Interesting to see you have the Tokina ATX242
I bought one ages ago from SRS for my Z1 - it was sharp as a pin. Got the *ist-D and it was always disappointing. I surmised it must be poorly collimated for digital. Ended up selling it on ebay and only one bidder - they got a bargain
I've often wondered what it would be like on other sensors (including the K20D where the sensors are closer to the surface apparently).

Matt

Lilly - read my sticky thread HERE.

It may help to upgrade the firmware.
However, as far as I can tell, P-TTL aims to keep the highlights exposed correctly. But DO read the whole thread.

There may be more to it... but I've been puzzling over P-TTL since the *ist-D was first released

Matt

Hee hee! PDP-8 - http://www.old-computers.com/museum/computer.asp?st=1&c=780

[wistful]
There's a certain sense of ingenuity that's born out of working with such constrained hardware and software. I often feel that these "devious" skills are being lost to the bloat-ware of today
[/wistful]

Matt

Just to add... the little accessory I bought from Brian came very quickly too. Very helpful It'll be interesting to see how things progress - so it'll be good for Brian to stick around

(I've heard that Nikonians often have beards and sandles... are you there already? )

Matt

Great! Eventually it will become second nature - I can't live without that mode now!

Let us know how you get on
Matt

If you can't get anything sorted with the Samsung - I'd be interested for parts

Let me know by PM what you want
Matt

Rubbish. Only SOME of the digital lenses are incompatible with full frame. So you need to get your facts straight

I've even used the SMC DA 16-45 on the Z1 and the SMC DA 12-24 on the MZ10 film cameras!!!

So what? Buy yourself an *ist-D or *ist-DS and stop complaining
You can, if you want, still use "A" mode and "M" mode on the flash. No problem - I used it for years on film, and I can use the same on digital. No problems.




LOL @ Don.
I remember hand assembling code for a single board SC/MP computer that had a calculator LED display. That was fun Then we had a run of TRS-80 machines, and a couple of Ataris later
I certainly do NOT miss tape drive loading!!
EDIT: It was the MK14 from Sinclar/Cambridge - http://www.old-computers.com/museum/computer.asp?c=961

Matt

Lilly - it's likely you didn't push the gun all the way onto the hot shoe.
I've done it several times

Power switch:
* OFF
* ON - WIRELESS
* ON
(it's in the manual!)

When attached to the hotshoe it doesn't matter which "ON" you use - the camera overrides it. When trying to fire it remotely from the K10D pop-up flash you will need to use the middle setting.
(Plus you'll need to check the Slave Mode setting on the AF360. See my sticky note )

Matt

Kris,
First, check that the AF360 is in the correct slave mode. There are two
There's "dumb" slave where the flash will do "M" and "A" only, and intelligent slave where the flash does full P-TTL. (It's the setting for the MZ-S that's in the AF360 manual).

From what you say it sounds like the flash may be on dumb mode and triggering on both preflash and main (If the flash completely discharges on the preflash then it will have no power left for the main flash).

Secondly, you can trigger an old flash with the K10D. However, I would suggest using a plastic hotshoe-to-PC cord adapter. Some of the metal ones short out the extra contacts on the camera and get it confused

Another possibility is to get a cheap AF160 (old style tiny gun) or one of the older AF units that had manual adjustment and use this as a trigger and fill in, while using a dumb flash cube slave on the remote.

Still, you should be able to get the remote P-TTL working nicely.
If you are triggering from the K10D popup, there is a custom menu option that disables the flash when in wireless mode. (Note: you have to have firmware later than 1.0 in the K10D so you can select the flash mode "W" from the Fn menu too!).

Hope that helps!
Matt

It could be a cap problem... but...
The P-TTL flsah guns are massively more complex than the older guns! Because the gun has to fire rapidly for the preflash + main flash there is some serious control circuitry in there.

And there's the usual problems with fiddling with flashguns - they can be lethal!

If it's out of warranty, then you might try and ring Asahi Photo. They have the ability to repair the Pentax gear - they'll probably know if the innards are the same on the Samsung

You could also try switching to "A" mode on the flash:
* Turn camera to "M" mode
* 1/180s or slower, set a sensible ISO (depending on ambient light)
* Try aperture of around f/5.6 to f/11
* Press the mode button on the flash until it says "A"
* Try taking a shot

The "A" mode on the flash works in the old-fashioned way. The flash fires one shot and measures the reflected light through its own sensor (rather than TTL).

Note that the flash should load the correct aperture and ISO settings when you enter the "A" mode, but the settings are not "linked". If you adjust the ISO on the body while the flash is on "A" then you have to manually copy the adjustment to the flash (or switch between P-TTL and A mode to reload).

"A" mode flash for weddings isn't that scary - after all, that's what we did before digital and it worked!


Matt