv is too slow you'll see movement in the people, unless they're absolutely still.

Failing that you'll need something like the FA*85/1.4
Matt

I seem to remember seeing the specs and the cell diagram for both - and they were obviously the same base design.
Outer case build is different, and coating.

Have to agree that the Tokina website sample photos could've shown some better class images
Matt

No probs Chris

I will add as a postscript... having tried to look at a Canon USM lens , I'm much more comfortable having a go at a Pentax lens

Oh, and while I'm at it too... some lenses you really need to be careful with. For example, the SMC-FA 24-90 has a comment in the service manual to the effect that you shouldn't attempt disassembly of one of the lens groups because serious adjustment would be needed.

And in future, I'll make sure I ask Pentax for a "Service Parts List" (it'll be a document starting with "PL", e.g. "PL41430" = SMC-FA 24-90) rather than mentioning that I wanted to disassemble the lens myself. It confused them no end

Matt

Cheeky
(Made me laugh though )


Kim - no probs
Matt

LOL! Only took me a year or more to work it out
Finally got fed up waiting for others and decided to suss it out myself
Should've done that in the first place
Matt

Here's a quick gallery of the steps:
http://www.pbase.com/mattmatic/smcpfa80320

Kim - feel free to download and PDF if you want
Hope this helps!

As usual: absolutely no responsibility is taken or assumed. You use this information at your peril
(But it got my lens back in working order )
Matt

Kim,
To do complete images, I'd have to take it apart again... which isn't a big deal

I used some CCD cleaning fluid as my Eclipse fluid wasn't at home at the time. Needed a nice soft cloth (used a Lee filter cloth) and it polished up very nicely indeed. In fact, when assembled there's absolutely no evidence there was any fungus at all.

Might disassemble, photograph, and clean again with Eclipse to make sure.

It was surprisingly easy to do though
Matt

Tried to get Pentax UK to give me a diagram... gave up in the end

Had a little time this morning, as well as a small brainwave about how the lens fits together... and managed to repair the 80-320mm

Hint: underneath the rubber focus ring are three screws that remove a collar. Underneath that collar will appear three more screws that hold, with the aid of little metal clamps, the front barrel. You'll only see them when at 320mm and at the closest focus distance. (These clamps set the infinity focus point, BTW) Removing these screws enabled the front barrel to be removed, and having loosened L1 with a lens spanner you can push out L2+L3 from the rear (ie out through the front). A hard clean with some cleaning fluid and a soft lens cloth and the fungus is gone. In fact, almost completely! There were only a few tiny marks that are visible if you breath on the element.

All looks good - so I'll give it a run over the next few weeks to check it over.

If anyone has anything similar, and the descriptions are not enough, then I could possibly rustle up a few images...

Matt

Does anyone have a PDF of the disassembly diagram for the SMC-FA 80-320?
Mine has fungus and I don't think it's worth sending off for repair (unless it's around £30 all in).

Failing that I'll contact Pentax UK.

Thanks!
Matt

I meant 402xINCH size in PIXELS
So, a 10 inch length should be exactly 4020 pixels.
This is only for Pro AM Imaging who send the file directly to the print device without any intermediate messing around (ie no resizing, no colour changes, no colour space conversion) - that's why you have to do all the work up front
Matt