(Moderator Note: split from this thread )

SPB: I bow to your superior capabilities. Fact is, 'most' users can go into PC World or CompUSA and buy all the bits they need to build a PC to run Microsoft's Windows O/S. Few would even contemplate building a LINUX or MAC machine and stand much chance of editing their first photo within a reasonable time.

I do admit to a certain bias towards Microsoft products. They've made me a lot of money over the years as I build, sell, and maintain servers and workstations based on their products. That said, I only deal seriously with corporate users who know better than to download and try freeware from the 'net because they appreciate the damage that their business can suffer. None of my customers however is in the graphics business.[/url]

Don't beat yourself up Drew. Old chinese proverb say "Man who never made a mistake . . . probably never made anything".

The cable release for the MZ6 is the same stereo jack type as the Pentax DSLR's use, the CS-205.

Cheers,

The lake shot is stunning John. I like the depth of focus that is achievable with this lens for landscapes. Mine hasn't had much of an outing yet . . . but it will after September when I complete my move to Spain. Sadly the only lakes anywhere near to my house (about an hour's drive) are salt lakes and need a long'ish telephoto/zoom to catch the flamingoes . . .

It is a great lens and I'm glad I chose it over the 10-17mm.

Interesting question, and oddly enough the Nikon D200 has the same sized sensor, and that's not likely to be Samsung made. With the Pentax/Samsung partnership, the K10D may well have a Samsung sensor. They definitely have the capability to produce exceptionally good electronic products, but components? I'm not sure.

Pentax are really not releasing any info at the moment.

The one on the right is the flash I would go for; the AF400FTZ. The one on the left is a professional/semi-professional flash which is heavy, very powerful and primarily designed for Pentax medium format cameras (645 etc). That said, the AF400T will work well with the istD but I think the AF400FTZ is more likely to be more useful to you and will be much cheaper to buy in used condition.

JC,

Matt has said it all really. If you don't know, ask. If you never ask, you may never know ! ! ! We are a friendly bunch here and most of us welcome the opportunity to help other 'not so knowledgeable' Pentax users to get the best from their equipment.

Personally, I agree with Matt, that you ought maybe to be looking for a good used 'gun' (taken from the term flashgun - as they are sometimes called), Pentax made, probably the AF400FTZ will suit all of your immediate needs.

It might help us make a more qualified suggestion if we knew how much you are able to spend?

In my opinion you will need to spend a minimum of £30 (GBP) to get a decent used Pentax flash unit (AF280T or AF400FTZ). You will spend £200 for the AF360FGZ, £250 - £300 for the AF500FTZ in used condition, and more for a new AF540FGZ.

Have a look at various local camera stores in your area for used Pentax flash units. Then check ebay prices, ask the right questions of the seller, then decide.

But beware, ignore our advice at your peril. Do you really want to buy a no-name flash unit for a few pounds, dollars, euro etc. and potentially destroy a camera worth many times more than the amount you think you might save ? (there is only one sensible answer).

I'm happy to reply, as will others if they disagree with me, or can add anything further That's what this forum is all about.

My personal opinion . . . "DON'T TOUCH IT".

It is entirely possible that the flash might work. I believe that Pentax cameras can tolerate up to 300V trigger voltage (The voltage that is actually at the contacts that the camera has to cope with).

My advice:- Have a look at some of the cheaper Pentax units that will afford you the same functionality. I sold an AF280T (bounce, swivel, TTL) flash unit with a GN of 28 for £30.00. It is an exceptionally fine flash and will give you good results with the D. The AF400FTZ is also a good flash unit which also offers focussing assist (Infrared lightsource) in dimly lit conditions and has a GN of 40. These are all available at reasonable used prices on ebay. The one question you should ALWAYS ask about used flash units:- "Is there any evidence of corrosion in the battery compartment?" It will be up to you then to decide the level of contamination and whether you want to purchase it. You should also ask about cracked or damaged body/battery cover components.

Others will correct me if I'm wrong but I think the 2 flashes above can be used in 'proper' TTL mode on the istD whereas they fire at full power (I think) on the later models. You will only get P-TTL (pre-flash TTL) by using the AF360FGZ or the super new AF540FGZ.

Bottom line is, buy the best you can afford or wait until you can afford the best (something like that anyway). I would certainly not jeapordise my treasured Pentax DSLR's with a 'no-name' flash that has the potential to destroy the camera. I will now only use Pentax made flashes on my 3 X istD's and istDS. I now use 2 X AF360FGZ and 1 X AF500FTZ with excellent results (well I'm happy with them anyway). I've tried Centon & Vivitar but (IMO) the Pentax guns are far superior, even the older ones.

Good luck.

A critical piece of information is missing. That is, is it a Pentax dedicated gun. If not, it may not work with any Pentax camera, not just the istD.

If it is a third party unit (Vivitar, Centon etc), the 'head' remains the same irrespective of whether it is fitted to Minolta, Canon, Nikon, Pentax etc. However, the lower part (the bit that fits to the hot shoe of the camera) is commonly referred to as a 'dedication module' which generally makes it more or less unique to one camera manufacturer. This dedication module will often have a P, C, N, or M to indicate which manufacturers cameras that it will work with.

I'd say that was a fairly decent price. Don't forget it'll come out to about 75mm on a Pentax DSLR.

We need a bit more info.

Does the lens have an 'A' setting on its aperture ring ?

If yes, set it to 'A' and use the lens normally in manual focus, setting aperture on the camera body.

If no 'A' setting, set the mode dial to Manual and use the DOF preview switch to turn on metering and facilitate exposure measurement/setting.

You can also use Aperture priority mode but the shot is always taken with the lens wide open.