Mike,
Assuming you are talking about a dSLR and the AF400FTZ, then since you can only use "A" or "M" on the flash then a simple "PC" cord will do the job.

Often camera shops will have a bucket full of them for next to nothing
You will need the hotshoe adapter (I got one thrown into an ebay camera kit I bought and sold the parts on), and one for the flash - but these are easy enough to come by. Hama make modern versions of them.

e.g. Camera hotshoe adapter
5m PC lead
(Can't find the PC-to-flash adapter at the moment)

There's also this (but may be for studio flash units only - not sure).

Hope that helps!
Matt

For batch renaming I find "Rename-It!" is very useful (on the PC):
http://sourceforge.net/projects/renameit/
(Think that's the correct link)

Well a matters a little
To expand on this point... it is correct that the colourspace does NOT affect the RAW data. However, the JPG image that is embedded inside the RAW file is affected - both by the colourspace and the JPG resolution and quality.
You see you can shoot RAW and still extract the camera's JPG directly from the RAW file as an alternative to RAW+JPG (which JPG is also affected).

Just being nit-picking

It is also worth noting that the EXIF information in the RAW (and JPG) contains the camera model and serial number. The PhotoME EXIF viewer will show that. Not sure what applications can read and sort by that EXIF tag...

HTH!
Matt

When I fixed my SMC-FA 80-320 (which is autofocus BTW) I had to calibrate it to achieve infinity focus.
Most lenses have an adjustment somewhere that provides for infinity focus.

However, that said, some lenses were not designed for infinity. The SMC-FA 85/1.4 is, I believe, one such lens - designed specifically for portraiture it doesn't stand up too well for infinity.

The other question is - do you have any Pentax autofocus lenses (like the kit lens)? Can you check the infinity focus with them?

There's nothing you can adjust yourself on the camera that will fix this. It's most likely a lens problem. However, there's a very slim chance that the CCD on the camera has been adjusted incorrectly, making the camera slightly myopic. A visit to a Pentax service centre could sort that out...
(But check the kit lens first )

Matt

Cool
Thanks for letting us know

As far as I can see the S10 uses the DiVX codec.
Download from here:
http://www.divx.com/divx/windows/
(You won't need the DiVX Pro codec... just the normal free one )

HTH!
Matt

Peter, it's definitely in PEF format. It's under the "Manufacturer's Notes" section. About half way down the section you should find the "SR Result" information and underneath that the "Shutter Count"

(Other interesting fields: "Camera Temperature", the Lens ID & name, "Manufacture Date", "Camera has been serviced?", and "Internal Serial Number?" ) Pentax have really packed in the information into the EXIF - much more than Canon do

Mike: Not sure that it matters - if Chris is offering 2 year warranty, and the shutters are spec'd to 100k actuations then I don't think you have a real problem. At that price it's too good to miss

Matt

Which shot counter??
There's an internal shot counter (which is visible in the EXIF through PhotoME) and the shot counter that you can manually reset yourself - the one that numbers the images you take.

What's your concern Mike?
Matt

Oops! Shouldn't rush so much Those shots were taken in under 5 minutes...

Just an added thought - even after doing tweaks with this setup I found that a real person was more helpful once adjusted in the right region. I did find that I needed a point or two adjustment when using the focus-on-eyes-and-shoot.

But it should give the gist
HTH!
Matt

Ok, ok!
Here: http://www.pbase.com/mattmatic/focustest

This was just a quick setup. You should use a tripod, shoot wide open, etc, etc

But this was at least interesting in showing whether the focus field is flat or not

Hope that helps!
Matt

Welcome to the forum Kate

Have you tried using AF? Personally I like "auto focus on demand" that the Pentax offers. In the custom menu you can disable the "auto-focus-on-half-press" and then just use the "AF" button on the back. Normally I have the focus point switched to centre only - point the middle to the person's eye and press AF - then reframe and shoot. This approach means I have faster shoot times in low light, and for formal portraits I only have to focus once (as long as I and the subject don't move).

When shooting wide open on APS-C digital the focus can be extremely critical. Fortunately the K20D has the ability to adjust focus for each lens you have - I went through my set and fine tuned them all (all fractionally different) and get absolutely razor sharp images.

My back/front focussing test goes like this (and will help you):
1) Get a Lego base board (or something with regular, repeating patterns)
2) Put the board flat on a table, about 1 or 2m away
3) I used another Lego piece mounted vertically in the middle of the board (ie perpendicular to the base) that has some nice contrast to focus on.
4) Focus on the vertical piece, with the camera pointing slightly downwards (ie not exactly level, but a couple of degrees down).
5) Use Autofocus!! You are testing the camera's ability to focus on the item - not your eye's ability.

When you examine the shot the following will help:
1) If the vertical piece is precisely in focus that will be obvious
2) If the camera is front focussing then the pattern on the base board will be sharper just in front of the vertical piece
3) If the camera is back focussing then the pattern on the base board will be sharper just behind the vertical piece.

Newspaper isn't very helpful to be honest as you cannot be 100% sure where the camera has focussed. Only with a simple setup can you be sure that the camera has focussed on a single point.

If you need it, I can post a couple of images showing the kind of setup I describe

Let us know what you find
Matt